The breather on top of rocker cover was chuffing like a train air filter side of turbo doing the same and when throttle pressed sent a fountain of water up inside of bonnet wouldn't mind seeing if I can get a solution to engine not ecu can deal with that in time oil cooler had a crack in it grill end where what looks like someone over tightened the bolt got the biggest inter cooler I've ever seen looks same size as radiator could water mix with oil behind oil cooler if head was gone how long would it run for and what would be the Simptoms how would water end up in Intercooler any help appreciated
 
Td5 ben said:
Ye silver box with four cables in 2 black 2 white and was attached In between one white and yellow cable coming out the ecu it was removed on way home and white cable put back into ecu is metal with black rubbers either end cheap crap that's why it was removed
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Yes as Sierra said, bloody liability!
Have you started the stripdown yet?
Try the simple stuff first, drain oil/water, replace oil cooler cover, lots to remove before you can get to it though! I have loads of new O rings and Dowty seals for the oil cooler if you want some just PM me your address.
re-install oil cooler and new fluids
Test the engine
Id do the above before starting to remove the head, the head kit from Turners is £150 + vat
Mark

PS Yes the bolts on the oil cooler are big, BUT they seal on O rings so they should never need tightening up too much, sounds like previous owner though, "big bolt....big spanner"!
 
that was a "boost box" cos WY is input from MAP...as long as you dont get overboost symptoms with it removed IMO it didnt affect too much
 
I'm hoping to get started Tomoz don't have indoor space to take apart so got to be done outside and not touching it in the rain mark those I rings would be brill can you send me a message as still getting to grips with the site
 
Yep recd PM ok, ill get them in the post Thursday.
PS. Keep a good record of all the bits you take off, there are lots of different bolt sizes, bag up the bits and label the bags "oil cooler" "turbo drain" etc , freezer bags are good.
Try to get a decent low range torque wrench, Halfords do a good selection.
Have you down loaded RAVE?
Also look at some of the online parts stores, the online diagrams are good for checking which bolts go where. If you look at the oil cooler parts list you will see that the O Rings and Dowty seals (the external ones on the big bolts) are not even listed, thanks LR!
Keep posting questions and pics if you have any.
Mark
 
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Update today started taking a few bits apart and found this upon taking rocker cover of so far found some of the water it's in the rocker cover Intercooler sump oil filters there's more inside than out so gonna be a long overhaul
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My goodness me, it's awash with water. I'd carry on dismantling if I were you, because it'll have water in all the bearings too. There are a few people on here who've done a complete overhaul of the TD5 engine and have posted up pictures. Markomate2 and Bennehboy, for example. So it's well within the scope of the keen amateur, if you like working with your hands.
 
Brown said:
...There are a few people on here who've done a complete overhaul of the TD5. So it's well within the scope of the keen amateur, if you like working with your hands.
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Ill add, and if you have a credit card with at least £1.5K spare on it!
Not seen the inside of a top end going rusty before, so it must have stripped all the oil off, which as Brown says has most likely taken out the bearings as well, and probably the bores/pistons/camshaft etc etc as well.
Sorry to repeat it, but I would seriously consider 1) Selling it for spares, 2) Sourcing a complete engine from a breaker, someone else on the forum has just done that.
Mark
 
Yes, it all adds up! Especially if you're doing all the bearing shells, seals, piston rings, gaskets etc.

There's as much water in there as you'd have if you'd drowned it. Droplets, rust and emulsion.

What I'm intending to do is once my engine has gone very far past the 100,000 mile mark is get a second hand 15p and replace all the bearings,rings, seals etc at my leisure so that when the engine I'm currently running conks out I have a fresh one to swap in. A complete replacement unit from Turners or similar looks very nice but it's a bit dear.

So if it was mine I'd try and find a secondhand one as a temporary measure and rebuild the existing one over a period of time.
 
Well upon stripping it further a new engine is needed piston 1 is washed head gaskets gone and valves have been Hitting Pistons timing chain guide is snapped and top bolt meant to be Allen key is not even attached turbo's gone a big pile of scrap at moment had anyone got an engine for sale cheapish but a good engine no more scrap
 

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Looking at a couple but there 300 miles awayish was hoping there might be a couple closish and cheap as only really need the block and head
 
Td5 ben said:
Looking at a couple but there 300 miles awayish was hoping there might be a couple closish and cheap as only really need the block and head
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I bought a second hand head from jon daunter salvage £225 delivered with a warranty, also there was a post on here a couple of months from someone giving a td5 block away,
 
That's my kind of money I've asked most people breaking there td5 if engine for sale and theve all been bought johnlad if you could find the post I'd be grateful will ask whoever needs asking as long as it's right sort of price
 
Hi Ben
For the sake of £50 to £70 in fuel you should go where ever you need to go to pick up a decent engine that, ideally, you can hear running.
Saving £100 to £200 on a cheaper engine could easily bite you later.
Mark
PS Why only head and block? You do mean block with crank/pistons etc dont you?
Its very likely the crank/oil pump/timing chain/crank seals etc will be toast.
No engine likes having water for lubricant!
 
Yes will need Pistons crank and head assembled just no ancillaries as have them all got new timing chain kit new head kit all service items need to get a new turbo but everything else is working
 
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