02Disco2 · Mar 23, 2021

Had this “issue” for a while but as I don’t really do many miles in it on the road it’s not been bugging me too much but as I was test driving after fitting new UJ’s to the props it annoyed me again!

So under acceleration it pulls fine to 3k rpm but won’t pull past that, it seems to stick, unless I really boot it and it kicks down. Is that normal??!

It’s a 2002 TD5, auto. MAP, MAF & the other sensor (into the air box!) are working according to nanocom and readings appear ok. Turbo boost seems within range as well.
Everything else (that I can think of) seems to be working ok so not sure if this is just the way it is or if I should be looking for something else?

Any suggestions or similar experiences?

cheers

Rnicholson90 · Mar 23, 2021

02Disco2 said:
Had this “issue” for a while but as I don’t really do many miles in it on the road it’s not been bugging me too much but as I was test driving after fitting new UJ’s to the props it annoyed me again!

So under acceleration it pulls fine to 3k rpm but won’t pull past that, it seems to stick, unless I really boot it and it kicks down. Is that normal??!

It’s a 2002 TD5, auto. MAP, MAF & the other sensor (into the air box!) are working according to nanocom and readings appear ok. Turbo boost seems within range as well.
Everything else (that I can think of) seems to be working ok so not sure if this is just the way it is or if I should be looking for something else?

Any suggestions or similar experiences?

cheers

I'm having a very similar issue!! But my manifold pressure is reading very low!! Cleaned the map sensor, the truck has egr delete and I have a new maf sensor so I'm leaning towards map sensor for mine!! But I'll be watching this thread as I'm interested to see what you come up with!

Mexican · Mar 23, 2021

Had the same problem but mine was putting out black smoke it turns out it was my rubber pipe to the turbo was collapsing so got a metal pipe now. Get somebody to rev the disco and check mite help ??

sierrafery · Mar 23, 2021

02Disco2 said:
Everything else (that I can think of) seems to be working ok so not sure if this is just the way it is or if I should be looking for something else?

Any suggestions or similar experiences?

CAT and EGR still in place ? if yes get rid of them then we'll speak

02Disco2 said:
MAP, MAF & the other sensor (into the air box!) are working according to nanocom and readings appear ok

.. "appear OK" for an Eu3 engine is not enough, they should be perfect...,untill then do this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/

02Disco2 · Mar 24, 2021

sierrafery said:
CAT and EGR still in place ? if yes get rid of them then we'll speak

thanks SF. EGR has been removed but cat is still in place at the moment - with the new uk mot rules I’m not sure on removing that bit, unless someone can tell me I’m wrong and it won’t throw up mot issues?

02Disco2 · Mar 24, 2021

Mexican said:
Had the same problem but mine was putting out black smoke it turns out it was my rubber pipe to the turbo was collapsing so got a metal pipe now. Get somebody to rev the disco and check mite help ??

No smoke on revving engine thankfully and hoses all appear ok - worth checking though, thanks

02Disco2 · Mar 24, 2021

sierrafery said:
appear OK" for an Eu3 engine is not enough, they should be perfect...,untill then do this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/

@sierrafery have checked this as suggested and reading from F10 is 23.2

02Disco2 · Mar 24, 2021

also, have just recorded from Nanocom (inputs-Fueling) and air flow is between 62-68 on idle and 250-287 on around 2500rpm
(attached if it helps anyone!)

02Disco2 · Mar 25, 2021

02Disco2 said:
also, have just recorded from Nanocom (inputs-Fueling) and air flow is between 62-68 on idle and 250-287 on around 2500rpm
(attached if it helps anyone!)

Just noticed when looking again at these readings that the column for “wastegate modulator %” is zero throughout, surely that’s not right?
I replaced the wastegate modulator about 2 years ago with an oem version but based on those readings (or lack of) I think another one may be needed?

sierrafery · Mar 25, 2021

You need a record from a drive under load not stationary, it's normal for the WGM to not kick in without serious boost

02Disco2 · Mar 25, 2021

sierrafery said:
You need a record from a drive under load not stationary, it's normal for the WGM to not kick in without serious boost

A very good point! should have thought of that! I did just that and the WGM does appear to be kicking in so no further forward!

The readings on the MAF seem "high" based on what I've read from various sources - I've got a genuine one coming in the next few days (along with a WGM that I'll keep as a spare now!) so will see if that makes any difference

sierrafery · Mar 25, 2021

The readings are looking ok except the boost which could be higher, tighten 2 threads on the wastegate rod

02Disco2 · Mar 25, 2021

sierrafery said:
The readings are looking ok except the boost which could be higher, tighten 2 threads on the wastegate rod

Ok, thank you will try that in the morning and go for another run

02Disco2 · Mar 25, 2021

I bit the bullet @sierrafery and bought a forge wastegate actuator (along with a genuine LR MAF) following a recommendation you made a couple of years ago so I’ll fit and make the adjustment to that once it arrives.
Thanks again

Bobdog · Mar 25, 2021

@02Disco2 - Just read this thread, mine did exactly what you say in your first post, just before my in-tank pump died. 3000rpm and no more. Check the obvious first - listen for the pump priming at ignition II position. No noise, dead pump...

02Disco2 · Mar 26, 2021

Bobdog said:
@02Disco2 - Just read this thread, mine did exactly what you say in your first post, just before my in-tank pump died. 3000rpm and no more. Check the obvious first - listen for the pump priming at ignition II position. No noise, dead pump...

Hi there. Yep checked the pump, def working (at the moment anyway!) and measured voltage across the fuse which shows “HP” reading so hopefully it’s not that

02Disco2 · Mar 27, 2021

Thought I’d try adjusting the existing wastgate before fitting the forge unit (quite possibly the shiniest thing on the car!) - the nut and adjuster seems to be stuck/locked up so can’t move that and the sodding rear bolt for the heat shield is also stuck!! Managed to get it about half way out but no further.
think I’m going down the “drill out the rivets” route when I find the right sized hss bit

Rnicholson90 · Mar 27, 2021

02Disco2 said:
Thought I’d try adjusting the existing wastgate before fitting the forge unit (quite possibly the shiniest thing on the car!) - the nut and adjuster seems to be stuck/locked up so can’t move that and the sodding rear bolt for the heat shield is also stuck!! Managed to get it about half way out but no further.
think I’m going down the “drill out the rivets” route when I find the right sized hss bit

I've just been having a play with mine and adjusted it up a bit! All my readings seem
Fine and it does pull better now but still having flat spots/misfire at 3000 to 3500 rpm going to get a fuel pump as my sender isn't reading correctly anyway!! Hopefully it will cure it

Andy Warren · Mar 27, 2021

Rnicholson90 said:
I've just been having a play with mine and adjusted it up a bit! All my readings seem
Fine and it does pull better now but still having flat spots/misfire at 3000 to 3500 rpm going to get a fuel pump as my sender isn't reading correctly anyway!! Hopefully it will cure it

Hi, you can get the sender as a separate part (should you find you don't need a pump) p/no. is YAD500040 £68.87 inc. vat & easy to change once you get the pump out. I did mine a couple of months back as it didn't read at all, fuel light stuck on. It might be worth getting a new pump to tank seal as mine had gone a bit plasticy & & I didn't want to chance having to take it apart twice.

p/no WGQ500020 £16.32 inc.

Rnicholson90 · Mar 28, 2021

Andy Warren said:
Hi, you can get the sender as a separate part (should you find you don't need a pump) p/no. is YAD500040 £68.87 inc. vat & easy to change once you get the pump out. I did mine a couple of months back as it didn't read at all, fuel light stuck on. It might be worth getting a new pump to tank seal as mine had gone a bit plasticy & & I didn't want to chance having to take it apart twice. p/no WGQ500020 £16.32 inc.

That's good to know!! I didn't realise you could get them separately! Thank you so much!!

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