Just had to do a rather sad thing.....

I had to change my sig pic and move my L322 photo to the end and make it all small.....kinda hit it home all over again!!
I feel for you Ant. You have put so much of yourself into all the work you've done, it must be hard. At least you still have a green oval on the drive and you can be the kindly uncle to all our Range Rovers :)
 
when i had my brake servo done on a recal, they offered the diagnostics for £100 plus vat...
they diagnosed a new turbo at a cost of 3 k , that was excluding labour...
I think yer just had a bad eggsperience. If it had been yer Freelander they would have had more respect and done a propper job.
 
Tie rods and drumsticks ordered and will be here tomorrow. I'll fit them friday. New battery also ordered - should be here tomorrow too, but not sure - they were a bit non-committal on the phone. Seat valence trim arrived, they sent the wrong colour so was sent back this morning. Promised correct colour will be sent tomorrow, should arrive Friday or saturday. I'll fit that as soon as it arrives.

Thought about ordering a passenger cupholder as its broken at the rear screw hole, then figured the broken piece is still in situ with the screw/bolt in the dash. Will investigate later on - its a bit cold out there at the moment. If its there I'll epoxy it back together and screw it back in place. If not, I'll just order one.

I've been asking around local breakers for a centre console cup holder as mine wont retract and one of them said they are expecting an l322 in sometime this week and if I can take it out, I can have it. Can anyone give me an idea of how to do it? I cant see any obvious clips or anything like that, but to be honest, it was just a quick cursory look, not a proper investigation!

Can I get one of those flip fobs for an L322? Even an aftermarket one will do.

The more I drive her, the more I like her. The ride is fantastic and the power is amazing. I feel immensely proud every time I get in her that I've finally managed to get one.
 
Tie rods and drumsticks ordered and will be here tomorrow. I'll fit them friday. New battery also ordered - should be here tomorrow too, but not sure - they were a bit non-committal on the phone. Seat valence trim arrived, they sent the wrong colour so was sent back this morning. Promised correct colour will be sent tomorrow, should arrive Friday or saturday. I'll fit that as soon as it arrives.

Thought about ordering a passenger cupholder as its broken at the rear screw hole, then figured the broken piece is still in situ with the screw/bolt in the dash. Will investigate later on - its a bit cold out there at the moment. If its there I'll epoxy it back together and screw it back in place. If not, I'll just order one.

I've been asking around local breakers for a centre console cup holder as mine wont retract and one of them said they are expecting an l322 in sometime this week and if I can take it out, I can have it. Can anyone give me an idea of how to do it? I cant see any obvious clips or anything like that, but to be honest, it was just a quick cursory look, not a proper investigation!

Can I get one of those flip fobs for an L322? Even an aftermarket one will do.

The more I drive her, the more I like her. The ride is fantastic and the power is amazing. I feel immensely proud every time I get in her that I've finally managed to get one.


is this what u mean ref the key

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROV...128437?hash=item3d32ca5ef5:g:jxoAAOSwa~BYPAtT
 
Now there are the joys of buying an @Saint.V8 maintained vehicle, there's nothing to spend money on except little plastic bits. @Pluribus you are a very lucky man, most of us are too busy fending off the big jobs to be able to think about a switch valance, or a flip fob. Considering you had no idea to begin with ,you have landed on your feet. You must be the one person the RR gods picked for favourite, this year. :D
 
Well there is still the torque converter to do, which I understand is a big job, but I've booked some ramp time at a local makerspace next week so, assuming I get the part before then, that will be done soon too.

Only job after that is add an android system (any recommendations?) and give the leather a good clean. I'm still seriously considering the front end upgrade. Is there a "kit" or do I just buy the later bumper, grill etc separately?
 
Well there is still the torque converter to do, which I understand is a big job, but I've booked some ramp time at a local makerspace next week so, assuming I get the part before then, that will be done soon too.

Only job after that is add an android system (any recommendations?) and give the leather a good clean. I'm still seriously considering the front end upgrade. Is there a "kit" or do I just buy the later bumper, grill etc separately?

may i ask , have u got a link please ref the use of garage ramp lifts please

have also been tempted to do that for my D3 , will be a lot easier than on the drive

thks
 
Hi GStuart - Its a DIY garage in Essex - link is http://u-spanner.co.uk/. Its in Essex, which isnt exactly local to Maidstone, but as I'm in Essex every couple of days, its local enough for me.

thks

bit far as it's southend on sea

wonder if there's one nearer to me

also got to make sure the ramp accepts the weight of the 2.7 ton landy and height as the lift goes up
 
Well there is still the torque converter to do, which I understand is a big job, but I've booked some ramp time at a local makerspace next week so, assuming I get the part before then, that will be done soon too.

Only job after that is add an android system (any recommendations?) and give the leather a good clean. I'm still seriously considering the front end upgrade. Is there a "kit" or do I just buy the later bumper, grill etc separately?
Looking at the how to's , if you're a capable spanner monkey the TC shouldn't be a killer. If I was able, I would done mine but due to the weight involved and other issues, I had to rely on a transmission specialist to do it. Would've been done and home in a day, if it wasn't for the hunt the vibration saga, which is written up elsewhere.
I know it's each to their own but I wouldn't touch the front . However, that is only because I like my vehs original, as I am of the thought, that looked after properly and kept on the road, these vehs will one day be the collectable of their time.The vehs that are collectable today will become rarer and rarer and in 20years the L322 will have collectors who love it. Considering the issues of the early ones, the chances are that they will be hard to get in good, original, condition. However, as I said that's just my thoughts on it.
@gstuart Do you maybe have a friendly indie near you, who would allow you ramp time. Even if they don't do your RR if you know someone who uses them, they might help you out. It's how I get ramp time. I've used the same guy for years and he lets me use floor space or ramp when needed, for either of my vehs. The bonus is , he can't help but help :D ;)
 
I kind of see where you're coming from. I also like my vehicles as original as possible, but in this case, the giant bullbars on the front entailed drilling 4 holes through the bumpers to fit. I'm not really a fan of them, and I've given myself a week to grow into them. It's just not my style. If I'm going to replace the bumpers, I thought I might as well replace them with the later style.
 
I read somewhere (but cant for the life of me remember where) that I can change the headlights for driving abroad using a lever in the car somewhere. Is this right and if so, how do I do this?
 
So I remembered my local Lr specialist was doing free vehicle safety checks for regular customers so I thought why not, getting a second opinion from a more trained eye than mine can never be a bad thing.

I've just got back and I'm quite disheartened with the results. As the mechanic is a mate he went over and above the normal safety checks they do and I have the following things to fix:

All 4 tyres bald on inside edges
Bonnet struts weak
Rear wiper motor inoperative and arm missing (can't believe I didn't spot that myself...)
Water ingress on both rear lamps
Slight oil leak auto box pan
Near side cat breaking up and requires replacing
Excessive play rear hub
Rear bushes worn
Rear break discs corroded and lipped and pads 90% worn
Excessive travel in handbrake - probably needs new break shoes (unseen)
New battery required
Possible torque converted replacement (I knew about this already though)
Passenger door mirror inoperative and just sitting on post

I was expecting some of this, but not all of it. Its going to eat the rest of my budget and more putting it right.
 
So I remembered my local Lr specialist was doing free vehicle safety checks for regular customers so I thought why not, getting a second opinion from a more trained eye than mine can never be a bad thing.

I've just got back and I'm quite disheartened with the results. As the mechanic is a mate he went over and above the normal safety checks they do and I have the following things to fix:

All 4 tyres bald on inside edges
Bonnet struts weak
Rear wiper motor inoperative and arm missing (can't believe I didn't spot that myself...)
Water ingress on both rear lamps
Slight oil leak auto box pan
Near side cat breaking up and requires replacing
Excessive play rear hub
Rear bushes worn
Rear break discs corroded and lipped and pads 90% worn
Excessive travel in handbrake - probably needs new break shoes (unseen)
New battery required
Possible torque converted replacement (I knew about this already though)
Passenger door mirror inoperative and just sitting on post

I was expecting some of this, but not all of it. Its going to eat the rest of my budget and more putting it right.
I have to say I am a little dismayed at that list too, I think the guy has been thorough which is a good thing - that's what you pay him for, but there is nothing on that list that should be a total surprise for you aside from the cat and the rear hub, which even I am surprised at........

  • Tyres are wear and tear items - so fair enough, have covered about 22-23k miles so it is to be expected.
  • Bonnet struts are weak when they are cold - they are also 14 years old, I put the bonnet in service mode - which we talked about - when I work on the car
  • Rear wiper is missing and was when I bought the car 5 years ago - with it not being there is not an MOT fail - if it was and it didn't work that's a fail - I also have a thread on hear where I take the motor apart to figure out the fault - the motor works perfectly, but the nylon gears are stripped inside (common on the L322 rear wiper) and needs to be replaced - all this is again in my threads.
  • Most L322 suffer water ingress, but it is I can assure you not from a leak into the boot space. It could be the seals on the lamp unit and blocked breathers. The fix is simple, drill a tiny hole in the clear glass section and this allows them to breathe...this is a common fix, Goooooogle is your friend on that one.
  • Autobox leak - is a minor fix with a new gasket, simple to do and needs to be done when you do the torque converter any way.
  • N/S cat is a new one to me, it has never failed to pass the emissions, it has never suffered the usual 'blockage effect' that can happen when the cat breaks down on the M62 engine (well documented on Bimmer sites) and the only indication is the upstream o2 sensor keeps giving a fault, but that is before the Cat not after. I'll post a photo of the diagnostics I did before you came over
  • N/S/R hub play - didn't detect any when I did the handbrake shoes a while ago, but replacement bearings are available.
  • Rear bushes are a common item on the L322, she has a big ar$e and are time limited items. They were done before I got the car and were replaced at the same time as the struts and rear bags in 2011, so are getting close to their age limit, but still should be MOT-able as they do not have excessive movement and don't groan or knock yet.
  • Pads were last done about 3 years ago and are no doubt getting close to replacement time....as for discs, they looked OK when I did the handbrake shoes about 18months ago - there is a how to on those!
  • Handbrake travel - the L322 is notorious for bad handbrake efficiency, and at best will only just scrape through the MOT test at their best. Read my threads and posts about my MOT and handbrake issues. What you have to do is tighten them up for the MOT, then loosen them off again afterwards as they will be binding to just get past the MOT test.
  • New battery was discussed
  • Torque Converter was discussed
  • Passenger door mirror does work because you were adjusting it by accident when you went to move the drivers mirror if you remember. The Wing mirror was bounced off a width barrier a while ago, but the unit is secure if a tad 'loose' but it won't fall off! I mentioned the width barrier bounce and posted a photo of the scratch on the thread!
Sorry you have found a list of things to do, but in all honesty that ain't too bad, tyres are wear and tear, bonnet struts are cheap and cheerful, the autobox oil leak is minor (else I would have seen the mess on the drive!) and needs to come off when you do the TQ any way, Brakes are wear and tear, the rear lights is a common fault, rear bushes are common wear items, handbrake is well documented, etc etc....

All of it is well within the DIY scope, and is certainly a list of things to be expected on a 14 year old big bummed bus.....As I said, I will not run away from you, I will offer advice and assistance where I can.

20170211_134650.jpg
 
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I have to say I am a little dismayed at that list too, I think the guy has been thorough which is a good thing - that's what you pay him for, but there is nothing on that list that should be a total surprise for you aside from the cat and the rear hub, which even I am surprised at........

  • Tyres are wear and tear items - so fair enough, have covered about 22-23k miles so it is to be expected.
  • Bonnet struts are weak when they are cold - they are also 14 years old, I put the bonnet in service mode - which we talked about - when I work on the car
  • Rear wiper is missing and was when I bought the car 5 years ago - with it not being there is not an MOT fail - if it was and it didn't work that's a fail - I also have a thread on hear where I take the motor apart to figure out the fault - the motor works perfectly, but the nylon gears are stripped inside (common on the L322 rear wiper) and needs to be replaced - all this is again in my threads.
  • Most L322 suffer water ingress, but it is I can assure you not from a leak into the boot space. It could be the seals on the lamp unit and blocked breathers. The fix is simple, drill a tiny hole in the clear glass section and this allows them to breathe...this is a common fix, Goooooogle is your friend on that one.
  • Autobox leak - is a minor fix with a new gasket, simple to do and needs to be done when you do the torque converter any way.
  • N/S cat is a new one to me, it has never failed to pass the emissions, it has never suffered the usual 'blockage effect' that can happen when the cat breaks down on the M62 engine (well documented on Bimmer sites) and the only indication is the upstream o2 sensor keeps giving a fault, but that is before the Cat not after. I'll post a photo of the diagnostics I did before you came over
  • N/S/R hub play - didn't detect any when I did the handbrake shoes a while ago, but replacement bearings are available.
  • Rear bushes are a common item on the L322, she has a big ar$e and are time limited items. They were done before I got the car and were replaced at the same time as the struts and rear bags in 2011, so are getting close to their age limit, but still should be MOT-able as they do not have excessive movement and don't groan or knock yet.
  • Pads were last done about 3 years ago and are no doubt getting close to replacement time....as for discs, they looked OK when I did the handbrake shoes about 18months ago - there is a how to on those!
  • Handbrake travel - the L322 is notorious for bad handbrake efficiency, and at best will only just scrape through the MOT test at their best. Read my threads and posts about my MOT and handbrake issues. What you have to do is tighten them up for the MOT, then loosen them off again afterwards as they will be binding to just get past the MOT test.
  • New battery was discussed
  • Torque Converter was discussed
  • Passenger door mirror does work because you were adjusting it by accident when you went to move the drivers mirror if you remember. The Wing mirror was bounced off a width barrier a while ago, but the unit is secure if a tad 'loose' but it won't fall off! I mentioned the width barrier bounce and posted a photo of the scratch on the thread!
Sorry you have found a list of things to do, but in all honesty that ain't too bad, tyres are wear and tear, bonnet struts are cheap and cheerful, the autobox oil leak is minor (else I would have seen the mess on the drive!) and needs to come off when you do the TQ any way, Brakes are wear and tear, the rear lights is a common fault, rear bushes are common wear items, handbrake is well documented, etc etc....

All of it is well within the DIY scope, and is certainly a list of things to be expected on a 14 year old big bummed bus.....As I said, I will not run away from you, I will offer advice and assistance where I can.

View attachment 117622

Hi Ant

Thanks for that. By no means was my last post a moan at you! I knew about most of the faults when I bought the car and its within my budget to fix it (or I would have looked at something else). I had hoped that I could do the jobs that needed doing over the next few months instead of all in one hit. I still think shes a great car and will be even better once I've got everything sorted.

Ian
 
Hi Ant

Thanks for that. By no means was my last post a moan at you! I knew about most of the faults when I bought the car and its within my budget to fix it (or I would have looked at something else). I had hoped that I could do the jobs that needed doing over the next few months instead of all in one hit. I still think shes a great car and will be even better once I've got everything sorted.

Ian
No worries Ian, I haven't taken it personally, as I said, if I know it was a duffer, I wouldn't sell it to someone on here as I have a long standing relationship with LZ and I wouldn't cut my nose off to spite my face, if you see what I mean.

I did mention in the PM that tyres were on the list of things to look at also.

The MOT is due in June so you have about 4 months to go through things, the only ones I would double check is the cat and the rear hub, I am certainly not saying he is wrong or spinning you a yarn but I would have expected more 'signs' of a broken down cat, and also a downstream O2 fault not upstream! Typical signs are misfiring, rough running, hesitation on acceleration (which you have to admit it doesn't do - you were having fun booting it on the test drive :D), rattling, stuttering at high revs due to blockage, and also various O2 sensor faults....as I say they are well documented on Bimmer sites - I even had a cat breakdown issue on a 735 I owned a couple of years ago....

As for the rear hub bearing, when you do it - write a How To!! :D
 

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