Feathers McGraw
Well-Known Member
Never assume anything. For the price of a gasket and a replacement bolt it's worth doing at the oil change and you'll know for certain it's done.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I can't say about the oil pump bolt at that mileage but if you'll decide to remove the sump better remove the front cover too cos a quite common problem at high mileage is the wear of the chain guides which are plastic, only one example what can happen(this piece falled apart when it was touched):
neilly
Well-Known Member
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
Are all models of the TD5 engine likely to have this issue with the oil pump bolt, or it is only the early years of the engine production? i.e. Was it fixed towards the end of it's production run?
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
Sorry, I forgot I'd already asked.
Dipsterson
Member
Just on reading this write up was enough for me to get it replaced, was having issues with the sump plug thread anyway so just got hold of a second hand sump - Peace of Mind 
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html
Thanks - I'm under her today doing some welding on the rear chassis (first time arc welding for 36 years gulp!) so I'll see if I can soak and crack the bolts - if I can then I guess I'll drop the sump - if not then I'll go for the crossed fingers instead
Not sure about the chain guides - can they be easily replaced in situ or is it a bigger strip down job?
The cross-member bolts are not your standard parts, they are thread-cutting bolts that make their own thread, so best to get into the side of the cross-member and soak the ends of the bolts well, then let them sit for a while.
I've ended up with a few stripped out and have taken the weld-nut bodies out and put conventional nuts and bolts in, but there isn't much room and you can't fit a threaded insert as there isn't the depth for it.
Peter
I've ended up with a few stripped out and have taken the weld-nut bodies out and put conventional nuts and bolts in, but there isn't much room and you can't fit a threaded insert as there isn't the depth for it.
Peter
neilly
Well-Known Member
From the Rave files...............This shows the head off, reading about it, others have managed without removing the head.
Cheers
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Once you are watching them it's a 5 minute job in situ, no need to "disturb" the head for them
neilly
Well-Known Member
Appears that the engine has no oil going around and the engine gets fubarred , unless you are really lucky and manage to stop it as soon as the red light comes on.
Cheers
Bobdog
Well-Known Member
I would have thought the oil pressure light would come on immediately if the sprocket falls off?? Also, that little chain bouncing around loose on the crankshaft sprocket looks like it could cause terminal damage if it got caught in the timing chain!
neilly
Well-Known Member
@Bobdog , Yes the light should come on immediately, as there would be no pressure, not sure why you have it as a question.
All the results of this failure mode I have read about appear to be lackof oil causing engine failure. not damage due to the chain rattling around. At the edn of the day a fubarred engine is just that. If it is a concern then remove the sump and check it.
Cheers
All the results of this failure mode I have read about appear to be lackof oil causing engine failure. not damage due to the chain rattling around. At the edn of the day a fubarred engine is just that. If it is a concern then remove the sump and check it.
Cheers
ROY SIMPSON
Active Member
What mileage does this become a problem
16 P Engine 78,000 miles
16 P Engine 78,000 miles
neilly
Well-Known Member
@ROY SIMPSON From what i can gather it is not mileage specific.
It was a concern on the older 10P engines, the story is that LR fitted bolts that had no threadlock on them, However some later engines have also had the same failure mode.
It is not what you would consider a common problem, but as it is a simple thing to check and the result of failure is potentially catastrophic to my mind it was worth the little effort it took to check it.
Cheers
It was a concern on the older 10P engines, the story is that LR fitted bolts that had no threadlock on them, However some later engines have also had the same failure mode.
It is not what you would consider a common problem, but as it is a simple thing to check and the result of failure is potentially catastrophic to my mind it was worth the little effort it took to check it.
Cheers
