Stanleysteamer said:
As this is what I meant, and @sierrafery told me there isn't one for manuals, I now don't know what to think!
Click to expand...
You can think what you consider it's correct while i know that "limp mode" is a specific autobox thing as described in the default list of autobox failures... for me the fact that a manual vehicle starts "limping" due to overboost or other fault doesnt mean it's a "mode". Overboost is a fault which can occur for both manual or auto and it's not described as limp mode for any of them because in reality it's "overboost default mode"... when somebody will show me any official doc which shows "limp mode"(which means a default mode) for manuals like in the example below i'll stand corrected(though this thread is not the right place to debate that IMO)
1704985383348.png
 
sierrafery said:
You can think what you consider it's correct while i know that "limp mode" is a specific autobox thing as described in the default list of autobox failures... for me the fact that a manual vehicle starts "limping" due to overboost or other fault doesnt mean it's a "mode". Overboost is a fault which can occur for both manual or auto and it's not described as limp mode for any of them because in reality it's "overboost default mode"... when somebody will show me any official doc which shows "limp mode"(which means a default mode) for manuals like in the example below i'll stand corrected(though this thread is not the right place to debate that IMO)
View attachment 307388
Click to expand...
Mate, please don't have a go at me. I was simply saying that two people seemed to have different ideas and I have no idea which is correct, although as you know, I consider you to be the total guru on all things electronic.
So thanks for the explanation and PLEASE don't be offended, none was intended.

I have just reread all the posts on this and at no time did I say that there was a limp mode for manuals. It was @Dervishi who mentioned it. I just expressed wonderment and puzzlement about it.
So I don't have to "think what I consider is correct" I know you are right, you always are! I just had no idea, now I do!
 
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Stanleysteamer said:
Mate, please don't have a go at me. I was simply saying that two people seemed to have different ideas and I have no idea which is correct, although as you know, I consider you to be the total guru on all things electronic.
So thanks for the explanation and PLEASE don't be offended, none was intended.

I have just reread all the posts on this and at no time did I say that there was a limp mode for manuals. It was @Dervishi who mentioned it. I just expressed wonderment and puzzlement about it.
So I don't have to "think what I consider is correct" I know you are right, you always are! I just had no idea, now I do!
Click to expand...
And this is why I wrote it with quotes...
It cuts power and so on, so makes it "limp" so I wrote "limp mode" not limp mode.
 
OK, so CBA to back through the whole thread as this is a very easy thing to check, but could it be the wastegate modulator?
Easy enough to check, just disconnect the hose from the intercooler pipe at the modulator and connect it to the wastegate can. Thus cutting out the modulator.
Dunno if the pipe is long enough, if not you might have to fit a longer hose or connect the two to and from the modulator.

Just a kind of off-the-wall thought. Happened to be watching a Youtube where the blokey had similar problems.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
OK, so CBA to back through the whole thread as this is a very easy thing to check, but could it be the wastegate modulator?
Easy enough to check, just disconnect the hose from the intercooler pipe at the modulator and connect it to the wastegate can. Thus cutting out the modulator.
Dunno if the pipe is long enough, if not you might have to fit a longer hose or connect the two to and from the modulator.

Just a kind of off-the-wall thought. Happened to be watching a Youtube where the blokey had similar problems.
Click to expand...
Already done that, I shall however double check the brake switch configuration today.
 
sierrafery said:
I just remembered something which would be good to rule out: go with nanocom in "inputs switch" and see what happens with the brake switch and clutch switch inputs when you push the pedals and report cos if the brake switch's N/C contact is not closed or the clutch switch is closed with pedal released the fuelling is reduced and it's noticeable only under load
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Just checked and bother brake switch 1 & 2 are 'off' but switch to on when the pedal is pressed, same with the clutch.
 
CallumP227 said:
Just checked and bother brake switch 1 & 2 are 'off' but switch to on when the pedal is pressed
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that's not good and technically quite impossible as in reality it's a 3 pole switch so if one contact is closed the other must be open ... i'm affraid to not be a nanocom glitch but it can be an ECU problem or wiring issue as well... let me think a bit and i'll try to find a solution to rule it out 100% without too much hassle
 
sierrafery said:
that's not good and technically quite impossible as in reality it's a 3 pole switch so if one contact is closed the other must be open ... i'm affraid to not be a nanocom glitch but it can be an ECU problem or wiring issue as well... let me think a bit and i'll try to find a solution to rule it out 100% without too much hassle
Click to expand...
That's would be great thanks.
 
So for you to understand i cropped the relevant part of diagram, the wire from pin 2(OG) from the switch must deliver + 12V to pin 10 black plug of ECU when the pedal is released otherwise it thinks the brake is applied and limits the fuelling, pin 1 comes from F25(+12v) and when the pedal is depressed sends 12V to the lamps on pin 3

make somehow with a piece of wire to bridge pin 1 with 2 at the connector from behind in situ with posi-taps or skotchlocks or how ever you can then check again with nanocom, if it's the same with nanocom with 1-2 bridged to rule out a glicth let it bridged and drive test it so, nothing bad can happen as the lamps should still work but the engine should have more power.

if nothing happens that way you'll have to get to the ECU and check with multimeter if you get +12V in pin 10 black plug/C0658, (OG-orange/green)wire, do that (with bridged switch)
(connectors views are from inside/pin side)

accroding to the results we'll speak again
 

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... PS as i know it's not easy to make contorsionism there a simple way would be to give a +12V with a wire directly to pin 10 black plug first and see then with nanocom or drive test it cos normally it should show switch 2 = On then...just make sure you dont give power to other pin cos that can be dangerous... unfortunately i cand find simplest way to rule this out...if with 12V applied to pin 10 nanocom reading on switch 2 stays still OFF and doesnt change when you apply the brake means it's a nanocom glitch
 
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sierrafery said:
Straight from the battery cos that's what it gest anyway through the fuse, the ECU has a limiter inside
Click to expand...
OK I ran power straight from the battery to pin 10 and the ignition came on and fuel pump started running, started her up and now brake switch 2 is 'off' permanently and brake switch one is 'off' untill press when it switches to on.
After quick test drive its still the same and I have to remove the cable to turn the engine off.
 
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Then this is ruled out, don't bother with it anymore, unfortunately nanocom is mixing up things here while the description from the WSM has some innacuracy too... i'm outof ideas completely now with your problem, let me know if you find the real issue or how you fixed it. Good luck...if i was you i'd go for a remap
 
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