busakaz

Active Member
Hi Lads /lasses

When i put it into drive it seems to take a few seconds to take up drive why is this, but out driving around the gear change is that smooth you carn't feel it change gear :).
I have done everything by the RAVE, it only does it on the first time you engauge drive seems like you have to build up pressure or something.

Thanks guys
 
morning Keith, yes and yes.
Oil checked at the correct temperature?
If it's any consolation, when my P38 has stood for a week, as it usually does, pull away can be quite sluggish unless I wait a few seconds or blip the throttle before engaging drive. I assume it's oil drain down.
I think on the L322 there is a fancy controlled oil cooler, could be that.
 
Oil checked at the correct temperature?
If it's any consolation, when my P38 has stood for a week, as it usually does, pull away can be quite sluggish unless I wait a few seconds or blip the throttle before engaging drive. I assume it's oil drain down.
I think on the L322 there is a fancy controlled oil cooler, could be that.
ok,its not causing a problem just curious that's all,what i will do then is run it for 500mls and then dump it, what do you think.
 
What is this is says nothing of this in RAVE, this came from FF wiki.

Reset the transmission/ gearbox controller (with ignition off, push accelerator pedal to the floor; ignition to position 2; continue holding accelerator pedal to floor for 60s; ignition off; pedal release)
 
What is this is says nothing of this in RAVE, this came from FF wiki.

Reset the transmission/ gearbox controller (with ignition off, push accelerator pedal to the floor; ignition to position 2; continue holding accelerator pedal to floor for 60s; ignition off; pedal release)

This is supposed to reset the Gearbox Adaptive Settings....

The Gearbox learns two main things...one is how you drive and the other is the wear and slack in the drive clutches.

The first: As you drive, you tend to make similar traits like how hard you accelerate or how quickly you brake, what the main road types you drive on, etc. The Gearbox ECU 'learns' the way you drive and can adapt gear change points and selects a more appropriate gear at a given point that matches as best it can your driving habits!

The Second: The gearbox adjusts hydraulic pressure and modulation to the drive clutches based on their level of wear and slippage...over time the clutch plates wear and more hydraulic pressure is required to stop them from slipping and also it takes longer for them to engage as the clutch piston has further to travel (I know it is fractions of mm's but it still takes a little longer for the clutch to fully engage the gear) the gearbox measures the slippage and how much pressure the clutch is requiring (through PWM of the Solenoid valve) and adapts its settings to ensure correct and complete clutch engagement.

With new fluid which has better characteristics than the old fluid, this *can* change the hydraulic clutch engagement settings the gearbox ECU has learnt over a period of time with old fluid...the new fluid in effect confuses the ECU.

Not sure if the above 'trick' works to reset the gearbox adaptions, as I tried it and didn't really notice any significant difference...I do know gearbox adaptions can be reset using diagnostics on the BMW's the L322 is based on...

My L322 (Petrol) takes a second or so to engage drive.....selct D and you then get a slight pause and then the car dips as drive is taken up then off you go....generally you don't get this pause on the P38's as the initial selection of drive gear is mechanical and not hydraulic like the L322's
 
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This is supposed to reset the Gearbox Adaptive Settings....

The Gearbox learns two main things...one is how you drive and the other is the wear and slack in the drive clutches.

The first: As you drive, you tend to make similar traits like how hard you accelerate or how quickly you brake, what the main road types you drive on, etc. The Gearbox ECU 'learns' the way you drive and can adapt gear change points and selects a more appropriate gear at a given point that matches as best it can your driving habits!

The Second: The gearbox adjusts hydraulic pressure and modulation to the drive clutches based on their level of wear and slippage...over time the clutch plates wear and more hydraulic pressure is required to stop them from slipping and also it takes longer for them to engage as the clutch piston has further to travel (I know it is fractions of mm's but it still takes a little longer for the clutch to fully engage the gear) the gearbox measures the slippage and how much pressure the clutch is requiring (through PWM of the Solenoid valve) and adapts its settings to ensure correct and complete clutch engagement.

With new fluid which has better characteristics than the old fluid, this *can* change the hydraulic clutch engagement settings the gearbox ECU has learnt over a period of time with old fluid...the new fluid in effect confuses the ECU.

Not sure if the above 'trick' works to reset the gearbox adaptions, as I tried it and didn't really notice any significant difference...I do know gearbox adaptions can be reset using diagnostics on the BMW's the L322 is based on...

My L322 (Petrol) takes a second or so to engage drive.....selct D and you then get a slight pause and then the car dips as drive is taken up then off you go....generally you don't get this pause on the P38's as the initial selection of drive gear is mechanical and not hydraulic like the L322's
Thanks Ant,very good, you are full of information arn't you :D So why dont it say this in RAVE ?.

Hippo, Do you do this when you changed your oil ?

Cherrs guys
 
Oil checked at the correct temperature?
If it's any consolation, when my P38 has stood for a week, as it usually does, pull away can be quite sluggish unless I wait a few seconds or blip the throttle before engaging drive. I assume it's oil drain down.
I think on the L322 there is a fancy controlled oil cooler, could be that.
In RAVE it says :- The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 35c-45c the reading obtained will be incorrect if the fluid is outside this temperature range.

Is this normal opperating temperature as i have no way of getting these readings....?
 
In RAVE it says :- The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 35c-45c the reading obtained will be incorrect if the fluid is outside this temperature range.

Is this normal opperating temperature as i have no way of getting these readings....?

You can get temp via diagnostics

I left mine running for 10 mins
The fluid was running hot but not enough to burn me when I let the excess dribble out of the filler hole
 
Normal temp of fluid is much much higher near the 100 mark...

As Hippo says 10 minutes of running will get you close...

I used a Fluke Temperature meter...can be done with a laser thermometer on the outside of the pan!
 
You can get temp via diagnostics

I left mine running for 10 mins
The fluid was running hot but not enough to burn me when I let the excess dribble out of the filler hole
I only have allcomms

It only takes me 10mins to get home from work so if i drain of the access that should be ok then.
 
Normal temp of fluid is much much higher near the 100 mark...

As Hippo says 10 minutes of running will get you close...

I used a Fluke Temperature meter...can be done with a laser thermometer on the outside of the pan!
Ant, i have a laser thermometer at work i will borrow that then.
 

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