I've been reading about these 'ere Mass Airflow Sensors and how they can deteriorate over time, get covered in crud from the EGR system etc, etc. So, I was curious about whether my truck's sensor was in need of attention, or not.

Not terribly keen on taking the thing to bits to find out it doesn't need attention, unless...no, not terribly keen on taking it to bits full stop. So, I did the simple test and unplugged the sensor. The truck started, seemed quieter than with it plugged in. But, that could be just me.

Reversed it out of it's bay in the drive, headed down the drive and onto the road.

Holy Fook...the thing took off like a startled dog! That big flat spot in second that needed about 50% throttle to get any legs out of it disappeared and the it felt fantastic and was quieter too, I swear.

I have now ordered some CRC cleaner and will be drenching the sensor in cleaner to see if that improves things. If not, I'm ordering a new one.

Then onto the de-cat, EGR bypass, K&N and a thorough clean of the gubbins. I don't really care about more power, just want the power that it's entitled to and to remove anything that will get in the way of that.

If anyone wants to try this and can't find the thread, here's what I did:
  1. Gently lift the retaining clip up off the sensor connector by sliding a flat blade screw driver underiit and levering it up. See the pics below.
  2. Unplug the sensor connector, cover in masking tape and secure aside.
  3. Put a small piece of masking tape over the exposed sensor electrics.
  4. Go for a drive.
  5. If it feels better, then the sensor either needs a clean or replacement based on the evidence of others.
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WTF is a truck?:mad:

PS - you might get a good deal on an EGR blanking kit, if you look in the For Sales:cool:
 
WTF is a truck?:mad:

PS - you might get a good deal on an EGR blanking kit, if you look in the For Sales:cool:

A vehicle designed for pulling stuff...people, heavy loads, trailers - seems like a good description to me? I can't call it a car, it's more than that. I can't call it an SUV, just because. 4x4 could describe anything. Or, maybe I'm just being multi-cultural, lazy, take yer pick :)

Thanks for the tip...I had seen £15 on eBay...I'll check out For Sales.
 
But when you unplugged it your engine management would of altered other settings to compensate ( like fuel delivery etc ). Also emissions were probably through the roof at the same time, so when you clean it or replace it, it might not run the same as it did without it.
 
There are more ways the MAF can fail and there can be running/starting issues due to it, the fuel map is conceived as the engine to run well on default just that the consumption is increased with up to 5-10%, in case of open circuit there will be no diffreence with it unplugged but in any other scenario the engine will run better with a perfect MAF signal than on default with MAF unplugged, that's why is so important that the MAF to be genuine unit
 
I did a little economy test on my 1st full tank of fuel and I used slightly over 50 litres for 234 miles. This was a mix of local urban and rural driving and a longer run down to Chichester. It's hard to say if this is normal as I found myself being really cautious and gentle on the throttle and brakes as I hadn't built up any trust in them yet, so it wasn't really normal driving. This got me about 24mpg (imperial gallon), which seems poor and I am expecting it to get worse as I become more confident in the mechanicals. The combined figure is, apparently, 27mpg, though in the real world that's more likely to be closer to my 24mpg. So, it looks like a drinking problem is setting in.
 

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