I only bought an auto because for a short while was not allowed to drive (medical) so my wife had to drive it and she has a medical reason for not being able to drive a manual.
It goes OK when it goes, it uses a lot of fuel as you would expect, but judging by the number of threads on this forum about problems to do with the auto box, I'd think hard about getting one.
But then the manual has a DMF which can also be a pain.
On balance, I wish it was a manual, but loads of people love autos.
If you do get one, be prepared for ATF and filter changes, ATF leaks, the M and S lights coming on, wear to the loom going over the Transfer and Auto box causing problems, and of course it has its own box electrical box of tricks which in itself can cause problems.
If you search here you will find plenty to read about.
It goes OK when it goes, it uses a lot of fuel as you would expect, but judging by the number of threads on this forum about problems to do with the auto box, I'd think hard about getting one.
But then the manual has a DMF which can also be a pain.
On balance, I wish it was a manual, but loads of people love autos.
If you do get one, be prepared for ATF and filter changes, ATF leaks, the M and S lights coming on, wear to the loom going over the Transfer and Auto box causing problems, and of course it has its own box electrical box of tricks which in itself can cause problems.
If you search here you will find plenty to read about.
AdamD1
Well-Known Member
I’ve had a serious ATF leak which cost me about £250 to get sorted on the quick. Have seen M&S lights in the past too due to a low battery and more recently a blown fusible link. They do have their issues certainly but if you’re buying a D2 you should be expecting to need to do some regular work on it. I’d still take the Auto personally but it’s probably wiser to buy on condition rather than what box it has.
Interceptorxj
Well-Known Member
Depends what you will be using it for / what sort of traffic you will be driving in. I have had both auto and manual and both drive very well although I much prefer the manual but wouldn't if i was stuck in a lot of stop start rush hour traffic.
manchestershire
Well-Known Member
We have an auto, nice to drive (If a bit boring, for want of a better word) good for driving in busy traffic, not so good when you're travelling on a 50mph A road stuck behind a turd in a prius saving the planet doing 45 and you are behind with your engine clattering away at nearly 3000 rpm cos you cant get the torque converter to lock up speed (about 50mph) and drive a bit more economical.
Ps, i appreciate the word economical shouldn't be used describing one of these
.
Ps, i appreciate the word economical shouldn't be used describing one of these
.
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
The auto does like to rev on the Td5 in that it seems to change gear a bit late. I know the v8 is better as it had a more sensible TC. You can retrofit to a Td5 but its £££. I have got used to it and when you put your foot down it does drive alot better. 23mpg mind around town.... but 36mpg on a run
I am dreaming of a figure like that on my Auto TD5. If I get 30, on a run, I break out the champagne!
If I cruise at 60 mph on a Mway, I can just about get 30 mpg. So maybe, if you cannot get that, you should have a look at your MAF? That made a huge difference to mine as, up to that point, I only ever got 23 mpg, no matter what I was doing. It also depends on what you are towing. My box trailer is a big as a small house and has the airflow characteristics of a brick, but even with that, I could get in the low twenties on an Mway.
Well I cruise at 70 on the motorway. Interestingly, the mpg with the van on the back is only a couple worse than it is solo. Of course I'm then driving at 60 rather than 70.....
It's been consistent over 10 years and I have changed the MAF at one point during that time. My brother did once accuse me of driving like a "chav" whatever that is.
It's been consistent over 10 years and I have changed the MAF at one point during that time. My brother did once accuse me of driving like a "chav" whatever that is.
The brief answer is "Worse performance, worse fuel consumption".
I think to be sure about the MAF you may well need diagnostics. I changed mine a couple of years ago, for one that wasn't cheap and once on it made no difference. this was long before I had diagnostics and I just thought it was me being silly and that the new one must be working. But when I went to a garage for diagnostics on another matter, they told me the Maf was naff. It was then changed for a hugely expensive one but the difference was obvious both in the driving experience and fuel consumption.
It is said that if your MAF is up the spout you can disconnect it and see if there is a difference, as then the ECU sets a map running on average readings, like when the electric company bill you on an "estimated reading". but now I have my diagnostics it tells me when the Maf is wrong.
I think to be sure about the MAF you may well need diagnostics. I changed mine a couple of years ago, for one that wasn't cheap and once on it made no difference. this was long before I had diagnostics and I just thought it was me being silly and that the new one must be working. But when I went to a garage for diagnostics on another matter, they told me the Maf was naff. It was then changed for a hugely expensive one but the difference was obvious both in the driving experience and fuel consumption.
It is said that if your MAF is up the spout you can disconnect it and see if there is a difference, as then the ECU sets a map running on average readings, like when the electric company bill you on an "estimated reading". but now I have my diagnostics it tells me when the Maf is wrong.
One final point on economical driving. It is usually seen that the most economical cruising speed, to combine making decent progress with economy is, peak torque in top gear. Peak torque is about 2000 rpm, maybe a bit below. Which equates to whatever that shows itself to be on your speedo when in top gear. Any lower revs you can do and still stay in top gear without making the engine labour, will be even more economical. Sadly this does not equate to 70 mph. Closer to 55-60. But also vicious acceleration kills economy. I try to drive keeping one eye on the rev counter, especially when climbing hills. But the new, stupid speed limits in France kill your economy as you have no chance of locking up in an auto at 80 kph. Here again you can probably drive more economically in a manual car.
Si Click
Well-Known Member
I bought my auto with a rebuilt and tuned engine, but the standard torque converter and it was so awful that despite bills for over £8000 the previous owner wanted rid and sold it for less than half that. I had the Ashcroft V8 torque converter conversion fitted and it made a huge difference, transforming it into the D2 the previous owner had wanted. The over revving feel of the standard torque converter was gone and you can drive in most conditions up to 60 mph without going much above 2000 rpm. The box will still change gear at the same speeds which always seem a bit high, but you can do it all in a more relaxed manner and as a result it is much more satisfying and much, much less embarrassing around town.
The downsides are:
Cost - including buying a used V8 Thor type torque converter, having Ashcroft refurbish it and supply a conversion kit and having
my local LR indie garage fit it, I spent close to £1200. Ashcroft will need you to source your own V8 torque converter.
Bogging down - the conversion assumes you have a tuned TD5 and unless yours is generating north of about 150 bhp it will feel sluggish and refuse to rev much above 3000. With the tune you get the full rev range back, but in practice mine only goes above 3000 if I accelerate hard or go well above 70 mph; but it exploits the extra power far better than standard and the Sport mode suddenly makes sense. Overall economy with the Alive tune and the conversion is similar to standard at around 25-30 mpg.
The downsides are:
Cost - including buying a used V8 Thor type torque converter, having Ashcroft refurbish it and supply a conversion kit and having
my local LR indie garage fit it, I spent close to £1200. Ashcroft will need you to source your own V8 torque converter.
Bogging down - the conversion assumes you have a tuned TD5 and unless yours is generating north of about 150 bhp it will feel sluggish and refuse to rev much above 3000. With the tune you get the full rev range back, but in practice mine only goes above 3000 if I accelerate hard or go well above 70 mph; but it exploits the extra power far better than standard and the Sport mode suddenly makes sense. Overall economy with the Alive tune and the conversion is similar to standard at around 25-30 mpg.
discool
Well-Known Member
Well if it’s impossible lock up at 80kph it certainly won’t drop out at 80kph, so why not increase your speed till lock up and drop back down to 80kph.
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Si Click
Well-Known Member
Same applies at low speed. It won't change up until 30 mph, so if traffic is slower than this I frequently look for an opportunity to get up to 30 as it is then quite happy in the higher gear down to about 20.
