bostjanpisler

bostjanpisler

Member
Hi all! My Disco 2 "99 TD5 keeps stalling when driving if I rev it past about 2,5 or 3k+ RPM.
If I try to start it up again afterwards it starts for a second and dies. When I try again after about a day it starts and runs ok.

- Fuel pump was replaced about 8 months ago, but did only about 5k km since then
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced crankshaft position sensor

Could it be that the strainer on the fuel pump is clogged from junk falling off of fuel tank wall? Tank is old.

Help much appreciated!
 
bostjanpisler said:
Hi all! My Disco 2 "99 TD5 keeps stalling when driving if I rev it past about 2,5 or 3k+ RPM.
If I try to start it up again afterwards it starts for a second and dies. When I try again after about a day it starts and runs ok.

- Fuel pump was replaced about 8 months ago, but did only about 5k km since then
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced crankshaft position sensor

Could it be that the strainer on the fuel pump is clogged from junk falling off of fuel tank wall? Tank is old.

Help much appreciated!
Click to expand...
If you have doubts about anything, and you can look at it, then i'd do that.
Have you put a diagnostic on it to rule stuff out?

If it starts and runs OK until you push it, i.e. accelerating quite hard, or up a hill, then it goes into limp mode, this is an indicator of the waste gate actuator or the waste gate having a problem. If the waste gate doesn't open as it should the the ECU picks this up as overfuelling, then cuts the fuelling to compensate, by putting it into limp home mode.
The waste gate could be jammed at the turbo, or the actuator which is there to open it could be not functioning.
If this IS the case, then stopping and turning the ignition off, then restarting the car makes it go away until you push the engine again.

But if you have a starting problem this may be nothing to do with the wastegate.
As always you may have more than one problem.
If you find the pump getting blocked in the tank, you will not be the first.
You could also check the pipes from it are clear.
Best of luck.
 
Thanks for the quick input, I guess it could be multiple problems because the waste gate things sounds about right, not sure why it’s not starting up right away afterwards as mentioned, this could be the other thing.

Can’t connect to diagnostic here, will try to clean the strainer at the pump and slowly drive it home and get it checked there. hope it’ll make it.
 
Update

Took the gas pump out and the bottom seemed completely fine, attached image.
The wastegate lever on the turbo moves fine if I disconnect the actuator and move it by hand.
The actuator I can't test outside of trying to move it with my hand which I could just slightly, but it moves.

Stanleysteamer said:
If this IS the case, then stopping and turning the ignition off, then restarting the car makes it go away until you push the engine again.
Click to expand...
The car started back up in about 40 minutes and worked normally.

Questions :)
- Is there a way to know if the actuator is actually being triggered ie. revving the engine?
- If the actuator is ok, could it be a problem with the modulator not triggering the actuator?
- Is there a way to bypass the car stalling, I can live with less power, just so I can get it home (faster).

Appreciate the help!
 

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bostjanpisler said:
Update

Took the gas pump out and the bottom seemed completely fine, attached image.
The wastegate lever on the turbo moves fine if I disconnect the actuator and move it by hand.
The actuator I can't test outside of trying to move it with my hand which I could just slightly, but it moves.


The car started back up in about 40 minutes and worked normally.

Questions :)
- Is there a way to know if the actuator is actually being triggered ie. revving the engine?
- If the actuator is ok, could it be a problem with the modulator not triggering the actuator?
- Is there a way to bypass the car stalling, I can live with less power, just so I can get it home (faster).

Appreciate the help!
Click to expand...
When it comes to electronics i.e. ECUs etc, I am quickly out of my depth, but don't worry, others like @sierrafery understand them very well.
It intrigues me that the vehicle will not start again straight away, but will minutes or hours later. It's as if there is a dry joint on a circuit board somewhere.
I'm inclined to think this is now more of an electrical fault than a mechanical one, but I may be wrong on this.
And yes you can test the actuator by, as you say, getting someone to rev the engine while you watch it to make sure it moves when the engine revs higher.
As to your last two questions, i cannot answer those. sorry.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
And yes you can test the actuator by, as you say, getting someone to rev the engine while you watch it to make sure it moves when the engine revs higher.
Click to expand...
Ok progress, tried this with a friend and it does not move when we rev it high. Now just have to figure out if it’s the actuator or modulator. Any ideas how to eliminate actuator, probably easier? Don’t have an air compressor at hand.
 
bostjanpisler said:
Ok progress, tried this with a friend and it does not move when we rev it high. Now just have to figure out if it’s the actuator or modulator. Any ideas how to eliminate actuator, probably easier? Don’t have an air compressor at hand.
Click to expand...
Take it off and see if it holds vacuum. Suck on the tube and put your tongue over the end, if it holds vacuum you know the diaphragm is solid.
Basic and old skool, but that is me!:D:D:D
 
Update: changed the actuator and modulator and it still goes into limp mode when under more load.
Looks like the actuator still doesn't move when I rev it in place.

Any other ideas what I could look at?
 
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