S

Sam Warder

Member
Hi all,
I have just replaced one of my front wheel bearing, put it all back together and there still seems to be some play when you grab the bottom of the wheel and push it back and forth. Anyone got any ideas what that could be?

Just gone to Check the old bearings one of them had a spacer attached to it that I didn’t realise. Does that go on the backside or the front?
 
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Are you sure it's the wheel bearing at fault?
TD5 should have a seal at the back of the hub, then the inner bearing, then a spacer, then outer bearing, then a thick washer and then a stake nut.
There is a multitude of different spacers to compensate for bearing tolerance.
If I was you I would ditch the spacer and use the 2 nut method like the 200tdi to hold the bearing in place, infact I have just done that this weekend.
 
Anaconda said:
Are you sure it's the wheel bearing at fault?
TD5 should have a seal at the back of the hub, then the inner bearing, then a spacer, then outer bearing, then a thick washer and then a stake nut.
There is a multitude of different spacers to compensate for bearing tolerance.
If I was you I would ditch the spacer and use the 2 nut method like the 200tdi to hold the bearing in place, infact I have just done that this weekend.
Click to expand...
I’ve also replaced my td5 bearings with the two nuts
 
Ok I would assume because one of the spacers is missing the bearings will have space on the shaft to move, in my bearing kit I have got another nut like one for a 200tdi. Can I still use the Td5 nut, so do the 200tdi nut then washer then Td5 nut or shall I get another 200tdi nut
 
You need to remove the spacer, fit the thick washer, fit a 200tdi nut, fit a 200tdi lock washer then fit another 200tdi nut.
You also have to follow the process of doing up the inner nut and outer nut before bending over the lock washer onto both nuts.
 
Hi all have replaced the wheel bearing and done the 2 nut method but I still have up and down moment when you grab the top and bottom of the wheel compared to the other side where there is no movement at all
 
Use a bar under tire and then look behind to see where movement is, just the wheel or is the whole swivel housing moving up and down?
Have you done 2 nut method right? Do up first nut up tight then back off a flat at a time until wheel spins with ease but no side to side up down movement. Fit tab lock washer then second nut done up tight.
Part of lock washer bent over inner nut, part over outer.
 
There are shims that can be remove. Look up " setting swivel housing preload" on the you tube.
 
tottot said:
There are shims that can be remove. Look up " setting swivel housing preload" on the you tube.
Click to expand...
If there’s a good bit of play, they don’t usually last after removing a shim. I tried that a couple of months ago to save doing the bearings and it was fine for about a week, then the top bearing collapsed
 

Watch the above playlist of videos.
In general check side to side movement for wheel bearings and top an bottom of wheel for swivel play.
 
I have ordered a swivel rebuild kit and new hub just incase the hub is warn then I’ll also rebuild the swivel to make sure the bearings haven’t collapsed
 
My favourite subject, swivel bearings.

The shims, or more accurately their removal, allows the pin to push down harder in the bottom of the bush. That makes it harder to turn and is why a value is given to the amount of force needed. Good in a new bush.

The forces trying to slide the pin sideways, forwards and backwards are far bigger than that turning one, and eventually the pin crushes the vertical sides of the bush. If you try to stop the pin going walkabout around the bush by taking shims out you're just buying a little time - the end of the pin just carves out the flat bottom of the bush because the sides are no longer helping.
 
Never agreed with the two nut, single stake n use the right spacer = all good.


Video above producer has several videos about how to fit right spacer, running this on td5's for 14 years all good.

See my TD5 project build thread for Swivel rebuild / replace and bearings etc
www.landyzone.co.uk

TD5 90 Project

I bought this as a fixer upper. got it in 2011. It was very tatty, rusted winch on front white powder n silver chq plate sides and happy shopper side bar steps things made of rust and black bubble paint! Its Epsom Green had I found some white wolf wheels (and put 7.5 ZXL Mich) which match the...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
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KISSMYAURA said:
Never agreed with the two nut, single stake n use the right spacer = all good.


Video above producer has several videos about how to fit right spacer, running this on td5's for 14 years all good.

See my TD5 project build thread for Swivel rebuild / replace and bearings etc
www.landyzone.co.uk

TD5 90 Project

I bought this as a fixer upper. got it in 2011. It was very tatty, rusted winch on front white powder n silver chq plate sides and happy shopper side bar steps things made of rust and black bubble paint! Its Epsom Green had I found some white wolf wheels (and put 7.5 ZXL Mich) which match the...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...
Well, that's all well and good if the "specialist" uses the correct spacer, the correct torque and stakes the nut over. Three out of four of mine have come loose as the nut hasn't been fitted correctly. I couldn't be bothered to buy a bunch of spacers and one use nuts so changed to the two nut method as we have them in stock for son's Ninety.
 
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