moveitall said:
Thanks to myfirstl322 I think I will attempt to remove piston and re-insert dust cover and then proceed to bleed brakes. Really appreciate the advise. I'll let you know how I get on later this week.
Click to expand...

If there is rust on the lip of the cylinder you MUST remove that before trying to get piston out or you will damage piston seal. Odds are you will rip the old boot trying to replace it. New boots are easy to fit. Better to get a repair kit. Use brake fluid or better still rubber grease to lube inside of boot. If you must do it, boot is stretched over piston with lip that fits inside cylinder overhanging. Lip is located into rebate then piston is pushed through it to lock it in place. Outer end of boot is then pulled over until it also locates in it's rebate. Most old perished boots will tear doing this.
 
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ebay item number; 26121 2794 389, seal kit. P.s. If you buy kit, usually it comes with silicone grease, DO NOT put this on the seal, it is for the slider pins on the carrier only.
 
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Will attempt to pop-out piston and re-seat dust cover tomorrow.

I contacted local stealer and they quote over £17 for seal kit, but couldn't confirm what is actually in the kit....they seem to think a piston may come with the kit....how professionally inspiring is that...even when they contacted their tech department, they couldn't confirm either???
 
moveitall said:
Will attempt to pop-out piston and re-seat dust cover tomorrow.

I contacted local stealer and they quote over £17 for seal kit, but couldn't confirm what is actually in the kit....they seem to think a piston may come with the kit....how professionally inspiring is that...even when they contacted their tech department, they couldn't confirm either???
Click to expand...

That's possibly because no one in their repair department will ever have done one. :D
 
moveitall said:
Will attempt to pop-out piston and re-seat dust cover tomorrow.

I contacted local stealer and they quote over £17 for seal kit, but couldn't confirm what is actually in the kit....they seem to think a piston may come with the kit....how professionally inspiring is that...even when they contacted their tech department, they couldn't confirm either???
Click to expand...

I doubt it will include piston at that price,, probably just the boot and seal if your lucky, they would rather sell you a caliper at £180+ no doubt...

Stealers don't get bogged down in the refurbing side of things, just fitting shiny new parts and plugging you into a fancy laptop that would give someone a fantastic income on its own.

Calipers are identical to BMW 5 series and X5 i believe, '' ATE '' brand.
 
Took the caliper off today...discovered it was very badly pitted and corroded. Seals were in tact, however when I tried to replace piston, after to tidying the piston with 600 wet/dry, I couldn't get it to go back in, it totally jammed solid on me.....tried mole grips to free...but all to no avail. Gave up and went to my local Europarts and got a new remanufactured one by Pagid for £69.96 which included exchange of the old one.

I think if one had the patience and time with an air compressor a nice work bench vice etc then possibly a seal kit with new pistons....hey presto!!

Anyway jobs a good'en now and thanks to all and sundry for the encouraging words of advise.

Forgot to mention that this is a BMW caliper E35 Europart no: 133111211.
 
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moveitall said:
Took the caliper off today...discovered it was very badly pitted and corroded. Seals were in tact, however when I tried to replace piston, after to tidying the piston with 600 wet/dry, I couldn't get it to go back in, it totally jammed solid on me.....tried mole grips to free...but all to no avail. Gave up and went to my local Europarts and got a new remanufactured one by Pagid for £69.96 which included exchange of the old one.

I think if one had the patience and time with an air compressor a nice work bench vice etc then possibly a seal kit with new pistons....hey presto!!

Anyway jobs a good'en now and thanks to all and sundry for the encouraging words of advise.

Forgot to mention that this is a BMW caliper E35 Europart no: 133111211.
Click to expand...
As I said at the start.............................
 
It's working fine doesn't pull to the left as you might suspect but that's because it's been replaced.

And as for Datatek's comments......."As I said at the start.............................?"

Are you trying to take the credit for my hard work?
 
ALWAYS replace brake and steering components in Axle sets i.e. both sides on the same axle...not doing so is folly.

You may not notice the difference now, but in the case of an emergency, I personally wouldn't want to find out....
 
moveitall said:
It's working fine doesn't pull to the left as you might suspect but that's because it's been replaced.

And as for Datatek's comments......."As I said at the start.............................?"

Are you trying to take the credit for my hard work?
Click to expand...

Not at all, but always said replace it.
 
myfirstl322 said:
And if he popped it out and replaced seal and fixed it that way, he would have save himself a week and 50 quid.
Click to expand...
And if he'd tried to sand out the pitting following your advice and the seal failed?
If you can't afford £70 for a new caliper you can't afford to run a Range Rover.
You are certainly not one of God's children.
 
Just for the cynical and paranoid out there......I put it on a rolling road brake test at MOT station and conclusion absolutely fine.

And so the moral is???? :)
 
moveitall said:
Just for the cynical and paranoid out there......I put it on a rolling road brake test at MOT station and conclusion absolutely fine.

And so the moral is???? :)
Click to expand...
Moral is - Change Brake and Steering components in axle sets...

You have been lucky, many may not be so fortunate....better safe than sorry!
 
Nonsense. Yes replace discs in pairs, pads in pairs, shockies in pairs, but having a new and old caliper on axle is fine as long as they both work equally.
The pedal pressure and caliper action is still the same,
you dont get sudden caliper failure, and if old one on other side of axle was that bad you would feel it.
I fully approve of best practice, but in this instance no,
off course, his old caliper will surely need looked at long before the new one... but that is fine.

Calipers don't burst, seals leak but don't give way,
off much greater importance is regular fluid changes and regular inspections of flexible brake lines, these will fail dramatically without warning. Also, lest we forget modern split systems!!!

And well done to Moveitall for having his repaired brakes checked on rolling road btw, good practice.
should have mentioned that.
 
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