I took the flywheel off today and my main crank seal had silicone all over the outer seal, the oil leak was leaking from the oil pan tho thru the seal under the main crank seal

anyone know where i can get this oil pain seal/gasket and am i able to replace this gasket last once i have all the engine together again? i see the lip of the oil pan locks up into the flywheel housing area will this cause any drama's?
 
Alibro said:
Sounds like LR dealers sticking the arm in just because they can. The engines in MG cars were identical in most ways to the ones in Freelanders.
I think some folk suggested the MG injectors gave better performance but GG could probably advise better. There are a few threads here were folk have upgraded L series engines to around 140hp from the standard 90 odd for almost no money.
Click to expand...
Do u have a link for the upgrades?
 
WildOne said:
the oil leak was leaking from the oil pan tho thru the seal under the main crank seal
Click to expand...
There is sealant applied to the area below the oil seals, both ends of the engine.
WildOne said:
i see the lip of the oil pan locks up into the flywheel housing area will this cause any drama's
Click to expand...
It's easier to do while the gearbox is off.;)

Also make sure that the gasket is at fault, and not the oil cooler pipes, which are a known failure here.

WildOne said:
anyone know where i can get this oil pain seal/gasket
Click to expand...
DMGRS are the main supplier of such items at sensible prices.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/l-series-oil-sump-gasket-200-400-600-25-45-zr-zs-err7029
 
Thanks mate i will check the link now, the gasket failed as it was sticking out on the cabin side of the lower crankcase seal housing

This car must have been absolutely chewing the oil with the gaping gap it had from broken gasket
 
Thanks Ali and other members who are helping with the links to parts i really appreciate it

I have a different turbo on my car its a Garret Turbo anyone know how to work out how much hp it produces?

I also had a question about the turbo, when me and my cousin were pulling the engine apart i undone 3 of 4 turbo bolts that bolt the aluminium to steel housing will there be a gasket here i need to replace? Can supply a picture tomorrow
 
Still waiting for the bolts from Rimmer Bro's i think this will be my last order with them been 2 weeks my order from the other shop was here over a week ago
 
bolts showed up late but i got them, we have the gearbox on and most bolts in now we are stuck with the IRD box it just won't go in is there a trick?
 
Thanks to everyone who helped me in this thread the land rover is 95% back together now just need to change the oil pan gasket, bolt on the front cross rock guard and add the oils

The old clutch was tough and oddly as u pressed on it now the clutch is silky smooth and easy to press

Thanks heaps guys i wouldnt have been able to work out the mamoth of a job our selves everyones advice was well put to work
 
WildOne said:
Thanks to everyone who helped me in this thread the land rover is 95% back together now just need to change the oil pan gasket, bolt on the front cross rock guard and add the oils

The old clutch was tough and oddly as u pressed on it now the clutch is silky smooth and easy to press

Thanks heaps guys i wouldnt have been able to work out the mamoth of a job our selves everyones advice was well put to work
Click to expand...
Hopefully it will be fine now but don't be surprised if the clutch bite point ends up on the floor, it's quite common after jobs like this. There are a couple of bodges you can try if this happens.
 
Thanks Ali

Can someone tell me the oil capacity's for the engine, gearbox, ird and radiator and do i need to bleed the radiator?
 
Japanese cars are so easy to work on i have grown to know them well if one part is broken u have access to that one part with the land rover u need t unbolt 10 parts to take off the broken part i guess i went in head first kind of dived in but we are done it was a big job

Problems we ran into were the gearbox was binding on the clutch and wouldnt fit back on so that came off second go it went strait on

The ird transfer box was being supported by a floor jack i found the best way to put that back in was physically man handle it and lift it into place once in it holds in than can be bolted down

Those were the only problems we had
 
WildOne said:
Japanese cars are so easy to work on i have grown to know them well if one part is broken u have access to that one part with the land rover u need t unbolt 10 parts to take off the broken part i guess i went in head first kind of dived in but we are done it was a big job
Click to expand...

I don't see how a Japanese car is any different to work on compared to a Freelander, especially something like a Honda CRV, which has many striking similarities to the Freelander layout. The Freelander gearbox is in fact a modified Honda designed box anyway, which is a hangover from when Honda and Rover were in partnership. A clutch is a clutch, regardless of where the car is built, the Freelander one also coming from Honda.

I just don't see why a Japanese vehicle is any different to work on.

The Freelander has 4WD, so that adds some complication, but it's no more complex than any other 4WD, which uses a transverse engine layout.
 
I have a Nissan Xtrail seemed way easier to do than the Land Rover just a lot less rooting around it was strait forward
 
WildOne said:
I have a Nissan Xtrail seemed way easier to do than the Land Rover just a lot less rooting around it was strait forward
Click to expand...
I had two Xtrails in the past and have to say they were great cars. I had a TPS fail on one and some engine sensor that made the other go into limp mode causing a visit to the dealer but apart from that they were great... if a little boring.
 
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