I've seen dozens of L322 4.4 with LPG for sale in the past on ebay, just search L322 spares or repairs !
It is my opinion that the LPG converted 4.4s suffer more with timing chain guide failure, could just be coincidence though.

I think there was a run of Jaguar 4.4 petrol engines made before going to or alongside the 4.2 supercharged in 06 but might be wrong.
If i was going to buy one now on a budget it would be the 4.2 SC, or 5.0 if the budget allowed.

holidaychicken said:

I've seen dozens of L322 4.4 with LPG for sale in the past on ebay, just search L322 spares or repairs !
It is my opinion that the LPG converted 4.4s suffer more with timing chain guide failure, could just be coincidence though.

I think there was a run of Jaguar 4.4 petrol engines made before going to or alongside the 4.2 supercharged in 06 but might be wrong.
If i was going to buy one now on a budget it would be the 4.2 SC, or 5.0 if the budget allowed.

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thks, would u also consider the TD6 ok, are they the ones that suffer from gearbox issues

must admit would one day like to own one, do indeed like the later L322 over the P38 , as looking ahead after the D3 i’m not sure if u would go for a D4/ L322 or indeed even a FL2 , only thing is i like the air suspension and it’s versatility, with having a bad back it’s a joy just being able to drop the suspension and helps getting in and out , along with the quality of ride , first time i’ve had a landy with air suspension and got to admit am very impressed

alas needs abit more looking after but all the time i can work on it myself will continue to own one with the air suspension , D3 is my favourite so far, well it’s half range rover anyway, lol

I've never driven or even been in a newer disco, i think they are probably a little more industrial compared to the RR, {dont mention FL or the Evoque or you will be black balled from the RR forum }

The TD6 is not bad but the GM box isn't great but the reputation comes from a lot of people being able to afford the 100k miles vehicles which is when they tend to go South and the other problem being is when the torque converters fail they ruin the whole transmission whereas on the ZF box you can get away with just a TC. A good td6 with a properly refurbed and uprated transmission including the valve body would probably be fine for many thousands of miles. The problem is the TC fails and the transmission is rebuilt with new TC but the underlying valve body issue isn't addressed quite often which then only buys you another 10k miles before they fail again. Like with any car, getting an honest history or overview of the vehicle before you purchase it is worth more than anything.
Air suspension can be weak on the older 02-06 vehicles and constantly raising and lowering the suspension will soon expose its petticoat but again a well maintained EAS system would be fine but there are quite a few parts to it that need to be cared for or replaced.

holidaychicken said:

I've never driven or even been in a newer disco, i think they are probably a little more industrial compared to the RR, {dont mention FL or the Evoque or you will be black balled from the RR forum }

The TD6 is not bad but the GM box isn't great but the reputation comes from a lot of people being able to afford the 100k miles vehicles which is when they tend to go South and the other problem being is when the torque converters fail they ruin the whole transmission whereas on the ZF box you can get away with just a TC. A good td6 with a properly refurbed and uprated transmission including the valve body would probably be fine for many thousands of miles. The problem is the TC fails and the transmission is rebuilt with new TC but the underlying valve body issue isn't addressed quite often which then only buys you another 10k miles before they fail again. Like with any car, getting an honest history or overview of the vehicle before you purchase it is worth more than anything.
Air suspension can be weak on the older 02-06 vehicles and constantly raising and lowering the suspension will soon expose its petticoat but again a well maintained EAS system would be fine but there are quite a few parts to it that need to be cared for or replaced.

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better make sure i watch my F words then to get accepted into the rangie section , snigger

when i first got my D3 i couldn’t believe the bodges and taken me nearly a year to sort them all out, after the air suspension kept messing around i first looked at the compressor and could see where someone had tried to repair it, silicone everywhere , on fittings , struts , valves etc

am just about to replace the other front passenger side strut, done the drivers side a few months back, have replaced , compressor , air tank, air lines, front and middle valve block

now have the following items to fit
meyle HD front / rear drop links, NSF strut , ( bought genuine dunlop’s ) , ARB bushes for front and rear , rear and last valve block, all the oils and filters to do gearbox, transfer, engine, diffs

then finally got the rear upper wishbones and all 6 x rear brake lines , hoses , again all genuine

wanted to get everything in order to go through the entire vehicle and sort it out in one hit, also got all new cooper
AT / 3 tyres

then finally update the transfer boxes software , which is supposed to take out the slack feeling as u slow down and back on the gas pedal, or another work i’ve heard it called is california stop

indeed i think with any vehicle it will always bite u if u ignore things and not sort them out properly , as we all know things on these vehicles can end up as money pits, ive always done a lot of preventive maintenance

also think some people don’t realise what’s involved, coming unstuck as soon as they buy them , when something goes wrong , or just try and make do when we all know that doesn’t work,

however i know LZ members really look after there landies and they don’t want for anything , ensuring there well so well looked after

alas seen a few who try and ask how to bypass airbags , disabled ABS etc only because they wish to cut corners

did the TD6 always have the GM box please , has anyone tried to retrofit a ZF box, front what i’ve read the TD6 is suppose to be a good one,was it the BMW M57

don’t know how the L322 and D3 compare with cost of parts etc, many moons ago saw a rangie greenlaning and also off roading and very impressive , don’t think some people realise how good they are

couldn’t agree more ref service history , have yet to find an advert match the actual condition of the vehicle for sale, lol

have test driven a few L322 , think they had an access suspension button by the drivers door , also like the proper switches and gear-lever, not like the electronic buttons and gear dial on the later models

also been looking and indeed as u say there a lot of LPG rangies for sale, have been reading up abit more ref pros and cons of the different things between a diesel and LPG petrol model. , something also about the V8 dropping liners etc , still the later D4 s got big issues with snapping cranks

blimey apologise am bleeding gassing again

gstuart, post:

did the TD6 always have the GM box please - Yes as far as i know

has anyone tried to retrofit a ZF box - Never heard of anyone doing it - its hard enough getting all the ECUs to talk to each other when they are supposed to, I think we only hear about the bad ones because we are on a forum for solving problems, i would imagine there are thousands of units working quite happily and with the right updated sonnax valve body they are probably fine.

, front what i’ve read the TD6 is suppose to be a good one,was it the BMW M57 - Yes very reliable if looked after i have read - crankcase breather can lead to turbo problems which can lead onto run on situation, there is an updated breather that solves the problem.

have test driven a few L322 , think they had an access suspension button by the drivers door , they do

also been looking and indeed as u say there a lot of LPG rangies for sale, have been reading up abit more ref pros and cons of the different things between a diesel and LPG petrol model. , something also about the V8 dropping liners etc - that's the P38 v8 - basically a bored out rover 3.5 to within a micron of it's life ,

still the later D4 s got big issues with snapping cranks -2.7 tdv6 i think
The 4.4 M62 BMW engine in the 02-05 suffers with the plastic timing chain guide failure which i think is made worse by LPG - that might be me talking crap though.

holidaychicken said:

gstuart, post:

did the TD6 always have the GM box please - Yes as far as i know

has anyone tried to retrofit a ZF box - Never heard of anyone doing it - its hard enough getting all the ECUs to talk to each other when they are supposed to, I think we only hear about the bad ones because we are on a forum for solving problems, i would imagine there are thousands of units working quite happily and with the right updated sonnax valve body they are probably fine.

, front what i’ve read the TD6 is suppose to be a good one,was it the BMW M57 - Yes very reliable if looked after i have read - crankcase breather can lead to turbo problems which can lead onto run on situation, there is an updated breather that solves the problem.

have test driven a few L322 , think they had an access suspension button by the drivers door , they do

also been looking and indeed as u say there a lot of LPG rangies for sale, have been reading up abit more ref pros and cons of the different things between a diesel and LPG petrol model. , something also about the V8 dropping liners etc - that's the P38 v8 - basically a bored out rover 3.5 to within a micron of it's life ,

still the later D4 s got big issues with snapping cranks -2.7 tdv6 i think
The 4.4 M62 BMW engine in the 02-05 suffers with the plastic timing chain guide failure which i think is made worse by LPG - that might be me talking crap though.

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many thks for the great info and extremely informative

also on the 2.7 the oil pump cover , mainly from 2007 but alas heard them going from 2005 , is to do with a weakness in the casing , seems ref the crank that the shells spin, cutting the oil off and causing them to snap, with no warning what so ever

i got the oil pump cover, front and rear belts , tensioners , aux belt , all replaced , also had the water pump changed at the same time seeing it was all apart

other issues are compressor , bushes around 40-50,000 miles , pads , but not surprising due to the weight

I knew somebody that had a disco with the crank problem, had it rebuilt and it did the same thing within about a week I think it was - was sold as spares or repairs after that.

holidaychicken said:

I knew somebody that had a disco with the crank problem, had it rebuilt and it did the same thing within about a week I think it was - was sold as spares or repairs after that.

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bloody hell. bet he was well pleased , Not, currently for a recon engine is around 5k

read a few where the disco has wanted for nothing , no warning what so ever and engine finished within 30x secs

where owners have taken it up with JLR they don’t want to know and not offered any kind help , even where they’ve bought the disco from new , had it serviced each year with there local land rover dealer

Land Rover can be good like that !

gstuart said:

bloody hell. bet he was well pleased , Not, currently for a recon engine is around 5k

read a few where the disco has wanted for nothing , no warning what so ever and engine finished within 30x secs

where owners have taken it up with JLR they don’t want to know and not offered any kind help , even where they’ve bought the disco from new , had it serviced each year with there local land rover dealer

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I would have parked it outside the main stealers plastered with signs stating how helpful they had been.

tomcat59alan said:

I would have parked it outside the main stealers plastered with signs stating how helpful they had been.

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u would get some smarty salesman come out and ask u if u want a brochure for a new landy

gstuart said:

u would get some smarty salesman come out and ask u if u want a brochure for a new landy

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He would have walked back like a penguin with his brochure as a tail.

tomcat59alan said:

He would have walked back like a penguin with his brochure as a tail.

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lol, along with a size 9 implanted and brain wobble with the abuse

UPDATE , From 30/4/18


wished to share an update and progress ref the turbo issue , which is relevant to the early sport and D3 2.7 TDV6

apologises about the pics, can’t brighten them any more as i’ve only got the ipad , so restricted with picture editing software

issue is overboost , so as i progress i can add details and onto final fix over the months , which will i hope help others in the future

entire turbo hasn’t got any oil leaking apart from the horizontal hose on the left

one concern is the short hose has a bulge in the middle ???

jubilee clip on the left hose was slightly loose, knew it couldn’t stay like that as there’s oil around that hose, nipped up the jubilee clip, worm is too worn and won’t tighten up properly , so will have to remove more panels and fit a T bolt style clamp which i’ve got

some of the black paint is a little bit of overspray where i used sone dinotrol and not oil

tested actuator arm, can see on travel it’s notchy , will get better access once i take the arch liner out

so my next port of call will be

1) remove strut, ( being replaced anyway )
2) remove wheel arch plastic liner and heat shields
3) replace turbo intercooler hoses with silicone ones and T bolt stainless steel clamps
4) replace the left hand hose with yet again T bolt clamp and check the back for any splits
5) if access is really bad will remove the top wishbone as the strut will be out of the way and doesn’t req re alignment , ( only the bottom wishbone req realignment if taken off )

thks again

Work cut out getting in there Gary....!

.......

apologises , got both threads put together

will update only this thread so it keeps it all together

Mr S1 said:

Work cut out getting in there Gary....!

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hi mate

indeed, once i’ve got the heat shields and strut out of the way will see what kind of access i’ve got

will then decide if i’ve got to remove the upper wishbone, in order to replace hoses, jubilee clamps , etc

nothing like a challenge , he says, lol

The idea of a variable rate turbo charger is to provide better boost at lower RPM. Making the boost more linear over the rev range. If the vanes stick at low RPM boost position you will get over boost at higher RPM. If the vanes stick at high RPM boost position you will get little boost at lower end of rev range. Simple as that.

wammers said:

The idea of a variable rate turbo charger is to provide better boost at lower RPM. Making the boost more linear over the rev range. If the vanes stick at low RPM boost position you will get over boost at higher RPM. If the vanes stick at high RPM boost position you will get little boost at lower end of rev range. Simple as that.

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may i ask were they designed to replace the wastegate type of turbos , also to reduce turbo lag

my over boost will only happen over 50mph or if i boot it , indeed and put my hands up it’s a big learning curve for me

from ur description it sounds like the vanes are sticking at low revs as if i boot it from low down it certainally doesn’t hang about

findings so far is the actuator as i watch it look slightly notchy , maybe the vanes are chocked up with carbon

also the horizontal hose on the left has oil around it, loose jubilee clip which when i tried to tightened wouldn’t because of the worm broken , alas though i don’t know if that’s enough to cause the overboost issue

once i get more covers off and then the hoses will then use a borascope to see if indeed it’s full of carbon, looks as though spraying oven cleaner in there or if it’s indeed better to buy some turbo cleaner and spray it directly in there

will of course update the thread and as always very grateful for the help and expertise

thks