Sierrafery can you explain solenoids don't get proper feed anymore. You reckon it needs replaced. I thought if cleaning it had helped I was on the right track and then I would replace it.
 
cleaning the ECU helps a bit from time to time but not always, the oil is isolator and might affect a bit the contacts at the ECU too and feel some improvement in some cases but the problem is not there.... the problem begins at injector loom's plugs which are connected to the solenoids and there starts the ingress through those plugs and the contacts there are much more affected... the simple fact that the oil got untill the ECU means that you need to replace that loom asap or you can't diagnose further untill this thing is not perfect cos there isnt a clear pattern, it can give various symptoms in most cases missfire
 
I will replace the loom but you reckcon its not likely to be my problem. Meaning replacing the loom is not a fix for my problem but simply stop oil reaching the ecu plugs.
 
on the contrary... it's very likely to be your problem... but it's so common issue that too few of us would think that when somebody comes with an issue this thing was not ruled out already
 
if after that the problem still persists we'll speak then but you can't go further with the diagnose untill this thing is not fixed... go for genuine
 
So I replaced the waste gate modulator, no different. I have also fitted a new injector harness and cleaned all the excess oil from all plugs etc. No different. Thought I would do the fuel purging procedure and realised the fuel pump is not running. Is it possible that the car will still run with the fuel pump not working.
 
it can run for a short while with the pump not working ... at least that's a proof that system doesnt loose pressure;)
 
To tell the truth I've been driving it for 5 days now but don't take it over 2500rpm. I'll need to research a pump now
 
Today I started to have issues with revs.
My 2001 td5 auto, seems lack of power and will not rev over 3000rpm.

No fault codes, MAF is working properly, tried with it disconnected and no difference. Turbo is working properly as I'm getting the same 220kpa on road even at lower rpm.

The only thing that I guess it's the fuel pump.
Now, the question, how long can it drive in this way? Is it real to drive the car approx.1week until I receive the new pump?
The car starts fine and drives normal at low rpm.
 
Depends on how well sealed the fuel circuit is... If that's the probem not else you can drive it on LP for long untill air gets in it or the residual pressure drops one way or another then it will die, there's no rule for it
 
Ok, another question.
It may be a coincidence, but today I welded a little the exhaust. Sure I removed the battery cable, but the car started to drive worse just after that.
Can be the cause in welding? Could this welding melt the pump even with no connection through chassis?
 
catalyst has not been mounted on this car as it is an EU2 pre-facelift.

today I wanted to remove the centre silencer, and then I did some welding on the exhaust. after noticing the lack of power, I reinstalled the centre silencer but the car still drives worse than previously
 
There are Eu3 "transition" pre-facelifts from 2001 that's why i asked... i can't see how welding would have affected the pump... no fault codes in the engine ECU ?
 
no fault codes in the engine ECU, no fault codes in the automatic transmissions either, EGR blanked 3 years ago, tried to replace the wastegate valve - no change, tried the wastegate rod - not stuck, tried to adjust a little - no change.
when parked the revs go up to 3800rpm, when driving, not more than 3000rpm. and at that point, they are waving a little (lower-upper-lower-upper)
 
ok, I will order a new fuel pump.

if I am not wrong, I remember from russian forums, that there is no difference in Defender and Discovery fuel pumps, except fuel level sender. is that correct? can I order a defender pump if it's more affordable?
 
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