andyfox2005

andyfox2005

Active Member
So ive searched and cant see much with the same symtoms as mine so here goes. Got a td5 that had a new water pump fitted ( un confirmed by me) since fitting the water pump the old owner says it will not blow hot air so i took it out and it blew warm air but not hot. Had a go at bleeding it and got hot air at 2,000rpm heaters where red hot as soon as i start driving at higher rpm it goes cold again and back to hot when i slow down unless i stop and its ideling at which point its cold too. Done 60 miles temp guage hasnt moved untill it started over heating i stopped to a boiling cooling system let it cool down done another 60 miles no problems top hose is pressureized and when i release the bleed screw everytime i get hissing or air escapint before coolant comes through bottom hose is cooler than top hose and hoses going into bulk head heater matrix are warm for a bit then cold radiator is cool doesnt really amke any sence to me coolant is also very clean no contamination i. Oil either
 
Are you un clipping the header bottle and raising it up above the height of bled screw when bleeding the air out ?
 
Last edited:
Just an update took stat out today but thermostat housing was solid so I had to chizle it apart dropped stat into 60° water and brought it to the boil nothing happened which I think is good news my question is could I have actually broken the thermostat brakibg it out of its housing
 
Not unless you have damaged it so that it is jammed shut, but i doubt you have. Replace it with a new one and see if it solves your problems is the easiest way to know
 
andyfox2005 said:
Just an update took stat out today but thermostat housing was solid so I had to chizle it apart dropped stat into 60° water and brought it to the boil nothing happened which I think is good news my question is could I have actually broken the thermostat brakibg it out of its housing
Click to expand...

This is a TD5 isn't it? In that case you don't take the thermostat out of it's plastic assembly, you just buy a complete new one. It's not like the older style TDi 300 ones where you just buy a new 'stat.


Dave
 
thebiglad said:
This is a TD5 isn't it? In that case you don't take the thermostat out of it's plastic assembly, you just buy a complete new one. It's not like the older style TDi 300 ones where you just buy a new 'stat.


Dave
Click to expand...

Yea its a td5 but i wanted to get stat out to test it so i knew for sure
 
andyfox2005 said:
Yea its a td5 but i wanted to get stat out to test it so i knew for sure
Click to expand...

you won't find anything out that way! get new stat, not a cheap one, flush all the system backwards, refit, check all air is out and make sure rad gets hot all over, do this all without refitting the fan, then drop the coolant again, refill and check again, then see!
 
discodrivercumbria said:
you won't find anything out that way! get new stat, not a cheap one, flush all the system backwards, refit, check all air is out and make sure rad gets hot all over, do this all without refitting the fan, then drop the coolant again, refill and check again, then see!
Click to expand...

But i did find something out that way i now know my old stat was buggered
 
What happened to people having thick skin on here all I was saying was that I tested the stat and it was faulty that was all I set out to achieve sorry if my previous post offended you. But you know how it is working on landrovers normally results in lots of shouting and swearing and I was a little annoyed. I hope this wont affect our romance in the future xx
 
I hope this wont affect our romance in the future xx[/QUOTE]

From Rave:
"Thermostat - Main valve

The thermostat is closed at temperatures below approximately 82C (179F). When the coolant temperature reaches approximately 82C the thermostat starts to open and is fully open at approximately 96C (204F)."
However there is also the By-pass flow valve:
"The by-pass flow valve is held closed by a light spring. It operates to further aid heater warm-up. When the main valve is closed and the engine speed is below 1500 rev/min, the coolant pump does not produce sufficient flow and pressure to open the valve. In this condition the valve prevents coolant circulating through the by-pass circuit and forces the coolant through the heater matrix only. This provides a higher flow of warm coolant through the heater matrix to improve passenger comfort in cold conditions.
When the engine speed increases above 1500 rev/min the coolant pump produces a greater flow and pressure than the heater circuit can take. The pressure acts on the flow valve and overcomes the valve spring pressure, opening the valve and limiting the pressure in the heater circuit. The valve modulates to provide maximum coolant flow through the heater matrix and yet allowing excess coolant to flow into the by-pass circuit to provide the engines cooling needs at higher engine rev/min."

:hysterically_laughi:lvkiss-106:
 
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