I thought mine was rusty, if you're chassis is that bad imagine how bad your shell is =P. This is the landrover way, I would be tempted to sell up though as your time and skills could be put into a better condition vehicle. That is my opinion, only saying that because I've done the same thing, bought a rustbucket then held our for something solid =)
Tango91
Well-Known Member
I had enough of the rear axle clunking around so ordered a set of bushes for the watts linkage.
These polybush things are properly dickered, It looks like it's going to be a proper pain in the arse to get them out. If only some handsome fella had built a hydraulic press for this exact purpose...
Well, that's convenient.
Pressed the bushings out with relatively little resistance, then started pushing the new ones in.
I started by pushing the wrong one in the wrong hole, which made a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job. Yay!
I got there in the end. Managed to tear one of the rubber boots in the one i pressed into the wrong hole, so we'll see how long it lasts.
That cured the knocking nicely.
I also got myself a Foxwell NT530 to find out what's causing the three amigos. I have to say I'm impressed so far, it works well.
Trouble codes for 2 dead front ABS sensors and a problem with the shuttle valve.
The live data readings for the front wheel speed sensors show they're completely dead and don't register anything at all when the car is moving.
The shuttle valve is apparently shorted to ground but I haven't looked further into it yet.
The plugs on the ABS block look pretty good, no corrosion, but at some point in the past it has had the wiring buggered about with (fixed by farmers to the highest standard and wrapped in duct tape)
Truly, the gift that keeps on giving.
I haven't got my multimeter to hand, I'll have to check for continuity, grounding etc. this week.
With regards to the wheel sensors, is there any reason not to just buy two of these ?
Peace.
These polybush things are properly dickered, It looks like it's going to be a proper pain in the arse to get them out. If only some handsome fella had built a hydraulic press for this exact purpose...
Well, that's convenient.
Pressed the bushings out with relatively little resistance, then started pushing the new ones in.
I started by pushing the wrong one in the wrong hole, which made a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job. Yay!
I got there in the end. Managed to tear one of the rubber boots in the one i pressed into the wrong hole, so we'll see how long it lasts.
That cured the knocking nicely.
I also got myself a Foxwell NT530 to find out what's causing the three amigos. I have to say I'm impressed so far, it works well.
Trouble codes for 2 dead front ABS sensors and a problem with the shuttle valve.
The live data readings for the front wheel speed sensors show they're completely dead and don't register anything at all when the car is moving.
The shuttle valve is apparently shorted to ground but I haven't looked further into it yet.
The plugs on the ABS block look pretty good, no corrosion, but at some point in the past it has had the wiring buggered about with (fixed by farmers to the highest standard and wrapped in duct tape)
Truly, the gift that keeps on giving.
I haven't got my multimeter to hand, I'll have to check for continuity, grounding etc. this week.
With regards to the wheel sensors, is there any reason not to just buy two of these ?
Peace.
Re the Wheel sensors, the chances are the hubs are fecked so just buy two new hubs, they'll come with reluctor wheels, sensors and wiring. The hubs only have to be moving out of true by 1/2 a mm to make em go weird.I had enough of the rear axle clunking around so ordered a set of bushes for the watts linkage.
View attachment 279330
These polybush things are properly dickered, It looks like it's going to be a proper pain in the arse to get them out. If only some handsome fella had built a hydraulic press for this exact purpose...
View attachment 279331
Well, that's convenient.
Pressed the bushings out with relatively little resistance, then started pushing the new ones in.
I started by pushing the wrong one in the wrong hole, which made a 10 minute job into a 2 hour job. Yay!
View attachment 279332
I got there in the end. Managed to tear one of the rubber boots in the one i pressed into the wrong hole, so we'll see how long it lasts.
View attachment 279335
That cured the knocking nicely.
I also got myself a Foxwell NT530 to find out what's causing the three amigos. I have to say I'm impressed so far, it works well.
View attachment 279333
Trouble codes for 2 dead front ABS sensors and a problem with the shuttle valve.
The live data readings for the front wheel speed sensors show they're completely dead and don't register anything at all when the car is moving.
View attachment 279334
The shuttle valve is apparently shorted to ground but I haven't looked further into it yet.
The plugs on the ABS block look pretty good, no corrosion, but at some point in the past it has had the wiring buggered about with (fixed by farmers to the highest standard and wrapped in duct tape)
View attachment 279336
Truly, the gift that keeps on giving.
I haven't got my multimeter to hand, I'll have to check for continuity, grounding etc. this week.
With regards to the wheel sensors, is there any reason not to just buy two of these ?
Peace.
As for the ABS wiring on the block. There is a well-known fix and it looks as if the previous owner may have thought he got it and tried to fix it as it is the green/yellow wire he has been playing with. But he hasn't. We will help you with this!
I have a Foxwell pro 520 and really rate it for all this.
Last edited:
Tango91
Well-Known Member
There was going to be a picture of a shock absorber with a big broken off lump of chassis attached to it here, but the forum says I don't have permission to upload files here?
Hmm.
Oh well. Tomorrow she's coming off the road ready to be sawed in half. My welding lasted exactly as long as I needed it to as the Mrs is off on holiday tomorrow so I can use her stupid Citroen to get around.
On that note, does anyone know of any exhaustive lists of the bits that have to be disconnected or removed to lift the body off a D2? I've searched about but only found 'here's one i made earlier' type posts.
Just casting my mind around:
Steering Shaft
Brake lines
ABS sensors
Fuel pump, hoses, wiring
Radiator
Gear, transfer case and handbrake linkages
????
??
Hmm.
Oh well. Tomorrow she's coming off the road ready to be sawed in half. My welding lasted exactly as long as I needed it to as the Mrs is off on holiday tomorrow so I can use her stupid Citroen to get around.
On that note, does anyone know of any exhaustive lists of the bits that have to be disconnected or removed to lift the body off a D2? I've searched about but only found 'here's one i made earlier' type posts.
Just casting my mind around:
Steering Shaft
Brake lines
ABS sensors
Fuel pump, hoses, wiring
Radiator
Gear, transfer case and handbrake linkages
????
??
Do you have a big garage and some money to spend? Might be worth investing.
With the amount of time and love you're about to put in, it might really be worth considering, it'll probably help massively on your infinite war against rust.
https://www.terraintechparts.com/pr...DnVFp9dZrRRKXkE9ayKj_qzxvP4LTj5UaAu_3EALw_wcB
With the amount of time and love you're about to put in, it might really be worth considering, it'll probably help massively on your infinite war against rust.
https://www.terraintechparts.com/pr...DnVFp9dZrRRKXkE9ayKj_qzxvP4LTj5UaAu_3EALw_wcB
steve24v
Well-Known Member
This is how I did mine:-
After removing the battery I started at the back of the vehicle, removed bumper so the lights and trailer plug can be disconnected, you will also have access to the air pipe for the air bag compressor (if fitted), then disconnect the air pump plugs/ hoses (might not have to do this if you're not planning to keep it).
Gearbox has some electrical plugs to disconnect and also the hi/low linkage which is a clevis pin so easy enough. Will have to disconnect cdl linkage if fitted. Remove the gearnob,
Disconnect the steering linkage, clutch pipe heater hose on bulkhead and heater hose on the metal pipe on the engine.
Removed the 2 fuel lines engine end only and left it on the chassis. Removed plug on ecu and the 2/3 earth's that are near the fuse box, also the 2 big wires in the fuse box. Drain the steering/ace fluid and remove pipes from the tank.
Disconnect brake lines at the flexis in the nearside footwell.
Also remove the radiators/intercooler and coolant pipes.
Remove air filter/turbo hose and maf sensor plug,
If you have aircon, disconnect the 2 pipes at the pump
Undo the 2 nuts in the offside wheelarch that hold the bracket on for the vacuum lines.
If you have ace you will have a sensor on the offside sill that will need to be disconnected.
Then after the 14 bolts are removed you are ready to lift the body. Just go round and check you haven't missed anything while lifting.
After removing the battery I started at the back of the vehicle, removed bumper so the lights and trailer plug can be disconnected, you will also have access to the air pipe for the air bag compressor (if fitted), then disconnect the air pump plugs/ hoses (might not have to do this if you're not planning to keep it).
Gearbox has some electrical plugs to disconnect and also the hi/low linkage which is a clevis pin so easy enough. Will have to disconnect cdl linkage if fitted. Remove the gearnob,
Disconnect the steering linkage, clutch pipe heater hose on bulkhead and heater hose on the metal pipe on the engine.
Removed the 2 fuel lines engine end only and left it on the chassis. Removed plug on ecu and the 2/3 earth's that are near the fuse box, also the 2 big wires in the fuse box. Drain the steering/ace fluid and remove pipes from the tank.
Disconnect brake lines at the flexis in the nearside footwell.
Also remove the radiators/intercooler and coolant pipes.
Remove air filter/turbo hose and maf sensor plug,
If you have aircon, disconnect the 2 pipes at the pump
Undo the 2 nuts in the offside wheelarch that hold the bracket on for the vacuum lines.
If you have ace you will have a sensor on the offside sill that will need to be disconnected.
Then after the 14 bolts are removed you are ready to lift the body. Just go round and check you haven't missed anything while lifting.
steve24v
Well-Known Member
Thanks a million for the info Steve!
No worries mate, I had the same issue before I did mine, couldn't find anything online about lifting the body. Forgot to say (starting at the back and working toward the front), the back chassis/body mount bolts have captive nuts, the next 2 bolts have cutouts in the carpet under the middle row seats, next 2 you will likely have to cut the carpet under the front seats to gain access to the bolt heads. I cut the sill mounts off as the bolts were all rotted but there is a plastic plug to get access from the top in the footwells. The other 4 at the front are easy.
What are you lifting the body with?
steve24v
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that should work lol.
You didn't want to do it the sketchy way and use acroprops/Jack's then (like I did)
Tango91
Well-Known Member
In all honesty I'll probably use the big forklift. Once the bolts are out and everything's disconnected, pick the whole thing up, prop under the body and lower the chassis out from under it. But nice to have the option though. Did you just lift the body on the sills or specifically where the outriggers go?
steve24v
Well-Known Member
The body on these is heavy on the back end, I removed the 2 seats in the boot and folded the middle row forward to get the balance point a bit more centered (couldn't be arsed to take them out). I had Jack's under the sills and right on the back where the 2 body/chassis bolts go.
I cut a bit of 3x3ish inch wood to go on the sills (would recommend you cut a slot down the length of the wood for the lip on the sill to locate into, nearly shat myself when the body slipped off the wood lol).
I can't upload a pic but have a look on my build thread, there is one showing where I put the metal box section to support the body.
Tango91
Well-Known Member
Spent today prepping for the body removal. I got everything in steve24v's list except the body mount bolts, the rear bumper, and the fuel lines. I'm hoping to get it split apart tomorrow.
Everything was fairly straightforward until I got to trying to undo one of the unions that goes to the back brakes, in the NSF wheelarch, I managed to crush the nut and had to cut the metal line to get it properly apart.
I decided just to take the banjo fittings off the front calipers and zip tie them up out of the way to avoid having to repair/replace 3 lines instead of one...
A picture, if the forum lets me upload it (it didn't):
The 7 ton forklift was a big help in getting to things, and I left it lurking ominously when I went home for the evening.
Thanks to @steve24v again for his advice, roll on tomorrow
Everything was fairly straightforward until I got to trying to undo one of the unions that goes to the back brakes, in the NSF wheelarch, I managed to crush the nut and had to cut the metal line to get it properly apart.
I decided just to take the banjo fittings off the front calipers and zip tie them up out of the way to avoid having to repair/replace 3 lines instead of one...
A picture, if the forum lets me upload it (it didn't):
The 7 ton forklift was a big help in getting to things, and I left it lurking ominously when I went home for the evening.
Thanks to @steve24v again for his advice, roll on tomorrow
Tango91
Well-Known Member
Psst. Hey. Can you help me hide a body?
The only casualties, as far as I can tell, were a few rusted body mount bolts that had to be sacrificed for the greater good, and the plastic nipple for the vacuum hose on the brake booster which I didn't notice pulling until it was too late.
I had to hurry to clean up my tools and the considerable mess of dried mud and rust and get away so neglected to take any photos of the horror show that is the back of the frame.
Sorry.
Here's a photo of a baby cow i saw the other day instead.
The only casualties, as far as I can tell, were a few rusted body mount bolts that had to be sacrificed for the greater good, and the plastic nipple for the vacuum hose on the brake booster which I didn't notice pulling until it was too late.
I had to hurry to clean up my tools and the considerable mess of dried mud and rust and get away so neglected to take any photos of the horror show that is the back of the frame.
Sorry.
Here's a photo of a baby cow i saw the other day instead.
LincolnSteve
Well-Known Member
That calf is totally rust free. You should get one of those instead.
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Tango91
Well-Known Member
Got started this afternoon after work on prepping the disco for the chassis splittening.
First issue was the... considerable... amount of mud in and around everything on the chassis.
Dragged it into the wash bay, using the appropriate, totally not overkill equipment, for a hot jet wash.
Then took it in to make puddles inside the shed.
First I deleted the air compressor, hoses, brackets and accoutrements. I've saved the compressor itself with the vague notion of turning it into a tyre inflator in the unlikely event that this thing is ever back in one piece.
I pulled the back 2 sections of exhaust out. It's in decent nick but appears to be original, the back box is stamped 7/99!
Peeled up the loom and the fuel hoses and tied them off forward of the gearbox to keep them out of harm's way.
I was pleased to discover that under 1 3/4 inches of mud I appear to have a centre difflock shaft which moves with the aid of a spanner, I'll be bodging some sort of lever onto this to use in the future as I trust the traction control about as much as I would trust the dog not to eat ham left on the floor.
Cleaned it up a bit and it moves well between the detents with a satisfying thunk. Bargain.
Dog Tax, from work this morning.
The fuel filter housing fought me a bit but eventually came off.
Finally, I siphoned out most of the diesel and pulled the fuel tank, meaning that the suspension is more or less the only thing that needs to come apart at the back before the divorce.
Those rear brake lines are pretty crap and have obviously been replaced at some point with 'bend it yourself' line that was just laid on the chassis and not secured into the clips already provided on the chassis.
I'm probably going to just replace both the hard lines and the flexis all round as they're not in the best nick and I suspect that trying to remove them will break all the fittings.
It took bloody hours but it's looking more possible now than it was this morning.
I'll pick this up tomorrow and see where we can get.
On today's episode of 'things that were stored in the ocean':
Glad the front half looks substantially better...
I also managed to have a quick look at the body and figure out what was causing the passenger carpet to get wet.
Don't make me have to explain the joke.
Peace
First issue was the... considerable... amount of mud in and around everything on the chassis.
Dragged it into the wash bay, using the appropriate, totally not overkill equipment, for a hot jet wash.
Then took it in to make puddles inside the shed.
First I deleted the air compressor, hoses, brackets and accoutrements. I've saved the compressor itself with the vague notion of turning it into a tyre inflator in the unlikely event that this thing is ever back in one piece.
I pulled the back 2 sections of exhaust out. It's in decent nick but appears to be original, the back box is stamped 7/99!
Peeled up the loom and the fuel hoses and tied them off forward of the gearbox to keep them out of harm's way.
I was pleased to discover that under 1 3/4 inches of mud I appear to have a centre difflock shaft which moves with the aid of a spanner, I'll be bodging some sort of lever onto this to use in the future as I trust the traction control about as much as I would trust the dog not to eat ham left on the floor.
Cleaned it up a bit and it moves well between the detents with a satisfying thunk. Bargain.
Dog Tax, from work this morning.
The fuel filter housing fought me a bit but eventually came off.
Finally, I siphoned out most of the diesel and pulled the fuel tank, meaning that the suspension is more or less the only thing that needs to come apart at the back before the divorce.
Those rear brake lines are pretty crap and have obviously been replaced at some point with 'bend it yourself' line that was just laid on the chassis and not secured into the clips already provided on the chassis.
I'm probably going to just replace both the hard lines and the flexis all round as they're not in the best nick and I suspect that trying to remove them will break all the fittings.
It took bloody hours but it's looking more possible now than it was this morning.
I'll pick this up tomorrow and see where we can get.
On today's episode of 'things that were stored in the ocean':
Glad the front half looks substantially better...
I also managed to have a quick look at the body and figure out what was causing the passenger carpet to get wet.
Don't make me have to explain the joke.
Peace
steve24v
Well-Known Member
Looks like you had a fun day, brings back memories when I was at that stage of getting covered in crap.
I saved mine for this reason, but reading up on it, it seems you are wasting your time as its too slow and wouldn't last very long,. Which is a shame as everything is there except an air tank. Better off getting a compressor designed for it (can't remember the name of them though)
Keep up the good work
I saved mine for this reason, but reading up on it, it seems you are wasting your time as its too slow and wouldn't last very long,. Which is a shame as everything is there except an air tank. Better off getting a compressor designed for it (can't remember the name of them though)
Keep up the good work
