gencybay said:
Yes. That is what I undestood from your older posts.



I'm not thinking of a total failure, just that over time the springs properties may have changed and that it is opening at a lower temp than it would have done when new, diverting all that nice warm water to the rad.

I'm a bit surprised that you and @Datatek haven't suggested a radiator blind like you used to have in the fifties.
Click to expand...
The stat has a bleed hole so there is always a small amount of circulation, plus the baffle in the RAD lets water past.
Stats in my experience usually fail open rather than change their characteristics, you would know if it was stuck open. No harm in fitting a new stat, but do check it in a pan of water to ensure it opens correctly and fit with the bleed hole at the top.
How many people do you need to tell you that it is not going to get hot in 2 miles?
 
Datatek said:
How many people do you need to tell you that it is not going to get hot in 2 miles?
Click to expand...

I suppose I'm thinking back to my petrol Volvo and various other cars with less substantial blocks. I guess that they heated up more quickly.
 
gencybay said:
Yes. That is what I undestood from your older posts.



I'm not thinking of a total failure, just that over time the springs properties may have changed and that it is opening at a lower temp than it would have done when new, diverting all that nice warm water to the rad.

I'm a bit surprised that you and @Datatek haven't suggested a radiator blind like you used to have in the fifties.
Click to expand...

Engine running temps were a lot lower in the fifties than they are now. One of the services regularly carried out with the onset of winter was to drain and fill with antifreeze and change the stat to a winter one of slightly higher operating temp. Then at the onset of summer change the stat to one of lower operating temp. Those were the days. Yeah rad blinds were certainly more common in those days. I would however not recommend fitting one to your P38.
 
Datatek said:
The stat has a bleed hole so there is always a small amount of circulation, plus the baffle in the RAD lets water past.
Stats in my experience usually fail open rather than change their characteristics, you would know if it was stuck open. No harm in fitting a new stat, but do check it in a pan of water to ensure it opens correctly and fit with the bleed hole at the top.
How many people do you need to tell you that it is not going to get hot in 2 miles?
Click to expand...

The old bellows type always failed open wax stats in general unless the spring has failed fail shut. If they lose their wax they cannot open which is the usual mode of failure..
 
wammers said:
Engine running temps were a lot lower in the fifties than they are now. One of the services regularly carried out with the onset of winter was to drain and fill with antifreeze and change the stat to a winter one of slightly higher operating temp. Then at the onset of summer change the stat to one of lower operating temp. Those were the days. Yeah rad blinds were certainly more common in those days. I would however not recommend fitting one to your P38.
Click to expand...


Aha! So you're not dissing my logic entirely.

I suppose that I could check the existing one and see what temp it is opening at but, to be honest, with the vast expense of a new one, I might as well replace it with new known to open at 80C one.

From earlier posts it seems to be more of a faff than it was on Cortinas, which I think was the last time I replaced one.
 
gencybay said:
Aha! So you're not dissing my logic entirely.

I suppose that I could check the existing one and see what temp it is opening at but, to be honest, with the vast expense of a new one, I might as well replace it with new known to open at 80C one.

From earlier posts it seems to be more of a faff than it was on Cortinas, which I think was the last time I replaced one.
Click to expand...

Replacing a stat on a P38 is a lot more faff than any Cortina ever was i can assure you. Shroud and viscous fan out for a start.
 
The cost of a genuine stat is ridiculous from Land rover. But decent OEM are a lot less expensive. Valeo OEM is around twenty quid including VAT and post from Island 4x4.
 
wammers said:
Replacing a stat on a P38 is a lot more faff than any Cortina ever was i can assure you. Shroud and viscous fan out for a start.
Click to expand...

Nevertheless I think that is going to have to be done. I got the lad to give me a Nanocom commentary. Up to 58, then a drop back to 53, followed by a slow climb to 75ish.

My view is that the stat is opening at too low a temp.
 
gencybay said:
Nevertheless I think that is going to have to be done. I got the lad to give me a Nanocom commentary. Up to 58, then a drop back to 53, followed by a slow climb to 75ish.

My view is that the stat is opening at too low a temp.
Click to expand...
Sounds fairly normal.
 
Changed mine a few years ago without taking fan of its a fiddle but can be done, take the front cover off unbolt the rail with the wires in and lift up out the way then fiddle around with a 1/4 drive set to unbolt housing I don't think I even undid the hose, well that's what I can remember of the procedure.
 
brianp38dse said:
Changed mine a few years ago without taking fan of its a fiddle but can be done, take the front cover off unbolt the rail with the wires in and lift up out the way then fiddle around with a 1/4 drive set to unbolt housing I don't think I even undid the hose, well that's what I can remember of the procedure.
Click to expand...

Grateful if you could change your avatar given the topic.
 
I would think to put some silver foil over the front grill.
No way its going to warm up in a 2 mile run.
 
You have still not answered the question from post #9, with all this going on where is the temp gauge needle indicating.
 
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