That bunch of wiring that goes around the vehicle is known as a harness. ;)
The data bus (possibly a CAN bus) is just a pair of twisted wires (normally thin and yellow + a different colour trace), within that harness.
I suspect Roland has also chewed some gearbox signal wires, which is why some of the gear position LEDs aren't illuminating.
Does the gear position come up on the dash LCD? I'm guessing not, as that information is also broadcast on the data bus.

I think you'll be best off removing the whole dash, as the harness is very tricky to get to, with the dash in place. The harness is the first item installed when the vehicle is built, so some major stripping is normally required to get to it.

The airbag is completely safe, as long as the battery has been disconnected for 20 minutes, before working on or near it. ;)

Thanks Nodge, appreciate the answer - You're right, when the car is in manual or sport mode, we have no idea what gear she's in.
I think I've seen the instructions for removing the dash - Seems fairly easy after the steering wheel is off. I can reach the nibbled wires with my hand just above the pollen filter behind the passenger glove box, and can get a phone camera up there to take a photo of the wires, but can't see them and touch them at the same time. I get the feeling that connecting these wires by feel alone isn't the best idea...

upload_2020-12-10_16-53-11.png
 
The passenger glove box comes out and also removing the center speaker on the dashboard gives some insight, I did it when I installed a new android system in mine, sorry I cant exactly remember the details but once you get the centre speaker out then it's not too difficult to get the radio module out and you can get in there.
 
Thanks Nodge, appreciate the answer - You're right, when the car is in manual or sport mode, we have no idea what gear she's in.
I think I've seen the instructions for removing the dash - Seems fairly easy after the steering wheel is off. I can reach the nibbled wires with my hand just above the pollen filter behind the passenger glove box, and can get a phone camera up there to take a photo of the wires, but can't see them and touch them at the same time. I get the feeling that connecting these wires by feel alone isn't the best idea...

View attachment 224907

I'd disconnect the battery, if you've not done so already, as it looks like some of the damaged wires will be live, so could blow fuses, send battery voltage where it's not supposed to be, or even start fires.
 
So my shopping list for this job so far is a 2 dogs and a Haynes manual. One of those I have, the others I'm not allowed in a rental house. :)
What's your landlord got against Haynes manuals?


In all earnest, this link was originally provided by @Hippo and lets you download "Rave", no low sticks required, it's the official Rand Rover workshop manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p995vwneqyst4k5/rave01.iso?dl=0

Rave is dead easy to use, download the ISO image, double-click it and windows 8/8.1/10 will automatically mount it as a virtual CD ROM with that disk inserted, then open the "drive", and open rave.exe which is a tailored version of Acrobat reader, then it's just follow hyperlinks to get the repair procedures.

You might need to do some creative navigation as from memory I don't think there is a specific procedure to remove the dash, but if you find things that will need the dashboard removed, it will give you some pointers.
Start at the centre console where the handbrake lever is:
  • Screws in the bottom of the cubbyhole make lets you lift the lid and pocket out in a oner
  • Using a long extension through there gets to the back bolts that hold the console onto the floorplan
  • At the front of the console, pull the switches out, then unplug the wires, the switches and plugs are unique to each other, with a ridge on the back of the plug locating into a corresponding slot in the switch, and each switch having its own unique position for the ridge/slot so you don't need to worry about noting wiring positions or labelling the plugs.
  • aft lighter socket can be sprung out from the back of the console with unique plugs for power and lighting making labelling unnecessary
  • Twist the handbrake grip off the lever and pull the gator out, it pops in with clips
  • Under the handbrake lever is a little pop on cover which reveals a couple more bolts to the floor - remove them as well
  • Lift out the aft section of the centre console
  • Twist the gearknob and pull it up off the stickas it comes up it will drag the gator with it, a little bit of help with a flat screwdriver will see thegator pop up/out
  • IIRC there are a couple of screws in the sides fo the forward section fo the centre console where the gearstick is located undo them
  • remove the stereo IIRC this reveals more screws into the original dashboard skin
  • above the stereo is a little roof panel that pops out and reveals a couple more screws, you guessed it, remove them
  • same procedure for the smaller more modern looking switches in the facelift dashboard as the switches you removed from beside the handbrake lever, pull the switch out remove wire, cannot be plugged in wrongly
  • front cigarette lighter socket on dashboard face is similar to aft one and is easily removed.
  • pull the knobs off the beater controls, more dash screws lurk in there
  • remove the forward section of the centre console
  • this exposes the heater control panel screws, remove them and slide unit as far out of dash as you can
  • on the back end of the heater controls are stainless wire Boden cables that are a pain to remove from the back of the control dials, but they can be done, its just fiddly. There is also the multiplugs for wiring of the greater blower switch
  • there are also some electrical plugs for a microswitch that switches on AC when heater ducts are lined up to windscreen and the other turns on PTC heater, these can be interchanged, so maybe best to tag them up
  • remove heater control panel
  • glove boxes on both sides unbolt readily accessible screws on the hinges
  • glove box liners screw in with screws going into spire clips from the sides IIRC
  • up at the top corners of the dash skin there are little 1.5" square popup covers that cover screws into bulkhead - remove them
  • the clock bezel just Springs out, and a couple of screws hold the clock in IIRC
  • IIRC there are some, maybe just one, bolt(s) behind the clock at the top of the dash
For the rest of the fasteners I've undoubtedly overlooked you'll have to look at the Rave manual, probably find something like changing the heater matrix will cover removing the dashboard as part of the process and can pick up where I've left off with the epistle above. It's mostly the topend addenda to the dash I'm unfamiliar with, and as such haven't touched upon, so things like airbag and speedometer, will definitely need to come from other forum users / Rave. I also find looking on ebay for pictures of used dashboards for sale to be a good source of pictures that lets me see the dashboard removed and often this reveals bolt holes where some of the hidden screws are located.

It's not "hard" - but it will take you a few hours, and a 1/4 drive socket set will be a godsend on this task.

Can I ask a small favour of you? Would you mind taking a lot of photos as you strip the dash off and putting together a post showing how you did it as a dash removal guide for future reference on the forum?
 
What's your landlord got against Haynes manuals?


In all earnest, this link was originally provided by @Hippo and lets you download "Rave", no low sticks required, it's the official Rand Rover workshop manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p995vwneqyst4k5/rave01.iso?dl=0

Rave is dead easy to use, download the ISO image, double-click it and windows 8/8.1/10 will automatically mount it as a virtual CD ROM with that disk inserted, then open the "drive", and open rave.exe which is a tailored version of Acrobat reader, then it's just follow hyperlinks to get the repair procedures.

You might need to do some creative navigation as from memory I don't think there is a specific procedure to remove the dash, but if you find things that will need the dashboard removed, it will give you some pointers.
Start at the centre console where the handbrake lever is:
  • Screws in the bottom of the cubbyhole make lets you lift the lid and pocket out in a oner
  • Using a long extension through there gets to the back bolts that hold the console onto the floorplan
  • At the front of the console, pull the switches out, then unplug the wires, the switches and plugs are unique to each other, with a ridge on the back of the plug locating into a corresponding slot in the switch, and each switch having its own unique position for the ridge/slot so you don't need to worry about noting wiring positions or labelling the plugs.
  • aft lighter socket can be sprung out from the back of the console with unique plugs for power and lighting making labelling unnecessary
  • Twist the handbrake grip off the lever and pull the gator out, it pops in with clips
  • Under the handbrake lever is a little pop on cover which reveals a couple more bolts to the floor - remove them as well
  • Lift out the aft section of the centre console
  • Twist the gearknob and pull it up off the stickas it comes up it will drag the gator with it, a little bit of help with a flat screwdriver will see thegator pop up/out
  • IIRC there are a couple of screws in the sides fo the forward section fo the centre console where the gearstick is located undo them
  • remove the stereo IIRC this reveals more screws into the original dashboard skin
  • above the stereo is a little roof panel that pops out and reveals a couple more screws, you guessed it, remove them
  • same procedure for the smaller more modern looking switches in the facelift dashboard as the switches you removed from beside the handbrake lever, pull the switch out remove wire, cannot be plugged in wrongly
  • front cigarette lighter socket on dashboard face is similar to aft one and is easily removed.
  • pull the knobs off the beater controls, more dash screws lurk in there
  • remove the forward section of the centre console
  • this exposes the heater control panel screws, remove them and slide unit as far out of dash as you can
  • on the back end of the heater controls are stainless wire Boden cables that are a pain to remove from the back of the control dials, but they can be done, its just fiddly. There is also the multiplugs for wiring of the greater blower switch
  • there are also some electrical plugs for a microswitch that switches on AC when heater ducts are lined up to windscreen and the other turns on PTC heater, these can be interchanged, so maybe best to tag them up
  • remove heater control panel
  • glove boxes on both sides unbolt readily accessible screws on the hinges
  • glove box liners screw in with screws going into spire clips from the sides IIRC
  • up at the top corners of the dash skin there are little 1.5" square popup covers that cover screws into bulkhead - remove them
  • the clock bezel just Springs out, and a couple of screws hold the clock in IIRC
  • IIRC there are some, maybe just one, bolt(s) behind the clock at the top of the dash
For the rest of the fasteners I've undoubtedly overlooked you'll have to look at the Rave manual, probably find something like changing the heater matrix will cover removing the dashboard as part of the process and can pick up where I've left off with the epistle above. It's mostly the topend addenda to the dash I'm unfamiliar with, and as such haven't touched upon, so things like airbag and speedometer, will definitely need to come from other forum users / Rave. I also find looking on ebay for pictures of used dashboards for sale to be a good source of pictures that lets me see the dashboard removed and often this reveals bolt holes where some of the hidden screws are located.

It's not "hard" - but it will take you a few hours, and a 1/4 drive socket set will be a godsend on this task.

Can I ask a small favour of you? Would you mind taking a lot of photos as you strip the dash off and putting together a post showing how you did it as a dash removal guide for future reference on the forum?


Thanks @Jayridium ! I'll have a crack at that on Saturday

Thanks also for the RAVE file - I've followed instructions, but Windows seems to think it's a malicious file when I open the iso and run Rave.exe, I'm sure I'll find a way round it tho!
 
Still going! I've removed all the bits apart from the steering wheel, removed an air vent and have soldered some chewed wires, but we have a leaky roof and theres water coming down the wires possibly into the back of the driver fusebox. Can't start her up to test if the soldering has worked until she's dry and patched! We had the sunroof replaced, and i think a down pipe is blocked, not sure if the pipes are supposed to still be in use as weve had the new roof in but cut off the power to the mechanism.
 

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