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tomstubbings

Member
hi i hope someone on here can help

i have a 999 td5, it sat around a lot but has always started with a booster pack,

i disconnected the battery some time ago after boosting and starting to preserve it.

i reconnected the battery it turned over fine but just didnt have quite enough juice to start. I disconnected the battery and charged it, charger says its accepted charge fine
it then would still not start. not turning over.

I tried the eka sequence to no avail, tired tow starting to ensure wasnt stuck starter,

the immobiliser light was flashing constantly.

i have had the immobiliser removed from the ecu and plugged it back in but still have the same problem. (the guy who done it plugged my ecu in his own landrover to test so im certain it was removed fully) i have checked obvious things like the fuses etc.

has anyone came accross a similar issue??

any help gratefully received thankyou
 
The original problem could be as simple as a defective battery. A TD5 needs a very solid battery for the ECU to operate the injectors. Before you do anything else I would connect a battery checker and see what Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) it can still generate and what the battery's State of Health is, you will likely find it needs replacing. At the very least check what voltage are you getting at the battery; ideally you should be seeing more than 12.5v, though it may start at slightly less than 12v.

It now sounds as though the immobiliser has kicked in as it will not even turn over. Not sure what you mean by removed the immobiliser from the ECU. Are you just saying that you have pulled the ECU and plugged it in to another LR? If so that will not tell you much. The immobiliser is deactivated when a coil receiver integral to the ignition key barrel interacts with the key itself. Have you tried the other key?
 
Am tempted to say, connect a spare battery with jump leads to your existing but charged-as-far-as-possible batt.
But also DO make sure the connections to the batt are good, they are the invention of the devil and frankly when I reconnect mine, I unbolt the bolt on the top, use a socket and hammer to belt it down the terminal post then do up the bolt.
Once you are absolutely sure you have good power to the vehicle then you can start looking for other problems.
Good luck.:):):)
 
Si Click said:
The original problem could be as simple as a defective battery. A TD5 needs a very solid battery for the ECU to operate the injectors. Before you do anything else I would connect a battery checker and see what Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) it can still generate and what the battery's State of Health is, you will likely find it needs replacing. At the very least check what voltage are you getting at the battery; ideally you should be seeing more than 12.5v, though it may start at slightly less than 12v.

It now sounds as though the immobiliser has kicked in as it will not even turn over. Not sure what you mean by removed the immobiliser from the ECU. Are you just saying that you have pulled the ECU and plugged it in to another LR? If so that will not tell you much. The immobiliser is deactivated when a coil receiver integral to the ignition key barrel interacts with the key itself. Have you tried the other key?
Click to expand...
 
Thankyou for taking the time to reply.
I will try a different battery tomorrow And make sure terminals are all nice and clean and tight.

the immobilizer can be deleted/removed via the ECU, this has been done so there is technically no immobilizer at all, eliminating the possibility of that being an issue.


I only have 1 key again this is one of the reasons I went down the immobilizer remov route to completely rule it out.

Appreciate the help
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Am tempted to say, connect a spare battery with jump leads to your existing but charged-as-far-as-possible batt.
But also DO make sure the connections to the batt are good, they are the invention of the devil and frankly when I reconnect mine, I unbolt the bolt on the top, use a socket and hammer to belt it down the terminal post then do up the bolt.
Once you are absolutely sure you have good power to the vehicle then you can start looking for other problems.
Good luck.:):):)
Click to expand...



I wi try this tomorrow and see how I get on.


Thankyou
 
tomstubbings said:
...the immobilizer can be deleted/removed via the ECU, this has been done so there is technically no immobilizer at all, eliminating the possibility of that being an issue.
Click to expand...
Who told you that ? The immobiliser is not in the ECU in the first place. Did the fob work to unlock the vehicle ? If not and the EKA code is not accepted(provided you proceed correcctly with it) the problem is with the BCU
 
sierrafery said:
Who told you that ? The immobiliser is not in the ECU in the first place. Did the fob work to unlock the vehicle ? If not and the EKA code is not accepted(provided you proceed correcctly with it) the problem is with the BCU
Click to expand...



whether it’s in ecu or controlled by it I’m
Not sure. There’s several threads about it in various places

no the fob didn’t work but never has...... tried new battery etc
 
tomstubbings said:
whether it’s in ecu or controlled by it I’m
Not sure. There’s several threads about it in various places
Click to expand...
I am sure and i'm telling you that the ECU has nothing to do with the "main" immobiliser which triggers the red LED, for that if you dont have a working fob the only way to remobilise it is with the EKA code cos the BCU is immobilised hence the starting circuit disabled. The central locking is reacting to the key when you lock/unlock the door ?
 
Last edited:
Central locking works on the key but not the fob! Never has as long as I’ve owned it. (one of the rear doors however gets stuck but think that’s more from not much use)

I tried entering the eka code but could only get a single beep on the horn (it has a 0 at the end which makes it even more awkward)
 
It sounds to me as if the vehicle is immobilised due to a faulty fob.
If you can connect a diagnostic tool like Nanocom or Hawkeye you should be able to make passive immobilisation inactive which should allow you to start it.
Sierrafery is an absolute guru on this stuff, I strongly recommend that you listen to what he has to say.
 
Si Click said:
It sounds to me as if the vehicle is immobilised due to a faulty fob.
If you can connect a diagnostic tool like Nanocom or Hawkeye you should be able to make passive immobilisation inactive which should allow you to start it.
Sierrafery is an absolute guru on this stuff, I strongly recommend that you listen to what he has to say.
Click to expand...


Absolutely, very grateful of any help. I only know what I’m told, re the key etc it has never worked......
 
Thinking about it, if you can get hold of a Nanocom or Hawkeye you could try re-programming the fob.......an get another one asap.
 
If the vehicle is immobilised then a diagnostic unit will not communicate with it.

You will need to get the EKA working first. Once you get that working then it will allow the nanocom to turn off the immobiliser settings in the system.

Cheers
 
That's why i asked about central locking to make sure that the driver's door lock switch is working which is compulsory for the EKA code but if you dont get the initial beep to start the procedure you are in trouble, are the horns working? also it's impossible to have 0 in the code, it can be there only as part of 10. As the BCU is immobilised it will not communicate with diagnostics so at this point the only way i see is to send the BCU to be unlocked https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Discover...ld-or-supply-Dealer-recommended-/133115857675 or buy known working one but for that you'll need complex programming with dedicated tool

there is a small chance that the IDM(interior fusebox) was ruined by water ingress ... did you ever hear the alarm sound before that ?
 
Si Click said:
It sounds to me as if the vehicle is immobilised due to a faulty fob.
If you can connect a diagnostic tool like Nanocom or Hawkeye you should be able to make passive immobilisation inactive which should allow you to start it.
Sierrafery is an absolute guru on this stuff, I strongly recommend that you listen to what he has to say.
Click to expand...
+1^
 
The pic of the original card is below


Eka looks like 08 05 05 00 unless I’m reading something wrong


When entering the eka I could only get the initial single beep, follow instructions and enter 8,5,5 then return to center...... no beep.......
 

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sierrafery said:
Somebody messed up with that cos it's impossible to be 00 and the sequence is not completed if you didnt enter 4 numbers... a main dealer should give you the correct code FOC based on ownership evidence
Click to expand...



so do you think this could be the issue or just part of it???
I read there is a kind of override/dealer code 1 5 1 5

I did try this too but same........

when entering the code I held on the last 5 to the right. That’s the way I understood, just got single beep....
 
tomstubbings said:
I read there is a kind of override/dealer code 1 5 1 5...
when entering the code I held on the last 5 to the right. That’s the way I understood, just got single beep....
Click to expand...
IMO that 1515 thing is boll0x when it comes to a D2, that's why you get the single beep cos the code is not accepted ... also you dont have to hold the key after the last entry, after the last digit it must go to center, unlock then back to center but it's useless to try with 1515
 

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