Check if the brake lights are normally working, even if they do u have to make sure that when the pedal is released the brake switch closes to feed the ECM(and that feed is actually reaching the ECM), otherwise the ECM "thinks" the brake is on and inhibits fueling. Happened to me recently, worth a check...but there could me many other causes too...see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1949274-post7.html
 
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Hi thanks for the offer Clanforbes am in ladybank. Just had a look at injector loom to the ecu :censored: got oil in it so i take it that means a new loom . will i get away with just the injector loom or will i need ti renew the part to the ecu ??????? what u think guys
 
Hi thanks for the offer Clanforbes am in ladybank. Just had a look at injector loom to the ecu :censored: got oil in it so i take it that means a new loom . will i get away with just the injector loom or will i need ti renew the part to the ecu ??????? what u think guys

Clean out the plugs at the ECM as a temp fix and replace the injector loom only
 
Up date cleaned ecu & all the connectors even cleaned the injector loom not renewed it yet runs like a dream now .Back to the injector loom cleaned it all out left it dry out over night then sealed up the connector as best as i could so now just have to hope thats the end of oil leaking down to the ecu :scratching_chin:
 
Up date cleaned ecu & all the connectors even cleaned the injector loom not renewed it yet runs like a dream now .Back to the injector loom cleaned it all out left it dry out over night then sealed up the connector as best as i could so now just have to hope thats the end of oil leaking down to the ecu :scratching_chin:

Good job, but as I mentioned, this is only a temporary cure as the injector harness will most probably need to be replaced.

The oil works it's way down through the copper strands inside the insulation by means of capillary action. It then, eventually, ends up in the red plugs (and various other places.) If, and when, you replace the original injector harness, this will stop it and eventually your ECU connector plugs will stop getting oiled up.

Personally, when I did mine almost two years ago, I bought a genuine harness (about £40) removed the old one and cleaned out the hole where it passes through the cylinder head and joins to the main loom, to clean the hole, I found the best way was to wrap your finger in a cloth, wet it with WD40 and give the hole a darn good poke and rub until it's all nice, shiny and clean. I know how that sounds, but I'm being dead straight with you here. I then smeared the inside of the hole with a good quality grease (to make it easier to get the new plug in and to help seal the hole from any oil passing through.) There are two o-rings on the plug at this point and I put plenty of grease in between them to "seal" them. I kept the old harness as I intend to re-wire it if I ever need to replace it again.

I also found oil in my CKP sensor plug and various other places along the main loom from the cylinder head, which I cleaned out, also in the defender there are some blue coloured connecting blocks close by the ECU which were also swimming in oil.

If you get away without replacing the injector harness, then you are doing well, but remember to keep checking your red plugs regularly as they will have more oil in them (I think it took almost two weeks before it stopped re-appearing in my plugs.)
 
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