tyke100

Active Member
1998 p38 2.5 d bmw 6 cyl automotive

Hiw many temperature switches dos that have please?
I did exchange a green one under the manifold.
Is there another one somewhere ? And if so, would anyone have the location and partnumber to hand.

Thank you
 
1998 p38 2.5 d bmw 6 cyl automotive

Hiw many temperature switches dos that have please?
I did exchange a green one under the manifold.
Is there another one somewhere ? And if so, would anyone have the location and partnumber to hand.

Thank you
There are 2 or 3 depending on year, one towards the front of the head, one near the middle and one towards the back which is not fitted on early cars and is just for over temperature so it can be ignored.
 
There are 2 or 3 depending on year, one towards the front of the head, one near the middle and one towards the back which is not fitted on early cars and is just for over temperature so it can be ignored.
The front one is brown ,the back one is black and is used to activate the a/c fans on later models if gets hot as posted.Ive found the printout but it hasn't got the part numbers sorry.Try lr.com I'd look for you but got a doctor appointment.
 
98 MY with EGR (probably AC) id guess your front sensor is a 2pin blue unit.
Think the 3rd black sensor (stc2254) came in ‘99 but it’s possible your engine could have it. If not it’s a blank

You can just take a look with a torch to check is best. Remember you are identifying the colour of the sensor not the connector on it ;)

Zoom in you can see
2D07B737-67DB-4B05-89FC-8D8675035091.jpeg
Sensor 1 - blue gauge sender (2 wires) /green connector
Sensor 2 - green ecu sensor/black connector
Sensor 3 - a blanking plate (if there’s one in there it’s the black one)

^^^ is early model yours may vary so take a peek on yours. If you have a brown sensor it’s stc 2253
 
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98 MY with EGR (probably AC) id guess your front sensor is a 2pin blue unit.
Think the 3rd black sensor (stc2254) came in ‘99 but it’s possible your engine could have it. If not it’s a blank

You can just take a look with a torch to check is best. Remember you are identifying the colour of the sensor not the connector on it ;)

Zoom in you can see
View attachment 252456 Sensor 1 - blue gauge sender (2 wires) /green connector
Sensor 2 - green ecu sensor/black connector
Sensor 3 - a blanking plate (if there’s one in there it’s the black one)

^^^ is early model yours may vary so take a peek on yours. If you have a brown sensor it’s stc 2253
Well done Jack, I was in a rush and got it wrong,the brown sensor I mentioned was fitted to the Omega cylinder head.:oops:
 
Cool
Thank you.
We replaced the middle one ( green ) but it was for the gauge I believe.
Don't have the rear one, even i do have Aircon.
It's a 1997 as far as I can tell from data on nanocom. Original engine.

I need the sensor going to the becm / ecu.
Just can't seem to get info from bearmarch or 4x4 Island on it as they only point to the green one for the gauge.
 
Cool
Thank you.
We replaced the middle one ( green ) but it was for the gauge I believe.
Don't have the rear one, even i do have Aircon.
It's a 1997 as far as I can tell from data on nanocom. Original engine.

I need the sensor going to the becm / ecu.
Just can't seem to get info from bearmarch or 4x4 Island on it as they only point to the green one for the gauge.
My listing was showing the green one for the ECU but the guy that gave it to me wasn't sure, switch the ignition on and pull the connector and see if the gauge stops working. If it does then the other is for the ECU.
 
Yes it dos

I had internitted harsh idling before , by driving or just let it run.
It was bad.
Now is sometimes but very slight.
( About 100 plus / minus for a couple seconds then back to normal )
Cold start is only on the dot when I let the plugs preglow twice, otherwise it takes a couple turns.
Hot start can be 5 to 10 engine turns sometimes.
Fib dosnt show any readings outside the norm and no other fault codes coming up.
Taking the new glowplugs out tomorrow and bench check them in case they not working properly.
 
The box the fuel filter screws into is a heater unit that can fail but not very often. Check the connector/wiring to it, but be careful the heat and age can make things brittle.
(Just re read your post looks like it’s working according to Nanocom)
 
Yes what I thought. I really rechecked nanocom a couple.times.and days making sure I missing nothing.

I will check this box and the connector, but also checking glowpligs on bench. Just in case.
Can't really think of anything else.
Batterie has full power, that was my first thought. Lol

And it has no problems while.its driving. Power or smooth running. All fine.
 
If you unplug the green sensor the becm should run on a preset value. If the sensor is faulty the preset value will ‘fix’ the issue, if you get what I mean

Check sensor 1 and 3 see what you have. Whatever sensors you need I will get the part number for you.
 
start with the simple stuff, one day Itl go right then you know what it was. When it runs smooth write all the Nanocom data down so you have a reference when something’s goes awry

People forget simple things - spill pipes, air filter, water separation chamber for example

This time of year plugs on their way out will give gyp like this. Cheapos are no good unless you change them twice a year. The guys will tell you what ones are best for the price. Berus are good.
 
Ok. Thanks.
Never thought about water separation chamber.
Airfilter is 3 month old.
Not changed the fuel filter.
It was my horror something could get wrong by it. Lol

That unplug idea - I understand it.
Worth a try I guess.
Even new can be faulty.lol
 
The box the fuel filter screws into is a heater unit that can fail but not very often. Check the connector/wiring to it, but be careful the heat and age can make things brittle.
(Just re read your post looks like it’s working according to Nanocom)
Isn't that fuel heater just part of the winter protection kit along the heated washers?
 

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