Uphillphil

New Member
Hi
My drag link isn't so straight any more!!!!
Before I change it, are there any tips I need to know about????

Many Thanks
 
Nothing special really, normally you would try and match the length of the old one but as yours is already bent that is mute!!

Try and measure with a tape measure to get the right length and make sure you get the tracking done after.
 
Nothing special really, normally you would try and match the length of the old one but as yours is already bent that is mute!!

Try and measure with a tape measure to get the right length and make sure you get the tracking done after.

Thanks for the advice. I have just tried to order the drag link, and they were a bit uncertain which piece it was. Is it also known as a tracking rod??

How difficult is it disconnecting and then re-connecting the joints???
 
I don't have the landrover tool LRT-57-018 to help take off the drag link ball joints.
Can anyone recommend an alternative way of doing this??
 
is it the long one that goes behind the front axle between each wheel hub or the one from the steering box to the hub?

if its the track rod (the long one between both wheels) just give the end of the housing that holds the TRE into the hub a bloody good smack with a BFH (large impact device) on the casting this will release the TRE tapered shaft and it should just pop out, if its the the drag link, i used the same technique and it worked fine, some say to use two hammers and hit either side of the casting at the same time, i just used one really big one and it worked. all you need to do is release the pressure from the taper fit and it lifts out easily, are you replacing the TREs at the same time? you may aswell if you werent planning on it, do it, its pointless just doing the rod as you will need the tracking doing again after doing the TREs in the future.remember lots of coppaslip when you are putting it back together for future ease of removal.
 
No need for a special tool as such, just a ball joint splitter

Draper 13914 19mm Capacity Ball Joint Separator Part No: N140#

never used a splitter in my life, never needed to, just give em a crack with the BFH, if they are reluctant to come out and you are replacing them anyway wind the nut back on a bit so its level with the end of the stud and crack that with self same BFH, its only a case of releasing the taper then they just slide out.
 
its better to hit the the arm near to where joint goes through ,a good hit with a decent sized hammer will let ball joint pop out without damage to joint or gaiter or arm ,when setting up drag link ,put a pin through rear of drop arm into bottom of pas box ,this centralises box ,(which is position steering should be set from )if no pin location count turns from locl to lock and set in the middlem,steering wheel should be in correct position once box centralised if not either remove wheel and set right or set by removing and refitting steering ujs going to box from column, you can the set road wheels with drag link dont tighten rod clamps till youve road tested and are sure road wheels line up with steering wheel
 

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