berg450
Well-Known Member
Have you used it for OEM filters like Mahle, Bosch or Mann? For me it never fit.
The top one on the picture is for probably for OEMs (but even in the outside diam of filter can be slight diff. which can be a problem of using such spanner) and the bottom one for genuine.
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NPG
Well-Known Member
Mine, which is a BP, is like the bottom one, with pointed grips instead of flat contacts. And I did end up filing the grips a little bit so I can use it on various filter brands. Given the location of the oil filter on the TD5, it holds the filter at a slight angle but there is enough grip to start it moving.
For the fuel filter, which is always a pain to remove, I use a 3 jaw wrench similar to this one -
Attachments
Intestinalworm
Well-Known Member
Maybe the other vehicles I have are unusual, but I find the filter changes on a Disco 2 are easier than any of the other vehicles I have owned/currently own. I can fairly easily remove the 2 x oil, fuel and air filter on the Disco 2 all by hand (except centrifugal which obviously requires a ratchet, extension and socket to remove the cover) and replace by hand in a short time - remove all four and replace in 30 minutes, and I'm a definite newbie DIY mechanic.
In recent years I have always done my own servicing, and I guess like anything else you get better at it the more often you do it. I tighten, so I don't over-tighten - comes off easily next oil change!
Like the ides of the screwdriver through the old filter if it doesn't budge!
In recent years I have always done my own servicing, and I guess like anything else you get better at it the more often you do it. I tighten, so I don't over-tighten - comes off easily next oil change!
Like the ides of the screwdriver through the old filter if it doesn't budge!
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I have one of these, which I use very rarely,
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/am-t...MI-ue91M6U7gIVsuHmCh248ANaEAQYFiABEgJlb_D_BwE
But more recently one of these.
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d0...MIuOvikM-U7gIVGofVCh0jfwP0EAQYDSABEgKkdvD_BwE
but as I said, i never ever need to use either of these more than once, as I then replace it properly.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/am-t...MI-ue91M6U7gIVsuHmCh248ANaEAQYFiABEgJlb_D_BwE
But more recently one of these.
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d0...MIuOvikM-U7gIVGofVCh0jfwP0EAQYDSABEgKkdvD_BwE
but as I said, i never ever need to use either of these more than once, as I then replace it properly.
Intestinalworm
Well-Known Member
Agree, not difficult to loosen/remove cartridge filter by hand and replace by hand - just need to have a cool engine! Never had any issues with leaks! Only issue is if someone else puts it on they may over-tighten with a clamp - that's when your troubles begin!
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Quite, which is why I have done my own maintenance since 1973!
Intestinalworm
Well-Known Member
Agree! Had new tyres put on several years ago at one of those rapid tyre change places - young kids going mad with pneumatic rattle guns! Anyway, got home and I had a flat tyre! Tried everything - couldn't get the wheel off!!! Called the Auto Club would you believe - he couldn't get the wheel off either!!! Had to have vehicle towed to a workshop on a flat bed truck to change the tyre!!!
Never again! When I get new tyres I talk to whoever is doing the job first and watch him like a hawk!
Never again! When I get new tyres I talk to whoever is doing the job first and watch him like a hawk!
Did you READ the first post?
meego
Well-Known Member
I did and seen the photo.Did you READ the first post?
Si Click
Well-Known Member
Unless you have aircon and the PO stripped the threads on the centrifugal filter housing and secured it with nuts underneath........then it becomes really tricky.
Question is - do I leave as is and just put up with it, do I re-tap to a wider thread, or do I bite the bullet and replace the housing? If the latter, anyone know a good source?
Quite simply I could not believe that a guy who is happy to remove a turbo could possibly think that getting to a simple service item like an oil filter could possibly be so difficult.I did and seen the photo.
Even people who do very little on their cars, usually can do an oil and filter change.
I know what JM's answer to this is cos he's already posted it. Helicoils. But as you have to drill it out to put helicoils in, you might as well just do as you say re the wider thread. Then use Coppaslip to make sure the thread doesn't strip again.Unless you have aircon and the PO stripped the threads on the centrifugal filter housing and secured it with nuts underneath........then it becomes really tricky.
Question is - do I leave as is and just put up with it, do I re-tap to a wider thread, or do I bite the bullet and replace the housing? If the latter, anyone know a good source?
Of the two bolts, I have one where the thread is OK and another where it is a bit dodgy. for the moment I am living with it.
But if it got worse I think I'd try the nut on the end of a longer bolt method first, maybe securing it with liquid metal.
I too have aircon.
Any second hand housing would probably have the same problem.
So yes, it is a dilemma!
Si Click
Well-Known Member
That is an interesting idea, I had not considered fixing the nut in place.
Is this the stuff you mean?Sealey SCS380 Quick-Set Liquid Metal
Probably, I haven't Googled it, but i have used JB Weld to mend the special clips or whatever they are called which are used together with bolts to hold the auto box sump on. Just a smear did the job . There was no other way of sourcing spares. My local Motabitz has some other stuff which looks amazing and i may use it to make new bits to fix Wifeys's electric window mechanism to replace the cr@p plastic bits that always break. The only important thing is to get the two surfaces really clean and a bit rough. Id get the housing etc off, clean the whole thing up sand or file the area around where the nut would sit and do the same to the side of the nut that would be stuck to the housing. Clean it up again. Find a long enough bolt, on the end of the it, to stop the JB weld accidentally sticking the nut to the bolt, put a git of grease or Coppaslip . Then mix up and smearthe JB Weld on the housing where the nut will be touching. Before putting the whole thing together until the JB weld goes off. It doesn't take long. Be aware , i haven't yet needed to do this, but it would be how i'd do it. But there is still the possibility of drilling out and threading the holes to accomodate a bigger bolt, as mentioned earlier, which would be neater, maybe.That is an interesting idea, I had not considered fixing the nut in place.
Sealey SCS380 Quick-Set Liquid Metal
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PopPops
Well-Known Member
The PO of my truck stripped the threads too. I had thought, at the next oil/filter change, to "glue" (JB Weld or whatever) an M6 stud into the housing and use a nut, nylock maybe, on top.I know what JM's answer to this is cos he's already posted it. Helicoils. But as you have to drill it out to put helicoils in, you might as well just do as you say re the wider thread. Then use Coppaslip to make sure the thread doesn't strip again.
Of the two bolts, I have one where the thread is OK and another where it is a bit dodgy. for the moment I am living with it.
But if it got worse I think I'd try the nut on the end of a longer bolt method first, maybe securing it with liquid metal.
I too have aircon.
Any second hand housing would probably have the same problem.
So yes, it is a dilemma!
PP
Si Click
Well-Known Member
Combining Stanleysteamer's original idea and PopPop's development, I guess the easy way to do this will be to invert the existing bolt and JBWeld it to the bottom part of the housing pointing upwards. Then I just use an appropriate nut on top of the housing. I'm more likely to get a decent secure "weld" and there is no longer any risk of stripping the thread. Not a pretty solution, but practical.
As i have not needed to do it yet, I hope the existing bolt is long enough, but if it ain't getting a longer one shouldn't be difficult.Combining Stanleysteamer's original idea and PopPop's development, I guess the easy way to do this will be to invert the existing bolt and JBWeld it to the bottom part of the housing pointing upwards. Then I just use an appropriate nut on top of the housing. I'm more likely to get a decent secure "weld" and there is no longer any risk of stripping the thread. Not a pretty solution, but practical.
If it is long enough to protrude under the bottom of the housing that might be why they are so prone to stripping their threads, if the protruding threads get a bit of. rust and/or cak on them, they won't do the threads in the housing any good when wound out.. Design fault.
But I'm not convinced, will have to feel under the housing, as the actress said!
Anyway, nice to have been able to rethink this and I too can see that PP's idea is prolly better! just needs some nice cap nuts, or at least flanged!
