Just read these posts and would agree with you on this one
well it justs gets worse!! used the car yesterday afternoon, parked it up, went out this morning and its leaked water out of the expansion tank from the overflow pipe. took the cap off and it was still pressurised. water flowed out the top of the tank. it does use a little water and have to top it up approx once a month with a couple of pints, but I had put this down to a leak in the heater matrix (can be heard gargling for about 1min after starting)
Think i'm going to have to get it over to the local LR garage and let them have a look. wondering if its the head gasket, although no water/oil mix and it doesnt overheat
Think i'm going to have to get it over to the local LR garage and let them have a look. wondering if its the head gasket, although no water/oil mix and it doesnt overheat
Leaking head gasket may NOT cause any signs of oil in the coolant, nor coolant in the oil. You may just have a simple small GAS leak from a cylinder into a water-passage.
Take off the coolant header tank cap, and get someone to start the engine while you keep an eye on the coolant in the header tank.
It should swirl about some, but it really should NOT be bubbling AT ALL.
If it is clearly bubbling away, suspect head gasket leaking gas into the coolant. Full HG failure would probably be sooner rather than later.
If you get it done make sure they fit STEEL head location dowels in place of those ridiculous plastic ones.
CharlesY
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will do that when the wife gets back from the shops!
just had another look in header tank and the coolant is full of bubbles and slightly foamy on the surface. what i have found is tiny specks of what looks like copper on the cap and on my finger when dipped
It does begin to look as if the head gasket is the problem.
If it bubbles away especially when you rev it up a bit ......
Oh Dear ....
CharlesY
I'm taking it that it's going to be expensive?!
.....but if it solves the problem (assuming that a small gas to water leak will reduce the compression on effected cylinders) it will be worth it just to have it driving great again.
Forgot to say that i drove a mates 03 TD5 last weekend and that was a joy to drive. smooth and quiet. his is standard, and the performance was the same as mine with a re-maped ecu.
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Let's all hope that sorts it out.
Would you let me know as I have some similar symptoms and am looking a solution.
Cheers
Dave
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that, I hope yours gets sorted out.
I've just been pricing up the bits in case I need to do mine: head gasket £25, head gasket kit (ie all the other bits) £50.
So, if mine is also a headgasket replacement job, I'll have to do it myself. Life is a learning opportunity, so they say
Cheers
Dave
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
Is it definately rough running or is it holding back?
there is def something not right between 2300-2500rpm. causes a bad vibration through the whole car. when looking at the engine, it shakes from side to side, very quickly, almost like a misfire but clears when more revs are applied. it does seem down on power but that could be down to me now being used to the ecu upgrade.
The only thing left is the fuel pump, but i'd of thought that it would have got worse as more revs were allpied
The only thing left is the fuel pump, but i'd of thought that it would have got worse as more revs were allpied
noticed on the drive into work this morning, the vibration gets worse once the t/c has locked in (once locked, the car is very sensitive to throttle inputs and when using cruise control and can kangeroo badly). is it worth checking the box fluid and is there an inspection plate for having a look at the TC?
Think i might have found the problem!
On the drive home tonight, reached the point where the TC locks up (in D), put my foot down and there was about 300-400rpm of slip. Pulled the stick back to 3rd while going through a village, got out the other side and increased speed untill the TC locked up. Noticed that the vibration through 2300-2500rpm was reduced. Then i put my foot down....and the thing took off like a rocket (no TC slip, apeared to be a 1:1 drive through the gearbox). Had to back off as the sudden gain in speed frightened me!! Back into D, vibration is worse and performace had gone (even with TC locked).
Now the question is
1) is the gearbox buggered or
2) is just the TC buggered
3) would it be sorted by changing the box fluid? (fingers crossed!!)
On the drive home tonight, reached the point where the TC locks up (in D), put my foot down and there was about 300-400rpm of slip. Pulled the stick back to 3rd while going through a village, got out the other side and increased speed untill the TC locked up. Noticed that the vibration through 2300-2500rpm was reduced. Then i put my foot down....and the thing took off like a rocket (no TC slip, apeared to be a 1:1 drive through the gearbox). Had to back off as the sudden gain in speed frightened me!! Back into D, vibration is worse and performace had gone (even with TC locked).
Now the question is
1) is the gearbox buggered or
2) is just the TC buggered
3) would it be sorted by changing the box fluid? (fingers crossed!!)
Given up with the gear box issue as it's not done it since.
Have been looking at nanocom outputs and have noticed that i'm getting readings for a 3 track throttle. I thought all pre 2002 TD5's had a 2 track throttle? Also, it thinks it's in low range when it's high. How can this be sorted?
Have been looking at nanocom outputs and have noticed that i'm getting readings for a 3 track throttle. I thought all pre 2002 TD5's had a 2 track throttle? Also, it thinks it's in low range when it's high. How can this be sorted?
OK Im no expert but I had similar problems on my TD5.
My story in short was,
Car overheated and went into limp home mode
head gasket gone, this was replaced
then no power at all many weeks at Inde garage on and off
Took it somewhere else another inde, and in about an hour he was on the phone saying the injectors were fooooked.
Apparantly (as i say im no expert) the plastic/rubber end distorts at high heat and restricts flow.
These were replaced luckily with second hand recon ones.
Boy oh boy was it different, I reckon I had never had full power since getting it two years ealier.
All the symptoms you have described are so close to my troubles, I didn't read the full post but have you replaced Injectors?
My story in short was,
Car overheated and went into limp home mode
head gasket gone, this was replaced
then no power at all many weeks at Inde garage on and off
Took it somewhere else another inde, and in about an hour he was on the phone saying the injectors were fooooked.
Apparantly (as i say im no expert) the plastic/rubber end distorts at high heat and restricts flow.
These were replaced luckily with second hand recon ones.
Boy oh boy was it different, I reckon I had never had full power since getting it two years ealier.
All the symptoms you have described are so close to my troubles, I didn't read the full post but have you replaced Injectors?
Hi Charles,
In relation to your comment highlighted in red above. The tv damper broke clean off my crankshaft pulley (rubbery bit with metal disc) at the three lugs. Can I still drive the car like this as mentioned above?
Regards
Yes, as long as no damage has taken place when the thing came off and there are no loose bits hanging on that might let go. I assume the three lugs you mention are the lugs of the damper ring, and that the main part of the pulley itself is undamaged.
Make sure the three bolts are fitted and tight, or take them out and store them somewhere safe. The torque is about 80Nm or 60 lbf.ft.
You should consider replacing the ring sometime. It is there to fulfil a purpose, but that may be as much in theory as in practical effect. In the short to medium term it won't be a problem to leave it off.
Keep in mind the crankshaft pulley centre bolt is VERY tight, 455Nm / 340lbf.ft.
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