Thank you very much for the picture, of course its possible both are faulty, if it was the case of when I fitted the replacement and it started it right away again I would have accepted it a bit easier :D.
 
lynall said:
Just looked , 2007 I took that pic, so car was only 6 bloody years old!
Click to expand...

Was it easy to take apart? What issues did you have, mine is that when accelerating from 2nd gear up it hits a wall and cut then only by dropping a gear and letting the revs slowly build to about 2500 is when boost seems to kick in again and fire it forward.
 
Something I could do without hurting my back ....this is my old pedal sensor
20210106_211226.jpg
20210106_211300.jpg
 
Landrover6176 said:
Was it easy to take apart? What issues did you have, mine is that when accelerating from 2nd gear up it hits a wall and cut then only by dropping a gear and letting the revs slowly build to about 2500 is when boost seems to kick in again and fire it forward.
Click to expand...


Sorry cannot remember, as it was 13 yrs and many land rovers ago!
 
lynall said:
Pic as promised, 2001 model was losing power and causing driving issues, new pedal fixed it, so Iirc I measured the volts/ohms? and one track was dodgy so opened it up to find the worn bit in the top track.
I believe some pedals have two tracks and later ones have three tracks? they work by comparing readings and should always add up to say 100, 1 track reads 78 so ther other needs to read 22 ie total of 100, and so on, not sure if fgiures are read/measured that way, just my way of explaining it.

View attachment 227046
Click to expand...
Like this!
The 2 track - 3 track thing was mentioned in the thing I put the link up to. But this is why we are both saying to compare the two. Still doesn't explain the intermittent thing.
But if you take them apart, as above, you may be lucky and find you can mix and match the resistors, although sods law, the same ones will be worn. But it's a starting point:):):):):)
 
lynall said:
Tracks look good, but you will need to put it back together and using a multimeter take readings and see how smooth the readings change.
Click to expand...
Agree, on the surface the tracks look fine, but the meter should prove it as you say. Maybe the contacts that rub along them have a problem, need to see pics of them too.
 
Appreciate your time guys thank you.

Apologise for the questions all I can mostly do is lay down and sit up untill I'm fully operational so I'm spending my time reading about the electrics etc.

I did see a thread on someone having similar problems and someone mentioned the hi/lo switch on the transfer box which tells the ECU about fueling etc.
 
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