W

wotsizname

New Member
Hi, my 90 TD5 is gradually becoming more difficult to start. Even when it has started and been run then stopped even for a few minutes it becomes difficult to start again. The engine turns over fine but does't always fire although it does try. If I wait for pump to complete the prime cycle then go through bleed procdure once or twice it will eventually fire then start. And once started it will run fine without any issues or lack of power.

So far the injectors seals and copper washers have been renewed and so has the air bleed valve on fuel filter housing . There is no non return valve on filter housing. There is also no sign of any fuel leaks from FPR. I have also checked ECU and no sign of oil on wiring or connectors.

Any ideas as to the source of problem would be very welcome.
 
I had a slow starting issue which was down to a heavily corroded fuel filter housing, so much so it was drawing air in! Check my thread for more details..
 
There are quite a few threads on here relating to TD5 Starting, there are a few potential weak spots in the fuel system and its sometimes difficult to diagnose but it seems getting air or combustion gas into the system is one of the favorites to cause the problem.
Fuel pump in the tank whining when you turn on the ignition is a sure sign.
 
Won't be glow plugs...

Like said above it's probably air...

Try fuel filter housing

Check the relays for the pump and glow plugs

Try another set of injectors if that doesn't work then compression check
 
Wouldn't air in the system produce roughy running tho.?! I would certainly check injectors to.
 
does it bump start ok? The starter motors can cause problems with noose on the crank position sensor and stop them starting even though they turn over fine.
If it's a bugger to bump it's not the starter motor
 
Also worth checking cps I had some very odd intermittent starting isssues which I eventually traced back to the cps, now starts first time all the time
 
Edit: aargh, missed the part that the valve mentioned below was already replaced.

There are a check valve and air bleed valve in the connections to the filter housing. Part numbers WJN500110 and VUB503950, shown as nos 14 and 13 on the pic.
When these fail, fuel flows back to the tank and air enters the fuel lines.

Also see https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-air-bleed-valve-in-fuel-filter.140965/

This helped a fellow clubmember who experienced the same problems here in Belgium recently, only after he replaced lots of parts...

Greetings,

Joris

( I just signed up to be able to reply and will take care of my introduction later).
 

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I had this problem with a year 2000 td5 90, it was a bugger to start in the mornings, but ran perfectly when started, the longer you left the worse it was to start.

the problem was the fuel filter fixing where you screw the filter onto had a slight hairline crack and it was enough to let air in, replaced the filter assembly and all was good
 
Fuel filter housing replaced but still havethe problem! It does start on the button occasionally but at other times a real faf. Wondering if it can be an electrical issue.
 
As jay222 says try the CPS. I have had a similar problem with poor starting and it was the CPS wiring that had cracked near to the connector the wiring was gunged in mud and oil making the CPS give spurious signals to the ECU when starting.
My solution was to replace the wiring back to the ECU using two runs of single core screened cable from Maplins. It now starts on the button every time hot or cold.
It is worth a look at.
 
Well, got round to changing CPS which was oiled up but no difference. Then examined relays especially Fuel Pump and that improved issue for a few days. So got a new relay but still get occasional problem. It cranks over really well and I find if I slightly depress the accelerator pedal it will start!!
 
Sounds like you might be onto something. mine benefits from a clean-up of the contacts where the relay pins meet the spade connectors, and where the multiplug joins the fuel pump. Also, the point where the wires are crimped into the terminals gets rather green, so I've peeled the insulation back a few more millimetres and crimped the terminals again onto clean copper, with a drop of solder on this time to ensure good continuity and keep the green stuff at bay. It sounds like you're nearly there and it just needs a few more things to get it running well.
 
wotsizname said:
Well, got round to changing CPS which was oiled up but no difference. Then examined relays especially Fuel Pump and that improved issue for a few days. So got a new relay but still get occasional problem. It cranks over really well and I find if I slightly depress the accelerator pedal it will start!!
Click to expand...
Out of interest where did you get the relay? I have been going through my TD5 making preemptive strikes on any bits which may give problems.
I am working on the box under the driver seat at the moment which leaks water since I had my new chassis fitted, but I am dammed if I can find out why, and when the weather picks up I intend to upgrade my wiring loom.
I took out the relays under the seat and cleaned them then sprayed a bit of WD40 onto the shoes, but they must be feeling their age now.
 
I've been using this sort of thing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R4-Land-R...920660?hash=item465eaa2914:g:QpkAAOSwPCVX2pTH which is suitable for several of the under-the-driver's-seat applications. The pin configuration differs from the bog standard relays you get in Halfords. Or rather the pins are in the same places but what's different is which ones operate the switch and which ones take the load. Checking the diagram on the packaging and/or embossed on the relay saves much frustration.
 
Brown said:
I've been using this sort of thing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R4-Land-R...920660?hash=item465eaa2914:g:QpkAAOSwPCVX2pTH which is suitable for several of the under-the-driver's-seat applications. The pin configuration differs from the bog standard relays you get in Halfords. Or rather the pins are in the same places but what's different is which ones operate the switch and which ones take the load. Checking the diagram on the packaging and/or embossed on the relay saves much frustration.
Click to expand...
Cheers
I looked at them, seems to be loads of people selling second hand relays, wonder where they all come from?
Once I had the part number I Googled it and found these : http://www.citycarparts.co.uk/rover...-v23134-b52-x127-12v-siemens-tyco-12277-p.asp
Thought I would give them a try.
 
That looks a bit more respectable. Maybe I'll get some too, so I've got a couple of spares to keep in the car.
 
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