Flossie
Well-Known Member
I'm fiddling with modulation at the moment. Start car then connect nano at the car port, lead MUST be already connected at the nano end.
Click EDC then instruments, there are 3 choices of screens, the first 2 are useful, I think screen 2 is modulation.
Read it engine hot and at idle, should be 50% +/- 5.
Click EDC then instruments, there are 3 choices of screens, the first 2 are useful, I think screen 2 is modulation.
Read it engine hot and at idle, should be 50% +/- 5.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Yes that is correct and always turn the Nanocom off before disconnecting.I seam to remember Wammers saying dont start the car with nanocom connected, so i would assume you start motor then connect, i do stand to be corrected if wrong
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
tyke100
Active Member
So, done the nanocom thing by let the engine run.
I have no idea what I'm reading , what should and what is wrong. Lol.
So, in hope, someone knows about I post that in here.
There different readings, changing after a couple seconds, guess that is normal, , so I'm posting them all up.
Hopefully it tells is nothing serious. Lol
I have no idea what I'm reading , what should and what is wrong. Lol.
So, in hope, someone knows about I post that in here.
There different readings, changing after a couple seconds, guess that is normal, , so I'm posting them all up.
Hopefully it tells is nothing serious. Lol
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Idle speed is too low at 728, should be 750 minimum.
Battery voltage low at 13.6 not serious but need to change the alternator regulator to fully charge the battery, should be 14.5 allowing for volt drop to the OBD socket.
Modulation is way out at 88.13% should be around 50%. FIP timing needs adjusting to compensate for stretched timing chains.
tyke100
Active Member
Ah.
It always had about this rpm when idling after driving it around town for an hour.
Even before the start problems.
The voltage is because of lights on I have side steplight, so, more power drain when idle with interior lights on.
Usual it's about 14.2 to 14.4 without lights. ( I do have a lot extra stuff electrical running, dashcams and cctv rear to.)
How dos the fib adjustment work?
I seen loads of different stuff about this around pages.
Seem very technical and problematic.
It always had about this rpm when idling after driving it around town for an hour.
Even before the start problems.
The voltage is because of lights on I have side steplight, so, more power drain when idle with interior lights on.
Usual it's about 14.2 to 14.4 without lights. ( I do have a lot extra stuff electrical running, dashcams and cctv rear to.)
How dos the fib adjustment work?
I seen loads of different stuff about this around pages.
Seem very technical and problematic.
tyke100
Active Member
If I carry on scrolling with pages it tells me utilities and settings.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The load should not drop the voltage.
Modulation is your worst problem.
tyke100
Active Member
I always had this with most cars.
I know too much extra electronics fitted incl higher watt headlights.
Not having any problems on batterie or power since the new batterie.
Even with Heather it gos straight up to full once I move.
Is there a explanation or how to set the fib ? To get this modulation in order ?
Flossie
Well-Known Member
I think it's under utilities? I was only doing mine 2 days ago and I've forgotten already!
Try every page under EDC, it's there somewhere.
Don't be scared of the FIP adjustment,
I've done mine and it's easy, Data will send you the how to or I can with an email address. I didn't quite do exactly what data did ie- I didn't run with the inlet manifold off. I have a couple of extra tips too that I discovered make life a little easier when doing it.
Mine was around 85% now it's 49-52.
tyke100
Active Member
Any help appreacheated.
I have to look at the how to - the way it should, but not declining how you done it.
I send you my email direct .
The fib seems complicated and not the cheapest part including the exchange.
So, don't really want to break anything. Lol
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Yes
tyke100
Active Member
Right.
Tried to adjust the fib.
We.managed to get it by adjustung it down to about 67.
No more space to move it any further as it was done beforehand due seen the markings.
Still having hot start issues , but it is running on higher revs and more smooth, no indication of running issues like before ( similar to sparkplug hick ups, sorry , best to describe ).
But, it still had twice hotstart issues, where it taken again a while to start finally.
There is no more space to move the fib any more.
So, is there any other way to solve the problem without getting a new timing chain and let a garage change it?
I really have no intention to spend another 500 ( minimum estimated ) plus buying another car for a week as this is the estimated time for it being off the road.
Any other ideas are very appreciated.
Thank you
Tried to adjust the fib.
We.managed to get it by adjustung it down to about 67.
No more space to move it any further as it was done beforehand due seen the markings.
Still having hot start issues , but it is running on higher revs and more smooth, no indication of running issues like before ( similar to sparkplug hick ups, sorry , best to describe ).
But, it still had twice hotstart issues, where it taken again a while to start finally.
There is no more space to move the fib any more.
So, is there any other way to solve the problem without getting a new timing chain and let a garage change it?
I really have no intention to spend another 500 ( minimum estimated ) plus buying another car for a week as this is the estimated time for it being off the road.
Any other ideas are very appreciated.
Thank you
