soms

New Member
Hi all, sorry to start another temperature thread. I did have a search through first to see if any of the other questions were the same as mine.

Basically over 3 years ago my head gasket was done on my 200tdi engine (original Defender engine).
One of the things which was replaced was the thermostat. Ever since then the running temperature has seemed somewhat high (see piccy). The engine will reach this temperature after about 2 miles and stays at this temperature.

I would also mention that I was not that impressed overall with the work on the engine; the glowplugs were left loose, the rocker cover bolts finger tight, so I can only hope the workmanship done on the interals was better, though it burnt more oil after and the performance doesnt seem to match some of the things written on here.

Anyway, the problem was that the engine overheated on the motorway following fitting a full width intercooler back last year. So the temperature issue became something to look at again. For the last year I have been running with a standard width intercooler instead. When the engine has reached that temperature is does not drop regardless until the engine is turned off.

The following has been done in the last week or two with no effect on the running temperature...

Replaced the thermostat with one supplied by an automotive wholesaler
Removed and thoroughly washed + flushed the radiator (it was rather packed with mud) and renewed lost coolant
Replaced the temperature sender today (with Britpart item corresponding to the correct item PRC8593)

The cooling system is working fine, the radiator is working, viscous fan working fine, the heater is hot etc etc. Waterpump was changed when timing belt was done couple of years ago. I believe the dash gauge is fine, it is the original and goes up smoothly and likewise goes down if the engine had been left to cool a bit.

Could this simply a case of having had the wrong thermostat both after the head gasket was done (I was told afterwards that this is the correct operating temperature) and the one I bought from the wholesaler (who asked me specifically what car it was for)?

Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
 

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Hi all, sorry to start another temperature thread. I did have a search through first to see if any of the other questions were the same as mine.

Basically over 3 years ago my head gasket was done on my 200tdi engine (original Defender engine).
One of the things which was replaced was the thermostat. Ever since then the running temperature has seemed somewhat high (see piccy). The engine will reach this temperature after about 2 miles and stays at this temperature.

I would also mention that I was not that impressed overall with the work on the engine; the glowplugs were left loose, the rocker cover bolts finger tight, so I can only hope the workmanship done on the interals was better, though it burnt more oil after and the performance doesnt seem to match some of the things written on here.

Anyway, the problem was that the engine overheated on the motorway following fitting a full width intercooler back last year. So the temperature issue became something to look at again. For the last year I have been running with a standard width intercooler instead. When the engine has reached that temperature is does not drop regardless until the engine is turned off.

The following has been done in the last week or two with no effect on the running temperature...

Replaced the thermostat with one supplied by an automotive wholesaler
Removed and thoroughly washed + flushed the radiator (it was rather packed with mud) and renewed lost coolant
Replaced the temperature sender today (with Britpart item corresponding to the correct item PRC8593)

The cooling system is working fine, the radiator is working, viscous fan working fine, the heater is hot etc etc. Waterpump was changed when timing belt was done couple of years ago. I believe the dash gauge is fine, it is the original and goes up smoothly and likewise goes down if the engine had been left to cool a bit.

Could this simply a case of having had the wrong thermostat both after the head gasket was done (I was told afterwards that this is the correct operating temperature) and the one I bought from the wholesaler (who asked me specifically what car it was for)?

Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
Where is the picture?
 
2 things one is you need to feel rad is hot all over surface to know its cooling efficiently ,and temp guages arent exact measuirng devices its when it moves further from std that you need to worry ,they havent got temp written on face because there not that accurate ,you may find it is a guage for earlier or later engine ,its more than likely guage just reads different at the same running temp as before the only real way of knowing temp of engine is to measure exact temp
 
When i first bought my defender and drove back 250miles from devon i was panicking the whole way back as the temp kept rising to where yours is in the pic, once i got it home flushing the rad made no difference.

After a quick google everyone seems to say the guages are not accurate, and if its anything like my volt guage that drops right down when a small light thats draws a tiny bit of power.

Personally i wouldnt worry ive towed a car 100miles with it in the red zone and never lost any water or boiled over. When i get round to it im going to fit a complete new sender and guage ( not landrover parts )
 
I had the same problem with a 110 I used to have, in the end the problem with mine was the earth connections from the battery to the chassis, I put a few new ones on directly to the block from the batttery and my gauge suddenly dropped down and my lights got brighter in to the bargain. You can get earth straps in halfords pretty cheap could be worth a shot.
 
I would be impressed if mine got to max temp after only 2 miles!
The stat you fitted did it have the bypass bit on the bottom, i bought one yesterday from bearmach 4 quid i think with gasket.
Mine had a britpart sta fitted by previous owner, from cold tmep would rise steadily up to approx 93 deg c then stat would open and temp would then stay at 85 gec unless worked really hard in which case it would run at 90 deg c.
New bearmach stat fitted and now warms up the same but now runes nearer 90 deg c all the time.
Good gauge e bay Tim capiliary gauge comes with all the right fittings for the stat housing etc 20 pounds


Lynall


Lynall
 

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