Little art

Little art

Active Member
Hi!

Sjah, where to start?

So we bought this d2 a half year ago.
Minor rust, some scratches halfway modified just for them looks. Winchbumper rear steel bumper rock sliders and some bf Goodrich terrain tiers,lightning on the roof, she likes it I don’t! Cause there round big and simply ugly.

So points of interest and maintenance

- (m)(s)(d) is blinking:) xyz switch I’d reccon
- still loss of power
-all dampers and springs +2”
-1new balloon (other is done in France last month;)
-breaks and spacers
-several or not all bushes(pu ones or genuine?)
-fluids
-2nd batterie
-winch?
-chassis protection
-sound as in new stereo ;) Done!
-ace mod (valve block leaking) Done

And al the rest i forgot

My question,....for now none...I guess.

Ah, stupid one...
Steel wheel caps on them wheel nuts do these come of while unscrewing them or do these stay on? Haha

Grtzz m from Holland where whether is quite nice today!
 
Hi again @Littleart, Stan here! Glad to see you got back safe from France, hope you enjoyed the festival!
On the wheels, the caps with dimples in are protecting the locking wheel nuts and do come off, else you cannot get the wheel off! The others stay on.
And don't jump too hastily to any conclusions regarding the XYZ switch. Do a search on here for it and you'll find many other reasons for the MSD lights coming on. In fact I think I read on here there can be 17 different reasons for it! The XYZ switch is expensive, unless you take it apart and rebuild it yourself, but the problem could be simply down to a chafed wire on top of the TB due to a P-clip. Especially if it is intermittent.
 
Those shiny anodised thin caps shouldn’t come off while unscrewing the nut as the caps are fitted in manufacturing. If you also have a security wheel nut which has a cap with the identification dimple in the top, then that cap has to be removed, assuming u have genuine parts wheel nuts fitted that is.
 
Re loss of power, you are not very specific about this but it could be sensor related, try disconnecting the MAF sensor. If that improves things, then you need a good quality MAF replacement. The other sensor on the inlet manifold, cannot remember its acronym for the moment, (MAP?), might need a good clean too. Good clean air filter? No collapsed inlet tubing? Intercooler clean inside and out?
Still cannot believe you have done all this work yet not needed to remove a road wheel!
 
Diskool, thnx nuts ‘n wheels are genuine.

Stanleysteamer, festival was great and for now full in business again :) so short time to scrape of items on the list.

Power loss isn’t urgent maf is disconnected and it took us home from France caravan included .

M s d is urgent cause it doesn’t drive properly. Did a lot of reading of course and checked wires, will do that again cause it’s easy. Other thing I can do by myself is check the xyz switch. Though it’s tucked away on a quite awful spot. Injected the connector with contact spray but, nope.

Read outs showing me no weird stuff and actually xyz is giving me signal as a readout
Reverse light is working.
 
Do you have nanocom, Hawkeye or test book.
Do the flashing m+s and D start as soon as you start engine, shortly after you drive away or some time after you drive away and does this occur every time you use car or just occasionally.
 
At first symptoms where ocasional first time in the middle of a terrific jam right in the center of Lyon. Right there where you are afraid of shutting down and restart. Then occasionally but after rebooting everything seemed fine. Now it’s at startup an car breaks down while breaking for stop signs etc. Taking off the xyz switch will do but not today, bbq is calling!

Roy, Hawkeye I have...
 
If the problem is electrical, within the gear position monitoring circuits and not just xyz switch the fault code P705 gear position switch incorrect outputs will be recorded in the eat (electronic automatic transmission) ecu, there being no diagnostic for just the xyz switch.
The problem with this fault is that once the eat ecu monitoring records this fault it sets the default position of flashing m+s lights and limp mode which continue until the ignition is completely turned off, so even if the fault is no longer present the default position is maintained until the ignition is turned off so you can never be sure if the fault is present or not.
However if the fault is present you may be able to narrow down where it is by comparing the outputs of the xyz switch as read by the bcu ecu, eat ecu and the table in the Rave workshop manual in the automatic gearbox section 44--12.
 
Last edited:
Haha, zo puzzling it is.
Fault codes my Hawkeye doesn’t really give or at least I didn’t see them...completely new on this ;p it shows codes didn’t compare next to rave.

So will be printing rave completely as iPad and other Mac stuff only show pdf

Okidoki, thnx
 
Look for 12/07/2019 post for d2 td5 uk version rave as this has a link to a pdf version of workshop manual from fuddymucker web site, use vdr link then look at fuddymucker site.
 
No, look back about 7 pages in this discovery forum for D2 td5 uk version and see my posts in this thread for search link.
 
Little update been busy,

Measuring the battery gives a normal 12,4v
When starting it drops down to 1st time 10,8v 2nd 10,6 3rd time 10,2 when running 14.4 v. So i’d Say not bad at all. Or is it?

Today the search goes on :)
 
Last edited:
So, 2inch up and a new steering damper.
And the good thing is when one exchanges old dampers for new ones +2” you don’t notice a change in behaviour. So yes +1 on drive ability.

Bought the wrong battery, or might someone know how to switch + and - ;) but i hope this solves the s/m/d problem

Good day today!
 

Attachments

  • F628E2E8-6EFE-459E-83C5-CB67A13C61BB.jpeg
    F628E2E8-6EFE-459E-83C5-CB67A13C61BB.jpeg
    354 KB · Views: 140
The previous owner to me must have also bought the wrong battery at some stage as his (now my) battery leads on my V8 D1 are overlong. But they do the job. Probably cheaper than buying a new batt.
Just put it in with the poles on the correct sides and go hunting in scrapyards for batt leads, see if you can find long ones. (Old Minis used to be good for that but probably not of a thick enough gauge nowadays anyway!) Ones of a truck or a van?
Or get ordinary ones and bolt them to the old ones. You'll need to insulate them properly, well at least the connection on the red one.
 
Stanleysteamer, looked for a solution and thought of that. Online the right battery is cheaper as the one I bought so Tuesday I hope msd is solved. Otherwise back to the garage next Saturday.
 
Thnx, in a proper garage it’s a lot of fun working on these cars
 

Attachments

  • 262041B9-7DB8-4E90-818E-D1C07BD9C4C8.jpeg
    262041B9-7DB8-4E90-818E-D1C07BD9C4C8.jpeg
    230.4 KB · Views: 133
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Goc3k
Discovery 1 SOLD 1997 300TDI manual D1, Winchester
Replies
16
Views
4K
Goc3k
Goc3k
Bushcrusher
Tyre pressure minefield! ! Does anyone know the answer?
2
Replies
23
Views
5K
Bushcrusher
Bushcrusher
ronsealdeath
1990 Range Rover Classic 3.9 v8i Auto
Replies
4
Views
2K
Shabs
S
H
Breaking my Discovery 300tdi in Portugal, all parts available, lots of off road kit.
Replies
2
Views
1K
Habibi
H
M
anyone beat this?
2
Replies
23
Views
3K
lerk
lerk