As far as removal & reinstallation of the dizzy is concerned the teeth of the drive gear on the camshaft that engage with & drive the dizzy shaft are cut at an angle so as you pull the dizzy out the dizzy shaft will rotate. This needs to be taken into account when refitting or the rotor arm will be out of position.
It's also very easy to get it a tooth or two out. It will pop & fart but not run. Guess how I know.
Both No1 valves need to be rocking & No1 piston needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke.
Best done by removing the rocker cover & No1 plug. Use a long rod in the plughole to determine when the piston is at TDC.
Mark the position of No1 lead on the dizzy body with tippex or a dot of white paint.
Align the rotor arm with this dot and then rotate the arm & shaft approx 30 deg anticlockwise as viewed from above.
Refit the dizzy & watch to see that as you do the rotor arm turns clockwise & aligns with the dot.
Have you at any point during this operation removed the rotor arm?
And if you have, when you have refitted the dizzy to the engine did you check the rotor arm movement?
By that I mean you need to turn the rotor arm with your fingers until it stops. When released it should spring smartly back to its original position. If it doesn't & just stays where you left it then you've disconnected the auto advance/retard mech weights in the bowl of the dizzy from their springs & again, it may pop & fart but it won't run.