I think that's the one that would go from the base of the post to the bottom of the screen where the dashboard frame work is welded on.

I was going to suggest we use a length of the side skirt and a set of jogglers to make a new one, can drill through from the outside for cable port, might be a fair bit cheaper than that panel!
 
Good night last night.
As usual, lots of discussion and prevarication, but we aren’t in a particular hurry.
The underfloor supports seem to be at a bit of a weird angle, but that might be because the box section is less flexible and accommodating that the usual sill.
Got the ns sill first fit complete and we are happy with the position and the way it is sitting. As to be expected, the chassis to sill mounts are critical in position, and the bolts have to be screwed into position - so maybe a mill or so out???!
Pics to follow from the oh-facial photogrificator ;).

Next week cleaning up welds and, hopefully painting prior to final fit :D
 
We wuz cookin on gas last night, and in the immortal words of The MerryMen "feeling hot hot hot"

Lots of heat and some half decent welding for a change :eek:

Here's a bit of the fitting and fettling before I attempted to find out how much heat that could be transmitted through a leather welding gauntlet :rolleyes:

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A little bit of rot in the existing floor pan that needs a bit of cleaning up and cutting out so we can make some templates and then plate the floor up.

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Here is the box section with the body mounts fully welded up and the floor supports fitted too.

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It got mighty warm under the gloves and hooyaa I got me a sweat on blazing it all up, welds don't look too shabby and at that heat there is for sure RedTube grade penetration :cool: :D

Now I' getting excited about getting it fitted and forging ahead with rebuilding the foot well.
 
Here's a bit of the fitting and fettling before I attempted to find out how much heat that could be transmitted through a leather welding gauntlet :rolleyes:

Unfortunately I know the answer .. 'kin lots ...

More unfortunately I frequently test how good my gauntlets are at keeping such heat at bay, the answer is 'not good enough'.

:confused:
 
Unfortunately I know the answer .. 'kin lots ...

More unfortunately I frequently test how good my gauntlets are at keeping such heat at bay, the answer is 'not good enough'.

:confused:

I wouldn't mind but it's the shocking part that suddenly the it goes from "getting warm" to "I'm on fire" in the blink of an eye o_O

@The Mad Hat Man are you in possession of a set of jogglers to fab up that panel for the inside of the door post?
 
I wouldn't mind but it's the shocking part that suddenly the it goes from "getting warm" to "I'm on fire" in the blink of an eye o_O

@The Mad Hat Man are you in possession of a set of jogglers to fab up that panel for the inside of the door post?
No
But it could be arranged...
Hand or pneumatic?

@dieseldog69 dont forget I already have a sheet metal folder.... (that rusty thing on the workbench in the garage)
I aint buying a bead roller - they are £250!!!!
 
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I reckon we could do a reasonable job - have a play next fri?

Laning - brill day out - 50+ miles, 4hrs 11 mins, ace speed 12MPH. Nice tech sections and some VERY scratchy sections.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/gants-berks-trip-today-in-pics.333475/

I recon's if we gets that off side sill built up on the front end and the near side mounted up with the post bottoms at least tacked on we could look as getting a bit of that 1.2mm in the folder to have a play,
 
Whilst cleaning up the welds, I noticed a few pinholes and, as I didn’t want to allow corrosion to get in to the weld area, I did a bit of splash and dash welding to just fill the voids.
in the first pic, it is possible to see where the weld depth on the end cap has been removed in the cleaning up process.... In retrospect, I should have mitred the mating edges to allow for the weld to fill the void.

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All cleaned up and ready for Kurusting and a coat of Buzzweld primer.

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As can be seen in the last picture, a drain hole has been introduced into the body support bracket. You can also see the 3mm holes in the floor support flanges for us to drill through for rivet pins and subsequent puddle welding.
 
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