Turboman said:
Tunnels maybe aren't so good in a hot climate, the sun will also perish the plastic quicker than at higher latitudes.

Concrete, I was never that struck on, it is pretty expensive to lay, slippery when wet, and if water does blow in in a storm, it doesn't soak away so quickly on concrete as on bare earth.

The old Cornish way was to ram the earth floor, and then smear it with cow dung, which polished up quite well.
If you have cattle, they will do this for you quite naturally.
If you don't, a whacker plate does quite a good job, and they aren't expensive to hire for a few days.
Click to expand...
Such a shame we live in sheep country! I could prolly borrow some off a neighbour!!!
Our drive in the UK is scalpings rolled and whacked with a proper machine. Then big gravel on the top. It does a good job and keeps the weeds down but to work on it I have to use things to lie on and roll jacks around on. I tend to use hardboard or old kitchen worktop, which is good and tough.
 
Turboman said:
Tunnels maybe aren't so good in a hot climate, the sun will also perish the plastic quicker than at higher latitudes.

Concrete, I was never that struck on, it is pretty expensive to lay, slippery when wet, and if water does blow in in a storm, it doesn't soak away so quickly on concrete as on bare earth.

The old Cornish way was to ram the earth floor, and then smear it with cow dung, which polished up quite well.
If you have cattle, they will do this for you quite naturally.
If you don't, a whacker plate does quite a good job, and they aren't expensive to hire for a few days.
Click to expand...
Thinking about it, in our poly-tunnel we dug it over and trampled it, having killed all the weeds, then put down the highest quality weed barrier we could get. It has stayed more or less like that ever since, altho obvs we have to kill the weeds around the edges. So might do that again.
But I can't mess about with the lift. That'll deffo need concrete/piles/ whatever.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Thinking about it, in our poly-tunnel we dug it over and trampled it, having killed all the weeds, then put down the highest quality weed barrier we could get. It has stayed more or less like that ever since, altho obvs we have to kill the weeds around the edges. So might do that again.
But I can't mess about with the lift. That'll deffo need concrete/piles/ whatever.
Click to expand...
I don't really like them. Two post I don't think are safe. Four post are, but you need a very high roof. For the amount of work I do on vehicles, I think jacks, wood blocks, and axle stands are adequate.
 
Turboman said:
I don't really like them. Two post I don't think are safe. Four post are, but you need a very high roof. For the amount of work I do on vehicles, I think jacks, wood blocks, and axle stands are adequate.
Click to expand...
I've debated two post against 4 post before, both on here and with my mate who may well be fitting one eventually.
I agree that 2 post prolly are a bit more likely to be dangerous, but i think a lot depends on how they are used and what you try to do with them. 4 posts are supposedly inherently safer, but I knew a guy nearly killed by one that suddenly let the ramp go. And of course you still have to have other gear on them when you want to support the vehicle to be able to work on the suspension. 2 post give you massive accessibility.
Ideally you'd have one of each!
You are right about the need for a high roof, altho if you are prepared to work sitting down or on your knees it doesn't have to be so high. But that kinda defeats the object of one.
As you say, it depends how much time you want to spend working on cars. Ideally I'd spend a lot more time on them. And I'd get jobs done far quicker and easier with one. The older I get, the more my back and knees give me gyp, and that would also be less of a problem.
This may be a pipe dream but hopefully not!
 
skintnow said:
No you don't as I have a similar issue .so please please please post the results.
Click to expand...

I’m collecting a “star line” pump tomorrow from euros, the only other one they had was like £400… this is £65 on their sister site car parts 4 less.

so I’ll fit it tomorrow or during the week and report if it fixes it
 
I’m lost what to do, I’ll check the inlet tomorrow to rule it out, on this one stretch of road I’ve been “testing” on my one with the hgf does 85, mine does 75 so I’m losing 10pm. Think I’m just gonna map it and play ignorance to whatever issue it is lol
 
Ended up getting a storm remapped ecu, improved eveything bottom end is amazing, and it’ll pull nicely until 80 and get to 95, but I can actually accelerate up hills now in 5th at 2k rpm im which makes it so much more drivable. Map is absolutely smokeless other than when I’m bashing off the popcorn limiter I asked for, so for everyday it’s great and off-road you can be a bit of a yob
 
Freelander1banger said:
Ended up getting a storm remapped ecu, improved eveything bottom end is amazing, and it’ll pull nicely until 80 and get to 95, but I can actually accelerate up hills now in 5th at 2k rpm im which makes it so much more drivable. Map is absolutely smokeless other than when I’m bashing off the popcorn limiter I asked for, so for everyday it’s great and off-road you can be a bit of a yob
Click to expand...

Glad its sorted bud. :)
 
Also as a side note, when the ecu arrived I had my friend sync the immo to it, when I asked about coding injectors he reckons it’s unnecessary (he’s doing me a favour and it ran so didn’t argue) but I drove it around all day and home again and it’s been fine, what does coding the injectors to the ecu do?
 
Freelander1banger said:
Also as a side note, when the ecu arrived I had my friend sync the immo to it, when I asked about coding injectors he reckons it’s unnecessary (he’s doing me a favour and it ran so didn’t argue) but I drove it around all day and home again and it’s been fine, what does coding the injectors to the ecu do?
Click to expand...
Good question, I have heard it may run rough unless you do it. I certainly paid to have mine done when I changed my ecu, and the fecking thing had to be persuaded to talk to the BCU etc as otherwise it wouldn't even feckin start.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Good question, I have heard it may run rough unless you do it. I certainly paid to have mine done when I changed my ecu, and the fecking thing had to be persuaded to talk to the BCU etc as otherwise it wouldn't even feckin start.
Click to expand...

Yes I read this aswell but he said not to bother, literally sync’s it in under 30 secs. Seems to start idle drive fine, but wondering if I’m missing out on any extra power or something
 
So I messaged storm tuning, he basically said the injectors when new would either squirt to much or to litter fuel, so the codes refer to that so the ecu can compensate.. the ecus they send out have them set the half way mark so it doesn’t run to bad, he said it’s not the end of the world not coding them but would recommend it if possible. Also pointed out these tolerances were applicable 20 odd years ago when new
 
Freelander1banger said:
So I messaged storm tuning, he basically said the injectors when new would either squirt to much or to litter fuel, so the codes refer to that so the ecu can compensate.. the ecus they send out have them set the half way mark so it doesn’t run to bad, he said it’s not the end of the world not coding them but would recommend it if possible. Also pointed out these tolerances were applicable 20 odd years ago when new
Click to expand...
Velly intelesting!!
 
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