It may be my imagination but have Marsland chassis gone up in price during lockdown? May have to look at Richards.
 
Any recommendations as to where to get a chassis in the West Mids? It would be nice to go and have a look and see.
 
Just spoke to a lovely chap at Terraintech who do Marsland and Shielder so has no bias. He reckons the Shielder at £2k are fine for most purposes snd the Marsland at £2.5k better if doing shows etc. A valid point he made that and body of 30+ yrs old may need some fettling to fit regardless.
Would forum members concur?
 
I paid 3k for my 300Tdi 90 marshland chassis and it was very well finished except for the weld spatter!
That was from kdl
 
Thanks. I will pop down to Craddocks later and just see what their prices are. It’s a trek from me to Devon but if it’s a good saving then prob worth it. the only reviews on Shielder chassis seem to be older ones. Maybe they have improved
 
Hi you potential Shielder purchasers.... Be Warned many out-lets are selling Shielder produced bulkheads... some at high prices. I have experienced the Shielder bulkhead and I would not buy from them ever again.... the amount of work to get a Series 3 galvy bulkhead to fit can play a big part in one's health...! the finish is very poor, per-drilled/marked holes are out - some impossible to correct without weld intervention... appreciate its galvanised but distortions it comes with is a joke... yes, it is an aftermarket kit but short-cuts in general build quality - Don't help anyone. Even folk in North America have a hard time revamping aspects of Shielder bulkheads to fit.
 
Re the axles - I'd say don't worry about them now, it's something you can always retro fit. Disc brakes are definitely an advantage if you off road a lot, but the original set up works very well if kept in good nick. If you commit to a new chassis it's an opportunity to rebuild the vehicle, the ideal time to really sort out any elderly electrical and mechanical gremlins. I ended up with new springs/shocks/bushes/brake pipes - she drove like a new vehicle afterwards and 6 years later is still a much improved drive.
It's also so much nicer to work on when you're not fighting against rusty fastners all the time.
 
Some would say quite the opposite. Drums protect the works from crud better.
Let's not get into that old chestnut LOL! All I will say is that in my experience after wading drums can take a while to dry out. You need to be prepared for this when approaching a junction a couple of miles down the road!
 
Don't really understand that bit. Are you suggesting that North Americans are better at sorting out a bulkhead than Europeans?

I imagine @Western Slope Rover would agree, but that opinion may not find favour with the Brits! :D
Hi, its just my own observations - e.g. removing loads of weld splatter thus get a good finish/fit en retreating naked metal, which negates the galv' finish/ post dip twists etc. No but they (North American Overland) do spend some time resolving issues with Shielder bulkheads, before fitting - have a look at some of their videos, so likely more experienced and know what to expect than the average re-builder...!
 
Hi, its just my own observations - e.g. removing loads of weld splatter thus get a good finish/fit en retreating naked metal, which negates the galv' finish/ post dip twists etc. No but they (North American Overland) do spend some time resolving issues with Shielder bulkheads, before fitting - have a look at some of their videos, so likely more experienced and know what to expect than the average re-builder...!
It was a joke, really., there is a bit of UK/US banter on the forum.

I don't watch videos of people repairing cars, I have a life.
 

Similar threads