L9RCA

L9RCA

Member
Hi can anyone one sheaf some light on a temp gauge issue. I went and test drove a RR 4.6 on 2001-Y reg 116k.

I'm looking at buying this car and everything was worked well on the car which was a surprise apart from low gas in air on but went on a long test drive and temp gauge was perfect then after 20+ mins it spiked to red light for about 2mins an the dropped back to normal again. When I got back to the garage I let it cool and checked coolant which was low and needed topping up but it loads.
 
Check the viscous fan, get engine warm and try stopping the fan with a rolled up newspaper, if you get confetti then it's ok,if it stops then the coupling is buggered.
 
Thanks. The fan was running but good point and I will try when I go back this week will buy a copy of the sun as that's worthy of a shreading!
 
Sounds more like a water pump issue to me. Had one on an astra years ago that ran OK most the time then occasionally shot up. When it shot up, a good blip of throttle with the clutch in and all was fine again. Basically, the impeller was loose on the shaft so occasionally would stop turning and a good rev got it spinning again. New water pump and it was fine.
That said, wouldn't want to take a chance on the v8 because as far as I know, overheating is the worst thing in the world for them with the thin liner/block issue. If it were me, I'd steer clear. Who knows how many times it's been overheated?
 
When I initially collected my RR, I had to drive it about 6 miles to get petrol (imagine :rolleyes: ) and on the way the temp went into the red.

I turned on the heating and there was hot air so I kept going.

She was low on coolant, aprox 3 litres in all. A small drip from the throttle body (still the odd drip, but being watched).

Anyway, since then, no overheating and that was back in May.

If it had started blowing cold air, I would have worried.

But you NEED to trace the leak and see if it overheats again. It could be expensive...I was lucky, but then she had been laid up for 5 years prior to me getting her...
 
L9RCA said:
It's done 116k I think there was more water than proper coolant in the system.
Click to expand...
Walk away from it. If it's mainly water, it means a leak or regular overheating pushing coolant out. Either is bad! Plus, water will rot that very thin layer of cast alloy next to the liners quicker and lead to a very expensive repair in no time.
Just my opinion but there's plenty out there so just bide your time for the right one.
Good luck!
 
Could be looking at HG. Not a bad job but time consuming and a few hundred quid in parts.
 
Wazzajnr said:
Few hundred quid? Have head gasket sets gone up so much since I last did one? Yikes!
Click to expand...

It isn't the gasket so much as all the little other things. New valley gasket, bolts, Hylomar etc.

then how much damage do you do to heat shields etc?

Then while you're in there it'd be crazy not to replace the water pump and maybe the timing chain.

All adds up.
 
Very true,
Head skim near me is £40 a side....& if you haven't all the tools then it can rack up, torque wrench etc.
 
If you really want the car, you could have it checked by a land rover independent garage who knows these beasts inside out and get their opinion, this would give you the option of having it repaired properly by the seller or get it for a reduced price according to the price of the repair. Then have it put right with a guarantee. As said above, unfortunately the petrol version does have its own risks so you need to be sure before you part with your pound notes.
 
Our 1996 4.6, now on 185k on original engine and owned for 16 years, uses a pint of coolant every 2 to 3 weeks and has done for years.
Valley gasket renewed 3 years ago improved oil consumption, but water consumption remains the same!
Cylinder heads have never been off.....but a close eye has always been kept on under bonnet goings on......

Peter.
 
If you can find the leak, may be worth a punt. Heater o rings and throttle body heater are good places to start. If not - leave it.
 
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