Ray I know it’s expensive but a genuine MAF will make a noticeable difference as opposed to the vdo one! They last longer too, mine runs different until it’s up to temp too, and so did my previous td5 engined disco, if yours starts from cold like you say then I wouldn’t worry to much
 
Ray I know it’s expensive but a genuine MAF will make a noticeable difference as opposed to the vdo one! They last longer too, mine runs different until it’s up to temp too, and so did my previous td5 engined disco, if yours starts from cold like you say then I wouldn’t worry to much
I'm beginning to think you are right, it's so strange that it fires up instantly and when it's hot it runs better than I ever heard it before, may be time to bite the bullet.
 
All the engine management sensors should be genuine LR not just the MAF cos they are all involved in fuelling calculations(ECT, FT, MAP/IAT as well) ..for such symptoms a live data log from a drive is the only way to figure out things
 
All the engine management sensors should be genuine LR not just the MAF cos they are all involved in fuelling calculations(ECT, FT, MAP/IAT as well) ..for such symptoms a live data log from a drive is the only way to figure out things
I will give that a go tomorrow, going to warm it up before I take it for its MOT
 
Well ran it this morning, started it cold then did a quck check over so it ticked over for 5 minutes by which tiome it was into an uneven tick over
Set off and drove a few miles up and down hills and stuck behind a tractor
Nanaocom print out is here and I have tried to attach the full CSV filebut it says this type of file is not accepted

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YARHOO........
Passed its MOT no advisories

Emmissions :
Test Limit applied 1.98 L/m
Absorbsion Coefficient 1.01 .....l/min Zero Drift 0,01 L/m
Absorbtion Coeffcient after correction 1.00 l/m
Pass
 
Those CSV viewer captures are irrelevant to me, an xlsx "inputs fuelling" log is the proper way to see if something is wrong or not cos there all the readings are on the same line and they can be compared... i know that xlsx is not supported by this forum but it can be loaded to some host
 
Those CSV viewer captures are irrelevant to me, an xlsx "inputs fuelling" log is the proper way to see if something is wrong or not cos there all the readings are on the same line and they can be compared... i know that xlsx is not supported by this forum but it can be loaded to some host
Im struggling now.
I can concert the file to xlx but I cant make a chart because it only allows 250 data lines .
Tried to put the file in dropbox but it needs an e mail address to share it with.
Any suggestions?
 
This is a fascinating post, thanks guys.

I have a 2002 Defender TD5 90, with 96300 km on the clock, which I bought new and
about 8 months ago it was time to do the copper washers and "OOOh" rings on the injectors....
Ever since then it has run rough on idle and the engine revs were all over the place !!
After going on to a few threads on the forum, Kissmyaura mentioned that it could have been a "spike" that corrupted the fuelcard.
Bought a Nanocom, and downloaded several different files with the "map wizard", but although it a 15P block it seems to run best on the standard map STHLE022 - STTLP 009.
(with thanks to Sierrafery !!!;) who posted the EU2 & EU3 files )
Perhaps it was an early NNN000120 ECU fitted to mine with a 15P block ??

Any thoughts and/or comments please ??
 
Then you need a Eu3 fuel map, if it runs better with Eu2 map it means that something is not OK there, if you adjusted the injector clearances as in the book and the codes are saved you should double check the timing or try with a known well working Eu3 fuel map. The problem is that even if it runs better with the Eu2 map it's not running at full capacity cos the EU2 map was not conceived to run with Eu3 injectors which need different management
 
Many thanks for that, I adjusted the clearances as you said & the codes are saved......:confused:
Any suggestion for a known well working Eu3 fuel map perhaps ?
 
Unfortunately i have no personal experience with that cos mine is Eu2 and didnt have the chance to make tests with Eu3 maps
 
Many thanks for that, I adjusted the clearances as you said & the codes are saved......:confused:
Any suggestion for a known well working Eu3 fuel map perhaps ?
Somewhere there is a standard map generator it was on the Black Box (Nanocom) site, you can generate the standard maps.
 
Thanks, I'll have a look in the "map wizard" again :)
I'll keep you posted...... & with all this dreadful stuff going on globally, take care and keep safe !!

Cheers ;)
 
Thanks, I'll have a look in the "map wizard" again :)
I'll keep you posted...... & with all this dreadful stuff going on globally, take care and keep safe !!

Cheers ;)
Thanks, I'll have a look in the "map wizard" again :)
I'll keep you posted...... & with all this dreadful stuff going on globally, take care and keep safe !!

Cheers ;)

I have gone to the Nanocom Map wizard and flashed several different MAP files on to the ECU, bearing in mind the EU3 Map list Sierrafery supplied and chose from that list.

It seems to run "best" on the svloe005-svtnp005 map, which is for a 110 (17-06-2002)
Nevertheless is still runs a bit rough when cold, but after a while it seems to settle down,
but still occasional the erratic tickover and when you put your foot down, there is a lot of black smoke from the exhaust for a few seconds:(

Is it possible the ECU is corrupted perhaps, as it doesn't seem to be any better after flashing the different maps on ?

I have a "friendly" stealer here that has a Landrover T4 diagnostic tool, who is willing to have a look at the ECU, but I'm not sure if they can "repair" the ECU, in case its corrupted.

Read a lot about TD5 Alive, and they seem alright, would it be worth contacting them ?

Opinions and suggestions would be very welcome :D to try and pin point what is going on with this ECU ;)
 
but still occasional the erratic tickover and when you put your foot down, there is a lot of black smoke from the exhaust for a few seconds:(

Is it possible the ECU is corrupted perhaps, as it doesn't seem to be any better after flashing the different maps on ?
Are you sure that all the sensors are in perfect working order and no boost leak or delaminated hoses? Better record on SD card an "inputs fuelling" log from a drive and post it here, blaming the ECU should be the last step.
 

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