Hi there...
During a recent trip to France the rear r.h. caliper decided not to release properly and as a result the brake pads on that wheel were worn down to the metal and the disc was badly scored. Ordered a new pair of rear discs and pads all round which I got a local French garage to fit.
A couple of weeks later-we had returned to the U.K., there was a loud screeching noise when the EPB was applied and also when released. On one occasion, the EPB wouldn't release. Managed to get the EPB to release using the emergency cable and since then have not used the EPB and as always, left the car in "Park" mode.
I suspect that the Garage did not adjust the rear brake shoes correctly, if at all.

Decided to remove the discs, inspect the shoes and inspect the EPB actuator for damage as I suspect the internal nylon gear(s) are damaged. The discs were removed and broken sections of brake lining less than 1mm thick fell out of both sides and one shoe was completely devoid of lining material-luckily the drum surfaces were not scored.

Next step was to remove the cables and actuator which is mounted above and towards the rear of the rear diff. Biggest problem was removing the brake cable "P" clips as the bolt heads securing them to the chassis were rusty and badly corroded, these bolts were located high up on the chassis and there was very restricted access-anyway with much perseverance, managed to get them out and release the cables.
The manual states that the EPB Actuator bracket should be removed and this is retained by 4 bolts accesible after removing the spare wheel, from above the plate which is fitted between two rear chassis crossmembers- these bolts are also corroded and immovable with tools due to the very restricted access between the plate and the body. I managed to remove the two rusted nuts which hold the Actuator to the bracket with a Dremel.

After disconnecting the propshaft at the rear diff. to give more room and put the suspension in Extended height mode I was able to release the Actuator from it's bracket (The Brake cables are still attached to it) but the unit is fouling on the diff. flange slightly, enough to prevent it's removal.

Would welcome any constructive advice from anyone who has encountered this job before. I am aware that Disco Mikey has put a good post on here for unjamming the EPB in- situ and have looked on You Tube where it appears that the range Rover Sport has easier access and the clip relating to the Disco 3
omits to show the actual removal from it's location to where he pulls it out from the car complete with the cable attached and onto the bench for strip down and repair.

Apologies if this post is long winded but I wanted to give as much info as possible.

Just done mine. Once actuator is loose from its bracket you can tilt it forward and use a torx bit to undo the 8 bolts holding the actuator cover. Then pull/ lever using stubby driver the cover off. You’ll see a brass rod on the right hand side, this needs turning downwards, I used a small cold chisel and hammer to start it turning then revolve manually using the stubby driver. It winds fully to the left and then using a small set of waterpump pliers I applied pressure until it clicks and it’s then re latched. Spray some grease in there then silicone cover back on. And reassemble.
All done facing rear of the car, took around 6 hours as access is difficult.

Hi Johnlad...Thanks for your quick reply, appreciated
I am pretty sure that the gears are stripped in the gearbox inside, it's making that sort of a noise.
Those M8 flanged bolts with a 10mm hex. head that LR use are absolutely rubbish especially when they are used underneath the car as the heads just rust away to being rounded. Tried a set of damaged bolt removers because there is, as you know very restricted access and no room for using small stillsons etc.
The amount of extra space required to get it out doesn't seem to be much-maybe it will come out if I remove the lid to reduce it's thickness-any thoughts on that John ??

Thought access to the fuel pump belt when I also did the Cambelt was tight but looking back, it was a piece of cake compared to this job !!! Reckon it may have finished up as a body off job if it had gone to a garage

That screeching noise is normal once it’s jammed, I’d certainly try to unjam whilst on the car, if the gears are stripped there won’t be any resistance when unwinding the brass rod. The lid is about 2mm thickness don’t know if that makes any difference

Thanks again Bud...
I'm going to try and get the cover off anyway so I will give that a go.
Looking at the new gears I have bought, one of them is a gear around 25mm diameter with a spindle turned on it, on the underside of it there are "Ratchet" type teeth cut around it.A small pinion gear with corresponding "Ratchet" teeth on one end slides on to the spindle and this has a spring which is retained by an "E" clip. I feel this acts as an overload device so that if there is excessive torque the smaller gear can jump over the ratchet and this would probably give the screeching noise.
What I forgot to mention in my first post is that my diagnostics are giving "Latching Fault"

Irishrover said:

Thanks again Bud...
I'm going to try and get the cover off anyway so I will give that a go.
Looking at the new gears I have bought, one of them is a gear around 25mm diameter with a spindle turned on it, on the underside of it there are "Ratchet" type teeth cut around it.A small pinion gear with corresponding "Ratchet" teeth on one end slides on to the spindle and this has a spring which is retained by an "E" clip. I feel this acts as an overload device so that if there is excessive torque the smaller gear can jump over the ratchet and this would probably give the screeching noise.
What I forgot to mention in my first post is that my diagnostics are giving "Latching Fault"

Click to expand...

Good luck with it, so far it’s the worst job I’ve done on mine, actual job easy just hard work getting to it. Incidentally the cover is well stuck on once the bolts are out

Thanks for your response
UPDATE
After getting underneath this afternoon, decided to have another jiggle of the unit and it came out easily complete with both brake and emergency cables attached. Undoing the large plastic cable nuts on the unit gave more flexibility to move the unit.

Managed to strip it down and the white sensor with the ribbon cable was detached from the main actuator shaft.
Disconnected the r.h. brake cable from the sensor with the latch...can anyone tell me what the sensor detects as it seems to have no moving parts.

Next disconnected the l.h. cable which has a l.h. thread. I found that the cable was screwed fully in to the actuator shaft. Looking at the manual it states that the cable must be screwed into the actuator shaft 5 full turns only, that was causing the jam.

Decided to remove the motor/gearbox and found one of the nylon gears was stripped, luckily I had purchased a spare set.

So it's rebuild time but I have to sort out some suitable stainless self tapping screws for the cover as the original Torx had rusted heads. Also have to get a couple of M6 Bobbin type rubber mounts as I cut through th originals in order to release the unit from it's mounting bracket-no big problem with those-there are plenty on Ebay.

Irishrover said:

Thanks for your response
UPDATE
After getting underneath this afternoon, decided to have another jiggle of the unit and it came out easily complete with both brake and emergency cables attached. Undoing the large plastic cable nuts on the unit gave more flexibility to move the unit.

Managed to strip it down and the white sensor with the ribbon cable was detached from the main actuator shaft.
Disconnected the r.h. brake cable from the sensor with the latch...can anyone tell me what the sensor detects as it seems to have no moving parts.

Next disconnected the l.h. cable which has a l.h. thread. I found that the cable was screwed fully in to the actuator shaft. Looking at the manual it states that the cable must be screwed into the actuator shaft 5 full turns only, that was causing the jam.

Decided to remove the motor/gearbox and found one of the nylon gears was stripped, luckily I had purchased a spare set.

So it's rebuild time but I have to sort out some suitable stainless self tapping screws for the cover as the original Torx had rusted heads. Also have to get a couple of M6 Bobbin type rubber mounts as I cut through th originals in order to release the unit from it's mounting bracket-no big problem with those-there are plenty on Ebay.

Click to expand...

Hi

Don’t know if you’ve seen this link but just in case u haven’t thought I would share the link , near the end of the manual shows ref setting the epb up

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11748/Bodsys_Brake_Bible_V1_6a_CompressPics.pdf

The sensor detects how much force is out into the cables

Think I’ve got a link ref the screws , will have a look for u

Plus some other links

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/epb-repair-unjam-relatch-91299.html



https://rfq74g.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mCl5CHYTLf-cSQCVySk-QnaY_A_5UGTDobJQbWT69oyqBRTiNIX8kfjgqzMftfqS6I0ZV0GA38Uio6OxL882PEFbDT1qAUg0Kt3PxeTYH7IIS6uL0IxordFUoGLd-CYTpwDD9QqPYzUXl8lcbXtao-pcqHwjBCTVSuGIof0m0sZspVjen6ViDJTfmVC86l3IsGLqrXGtp8-w-NnMqIueC7w/description and operation parking brake.pdf?download&psid=1

Ref ur torx screws, found out there T20 but not the thread size, see u have a post in the D3 forum and someone should answer , if I find any links to some will post it for u

gstuart said:

Hi


Don’t know if you’ve seen this link but just in case u haven’t thought I would share the link , near the end of the manual shows ref setting the epb up

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11748/Bodsys_Brake_Bible_V1_6a_CompressPics.pdf

The sensor detects how much force is out into the cables

Think I’ve got a link ref the screws , will have a look for u

Click to expand...

Hi Gary...Belated Happy New Year Bud
Thanks for your info, you kindly sent me this link a while ago and I have printed a copy off. Very handy it is too.
I have realised after this PITA job how you must have gone with your rear suspension overhaul !!

Will try and put a few pics up on the inside of the Actuator module when the cables are connected. The L.H. cable is the only one that has adjustment at the drive link as it has a L.H. threaded rod attached to the cable which screws directly into the end of the drive link which is rotated by the motor and gearbox. The R.H.cable is attached to the sensor rod and the other side of the sensor has a hook latch which locates into the other end of the drive link. When the brake is applied, the drive link rotates and it tensions both cables simultaneously until the tension sensor detects the correct tension and stops the motor.when the brake is released, the motor polarity is reversed and tension on the cables is released.

Irishrover said:

Hi Gary...Belated Happy New Year Bud
Thanks for your info, you kindly sent me this link a while ago and I have printed a copy off. Very handy it is too.
I have realised after this PITA job how you must have gone with your rear suspension overhaul !!

Will try and put a few pics up on the inside of the Actuator module when the cables are connected. The L.H. cable is the only one that has adjustment at the drive link as it has a L.H. threaded rod attached to the cable which screws directly into the end of the drive link which is rotated by the motor and gearbox. The R.H.cable is attached to the sensor rod and the other side of the sensor has a hook latch which locates into the other end of the drive link. When the brake is applied, the drive link rotates and it tensions both cables simultaneously until the tension sensor detects the correct tension and stops the motor.when the brake is released, the motor polarity is reversed and tension on the cables is released.

Click to expand...

The Workshop manual states that if the L.H. cable is removed from the Actuator or replaced it must be screwed in 5 full turns only to the drive link.

Irishrover said:

Hi Gary...Belated Happy New Year Bud
Thanks for your info, you kindly sent me this link a while ago and I have printed a copy off. Very handy it is too.
I have realised after this PITA job how you must have gone with your rear suspension overhaul !!

Will try and put a few pics up on the inside of the Actuator module when the cables are connected. The L.H. cable is the only one that has adjustment at the drive link as it has a L.H. threaded rod attached to the cable which screws directly into the end of the drive link which is rotated by the motor and gearbox. The R.H.cable is attached to the sensor rod and the other side of the sensor has a hook latch which locates into the other end of the drive link. When the brake is applied, the drive link rotates and it tensions both cables simultaneously until the tension sensor detects the correct tension and stops the motor.when the brake is released, the motor polarity is reversed and tension on the cables is released.

Click to expand...

Hi mate

Many thks and same to u , alas I’ll be laid up for a few months after emergency back surgery

Glad it helped and indeed the epb isn’t in a very easy place to reach , ur not wrong there ref the rear suspension, that was a royal pita, one of the worse jobs and all because the bolts were seized , but learnt a huge amount if I have to do it again , main issues were getting the right tools, ie bush pullers etc

Also see there are companies that offer epb refurb , but as u say the cogs are available online

Hope all goes well and thks as that would be great ref some piccies

Hi Gary...best wishes for a speedy recovery. Hope it's not too long before you are back in action with the spanners

Found some stainless Pozi Self Tappers which should solve the rusty screw problem. Waiting for a couple of M6 Bobbin type rubber mounts to come for the Actuator, I had to cut through the originals as the nuts were rounded due to the corrosion.
When I start putting it back all the cable clip bolts & nuts will be replaced with Stainless and given a coat of Copper grease.

Haven't seen Philips Disco/Rangie on Ebay yet for Spares or Repair - I see it didn't take JLR long to fix him up with a Hippo !!!

Irishrover said:

Hi Gary...best wishes for a speedy recovery. Hope it's not too long before you are back in action with the spanners

Found some stainless Pozi Self Tappers which should solve the rusty screw problem. Waiting for a couple of M6 Bobbin type rubber mounts to come for the Actuator, I had to cut through the originals as the nuts were rounded due to the corrosion.
When I start putting it back all the cable clip bolts & nuts will be replaced with Stainless and given a coat of Copper grease.

Haven't seen Philips Disco/Rangie on Ebay yet for Spares or Repair - I see it didn't take JLR long to fix him up with a Hippo !!!

Click to expand...

Hi mate

Many thks, fingers crossed will be back on my feet by spring

Glad u found some screws and a good idea with stainless steel, I done the same when I fitted new intercooler hoses, got silicone ones and the stainless steel T bolt clamps

Saw that on the news, certainally didn’t take long for JLR to sort it out, us commoners would be waiting for weeks, lol

Hope all goes to plan

Well it's sorted!!!

Removal of the unit is a pain, especially if the mounting bracket bolts are rusted to hell on the bolt heads. I managed to cut the top mounting nuts off with a Dremel. bought replacement ** M6X20mm long** Bobbin type rubber mounts off Ebay for a fiver (Qty.4)-only needed two.
Trying to remove the unit with the brake cables still attached is virtually impossible as it's like trying to wrestle with two Anacondas as they prevent free handling. I disconnected the rear propshaft at the rear diff to give much improved access. Both cable plastic nuts were disconnected after manouvering both cables through their respective wheel arches. The r.h. cable is held by a plastic clip with two tags that have to be prised outwards with a couple of small flat bladed screwdrivers, the clip is then slid along the cable and the metal nipple on the end of the cable unhooked from the actuator latch block. The l.h. cable is then pulled out from the actuator until it stops. The cable has a left hand threaded screw so needs to be rotated clockwise to undo-it should only be attached to the actuator by approx 5 full turns.
With the cables (Apart from the emergency release cable) disconnected and the electrical connector released the unit came out with a bit of jiggling from the front through the gap created by the disconnection of the propshaft.
Upon removal of the cover it could be seen that the l.h. cable square "Nut" which is actually a guide and also stops the cable from turning, had jammed against the end of the actuator shaft. The cable screw had travelled it's full length and the latch to which the r.h. cable is connected had become detached from the hooked overload.
Disconnected the motor and removed the actuator shaft to allow the gearbox cover to be removed. It was found that two of the nylon gears inside the box had stripped teeth...I had purchased a set of replacement gears beforehand for about £37.00.
Replaced and greased the gears, refitted the actuator which was also greased,re-engaged the latch and refitted the parts.Removed the old RTV sealant from the cover and resealed.
Gave the two lower rubber mounting bungs a good coating of Silicone grease, fitted the new rubber Bobbin top mounts and refitted the box onto the mounting bracket.
Reconnected the r.h. cable to the unit Insert the Bung ensuring that the lugs line up with the notches on the actuator thread and tighten up the large plastic nut . Next the l.h. cable was screwed into the end of the actuator shaft, remember that it's a l.h. thread so turn anti clockwise-the manual states that it should be inserted 5 full turns only. Ensure that the square "Nut" is aligned with the opening and push the cable in-it should move freely in & out. Insert the Bung ensuring that the lugs line up with the notches on the actuator thread and tighten up the large plastic nut. No need to go overboard tightening the large plastic nuts-hand tight is fine as long as the cable is held firmly onto the actuator.
Wrestle both brake cables to their original route and secure.
TIP..
Give the rubber grommets that attach to a forked type bracket on the chassis a dose of Silicone or Rubber grease and they will slide in easier than if they are dry and the bracket is bound to be rusty which doesn't help !!
Would be much easier if the car is raised on a hoist but if needs must !!

All in all not the best job I have undertaken but doable and it's saved me a fortune in garage bills and the cost of a new unit..

NOTE**
I have edited the original post .
The first paragraph referred to the M6 Bobbin type mounts as "M6X20mm dia," it has been changed to M6X20mm Long. Sorry for the error.

Irishrover said:

Well it's sorted!!!

Removal of the unit is a pain, especially if the mounting bracket bolts are rusted to hell on the bolt heads. I managed to cut the top mounting nuts off with a Dremel. bought replacement M6X20mm dia Bobbin type rubber mounts off Ebay for a fiver (Qty.4)-only needed two.
Trying to remove the unit with the brake cables still attached is virtually impossible as it's like trying to wrestle with two Anacondas as they prevent free handling. I disconnected the rear propshaft at the rear diff to give much improved access. Both cable plastic nuts were disconnected after manouvering both cables through their respective wheel arches. The r.h. cable is held by a plastic clip with two tags that have to be prised outwards with a couple of small flat bladed screwdrivers, the clip is then slid along the cable and the metal nipple on the end of the cable unhooked from the actuator latch block. The l.h. cable is then pulled out from the actuator until it stops. The cable has a left hand threaded screw so needs to be rotated clockwise to undo-it should only be attached to the actuator by approx 5 full turns.
With the cables (Apart from the emergency release cable) disconnected and the electrical connector released the unit came out with a bit of jiggling from the front through the gap created by the disconnection of the propshaft.
Upon removal of the cover it could be seen that the l.h. cable square "Nut" which is actually a guide and also stops the cable from turning, had jammed against the end of the actuator shaft. The cable screw had travelled it's full length and the latch to which the r.h. cable is connected had become detached from the hooked overload.
Disconnected the motor and removed the actuator shaft to allow the gearbox cover to be removed. It was found that two of the nylon gears inside the box had stripped teeth...I had purchased a set of replacement gears beforehand for about £37.00.
Replaced and greased the gears, refitted the actuator which was also greased,re-engaged the latch and refitted the parts.Removed the old RTV sealant from the cover and resealed.
Gave the two lower rubber mounting bungs a good coating of Silicone grease, fitted the new rubber Bobbin top mounts and refitted the box onto the mounting bracket.
Reconnected the r.h. cable to the unit Insert the Bung ensuring that the lugs line up with the notches on the actuator thread and tighten up the large plastic nut . Next the l.h. cable was screwed into the end of the actuator shaft, remember that it's a l.h. thread so turn anti clockwise-the manual states that it should be inserted 5 full turns only. Ensure that the square "Nut" is aligned with the opening and push the cable in-it should move freely in & out. Insert the Bung ensuring that the lugs line up with the notches on the actuator thread and tighten up the large plastic nut. No need to go overboard tightening the large plastic nuts-hand tight is fine as long as the cable is held firmly onto the actuator.
Wrestle both brake cables to their original route and secure.
TIP..
Give the rubber grommets that attach to a forked type bracket on the chassis a dose of Silicone or Rubber grease and they will slide in easier than if they are dry and the bracket is bound to be rusty which doesn't help !!
Would be much easier if the car is raised on a hoist but if needs must !!

All in all not the best job I have undertaken but doable and it's saved me a fortune in garage bills and the cost of a new unit..

Click to expand...

Good job mate that u got it all done

May i ask did u get some stainless steel torx for the cover , if so what size did u use plse

Many thks and hats off to u

Hi Gary....The originals were Torx self tappers but I had some Stainless Pan Head Pozidrive self tappers No.8 X 3/4" long and they worked a treat. The casing & lid of the actuator housing is moulded plastic. They use RTV as a seal for the lid...can't see why as there is an open breather hole in the lid about 8mm dia.

Hope this helps Bud

Irishrover said:

Hi Gary....The originals were Torx self tappers but I had some Stainless Pan Head Pozidrive self tappers No.8 X 3/4" long and they worked a treat. The casing & lid of the actuator housing is moulded plastic. They use RTV as a seal for the lid...can't see why as there is an open breather hole in the lid about 8mm dia.

Hope this helps Bud

Click to expand...

Many thks for the info , very helpful

Found this link , ref No. 8 x 3/4" equates to 4.0mm x 19mm

https://www.gwr-fasteners.co.uk/no-...elf-tapping-screws---a2-stainless-20298-p.asp

That’s weird ref the 8mm breather hole

Thks again

@Irishrover , May i ask where abouts is the hole please in the epb

Ahh...it's where what looks like a bung, to the right of the label is located. There was not a bung fitted on mine.

That said, there were no visible signs of water or dirt ingress inside the unit when I took the cover off, everything looked as clean as a whistle.