R

RJull

Member
Hi All,
Posted on here regarding a running cold issue and not heat into the cab.

Well, today I have been changing the thermostat, but when I got the housing off there was no thermostat????? :confused:

I have put the new one in and will finish it up tomorrow (Need a 'O' Ring for the other pipe!!)

Can anyone shed any light on to the fact as to why the thermostat would be missing?

Thanks

Rob
 
What vehicle are we talking about?
As a rule its not something that you forget to fit after working on the cooling system, my thoughts are a previous owner has removed it as a bodge to cure an overheating problem. If this is the case, ensure you refill the cooling system carefully using instructions on here to ensure there is no air in the system, and keep a very close eye on the tempreture when you run it up. I would monitor this very closely over a few weeks along with keeping an eye on the coolant levels.
Any scumm floating on the coolant? this could be the sign of Rad weld or similar.
Have you had any other issues with the car like coolant loss, missfiring etc?
 
Its a 2.5 DSE, collant level was low, but hasn't moved, was going to top up, but knew I needed to do Thermostat.

Had the car 1 week :eek:
 
OK, thermostat in, all sealed up and no leak. :)

Have ran for a while with cap off, had a bit of foam and air which went, no scum / oil.

Temp gauge was over half way, electric front fans have yet to kick in?

Right hand rad hose very hot, left hand stayed cold, and just before I turned her off started to warm up.

Also, no heat into cab, hoses not very hot, leading to heater matrix.

1: What should to temperature gauge go to before the fan kicks in?

2: Do I have an an air lock?

3: Is there a way to check the electric fans work (Override??)?

Thanks

Rob
 
RJull said:
OK, thermostat in, all sealed up and no leak. :)

Have ran for a while with cap off, had a bit of foam and air which went, no scum / oil.

Temp gauge was over half way, electric front fans have yet to kick in?

Right hand rad hose very hot, left hand stayed cold, and just before I turned her off started to warm up.

Also, no heat into cab, hoses not very hot, leading to heater matrix.

1: What should to temperature gauge go to before the fan kicks in?

2: Do I have an an air lock?

3: Is there a way to check the electric fans work (Override??)?

Thanks

Rob
Click to expand...

The electric fans are not for the rad cooling they are for airconditioning. Unless a prevoius owner has removed the viscous fan and rigged a thermostat to top hose to use electric fans for engine cooling they will not come on. Run engine with cap on and watch temp gauge. Water will not circulate correctly through system with cap off. Hotter pipes at one side is normal until thermostat opens.
 
Last edited:
Make sure the system is bled properly. You need to remove the small hose from the top left of the rad (as you are facing the engine) blow this through to make sure there is no water in it. Put it back on and then top up. As mentioned you need to keep the cap on.
 
rewmer said:
Make sure the system is bled properly. You need to remove the small hose from the top left of the rad (as you are facing the engine) blow this through to make sure there is no water in it. Put it back on and then top up. As mentioned you need to keep the cap on.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, had the cap off for most of the run up, but did put it back on towards the end.

Small hose?? Is this the one that goes back to the resevior?? :confused:

I am going to run it up again, with the cap on :rolleyes:
 
Well, blew through the radiator bleed pipe (Had water in it), kept the cap on this time :eek: and at the moment all seems fine. Temp gauge sitting half way and heat into the cab.

So fingers crossed ;)

BUT, why or why was the thermostat missing??? :confused:

Thanks for all you help

Rob
 
Datatek said:
Probably stat just failed and previous owner too tight to replace it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, thanks what I am hoping, but does seem odd to go through all the trouble to take it out and not spend £30 on a new one. :confused:

Going to give it a run in a mo so double fingers crossed
 
RJull said:
Yeah, thanks what I am hoping, but does seem odd to go through all the trouble to take it out and not spend £30 on a new one. :confused:

Going to give it a run in a mo so double fingers crossed
Click to expand...

hi,have you got a fan on your engine,the viscous type.
 
Check that the viscous fan is actually working, when you rev the engine hot, the fan should spin up, mine sounds like Concorde on take off! Cold it will not spin so fast.
The viscous fan drive is known to fail.
 
OK, been for a run, both motorway, dual carriage way, town, sat in traffic and left it on tick over when I got home......

Temperature gauge stayed in the middle and did not move. I had plenty of heat into the cab :D and when I got back all hoses are now hot.

Coolant level has dropped (But I have just done the thermostat!!) and I will top it up once it has cooled down.

So hopefully it was just left out to save money??? :crazy:

Time will tell
 
i kno this is kinda obvious but with a stat in , the cylinder head will become hot first before the stat opens , then when it reaches temp the stat will open allowing the rad to cool and circulate, the top hose is usualy warm and the bottom is cooler as its on its way back in ,
the viscus fan is good till it seases up! once ther shot it will start over cooling the engine , by running at the same speed as the engine, as tho its fixed,
i wouldnt worry too much about the missing stat, as some people just dunt bother ;)
lookin at the temp gauge, it will go to half then slightly over , the stat will open then it will drop back to half, thats yer running temp, just watch it dont get carried away in to the red ! they will alwayd peak before the drop again, so dont worry too much about it going over half, as long as its holding the coolant !
 
90truckcab said:
i kno this is kinda obvious but with a stat in , the cylinder head will become hot first before the stat opens , then when it reaches temp the stat will open allowing the rad to cool and circulate, the top hose is usualy warm and the bottom is cooler as its on its way back in ,
the viscus fan is good till it seases up! once ther shot it will start over cooling the engine , by running at the same speed as the engine, as tho its fixed,
i wouldnt worry too much about the missing stat, as some people just dunt bother ;)
lookin at the temp gauge, it will go to half then slightly over , the stat will open then it will drop back to half, thats yer running temp, just watch it dont get carried away in to the red ! they will alwayd peak before the drop again, so dont worry too much about it going over half, as long as its holding the coolant !
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, yes it did appear to creep above half, but not sure if it was my eyes, as I was tyring to drive at the same time :D

If all is OK, I just do not see the point to go to all the trouble of taking it apart (And it was a real pain in the... hands as not much room!!!) then not bothering to put a new one in, but hey each to there own.

Rob
 
RJull said:
Thanks for the info, yes it did appear to creep above half, but not sure if it was my eyes, as I was tyring to drive at the same time :D

If all is OK, I just do not see the point to go to all the trouble of taking it apart (And it was a real pain in the... hands as not much room!!!) then not bothering to put a new one in, but hey each to there own.

Rob
Click to expand...



seen it before, but its also a quick fix for over heating :rolleyes: so just keep yer eye on it, but by the sounds of it yer ok , it wont be much over half, just the thickness of the needle sometimes, if yer hands on the top hose as it peaks yer will feel the hose getting warm , then the needle drops as it goes in to / towards the rad.
 
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