1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Can you hear it running steady on ignition 2? Should be a nice steady buzz, no squeals or interruptions
JockHiltz
Member
you hear it when you first turn the key back before starting... then while running its a steady hum
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Pump sounds ok then mate
JockHiltz
Member
I replaced the fuel filter with no joy, but having more issues with loss of power now... quick question.... number 13 and 14 they are not on the other side of the filter as well? do you have to have the part umbers on hand?
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
look on www.lrworkshop.com for part numbers
one is a red rubber flappy thing its a one way valve, (13) goes closest to the chassis the white one (14) is the air bleed valve which fits into the end of (5) BOTH are only on the tank side fo the filter.
one is a red rubber flappy thing its a one way valve, (13) goes closest to the chassis the white one (14) is the air bleed valve which fits into the end of (5) BOTH are only on the tank side fo the filter.
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KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
This may help get your head around the fuel flow journey, one way valve on tank (LEFT) side flowing into filter, air bleed on tank side (LEFT) on rtn to tank via 9
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
13 is fuel pressure relief valve which would be next on my list after the filter valves
JockHiltz
Member
thanks for all this! Looks like my loss of power may have been from a sticky break caliber
.... but it's still starting hard. Its weird because I had some fuel issues over the winter like this and the same caliber stuck, but never stuck agin since until now having more fuel issues 
JockHiltz
Member
This is what comes up with the non return valve part number... it this just in inner bits?
When I had starting issues I checked the non return valve and it was missing. I bought this
And it fits in the end of the pipe like in post #25 above
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Discodevon
Well-Known Member
If you rely on this vehicle and intend on keeping it, if anything to do with the housing is suspect just change the complete housing inc the bolts which bolt it onto the chassis
JockHiltz
Member
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
once in the liftime around 80-120K miles seems to be average. but depends on environment near the sea half that etc I see you are in Car Na Daaa, which is pretty harsh, dont know if they use salt on the roads etc but it kills under car componants, stupid place to put the fuel filter if you ask me, right next to the rear wheel, some have relocated it but its a faff to do so. You can fabricate a better guard for it but it still gets hammered, its basically getting jet washed with salty water grit everytime you drive it
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
JockHiltz
Member
hahaha, yeah, we seem to like to use salt on our roads...I usually undercoat my vehicles twice a year... but still only slows down the inevitable... with that said, my 90 was imported from southern Italy about 3 years ago and has about 170km on it... I have have the non return valve and air bleed valve in the post now... if that doesn't help the housing it will be.
and yes, stupid location for a fuel filter... I like the easy access but its just getting nailed with road salt and weather.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
If you buy a housing it does not always come with the nozzels / fittings just be aware. The best thing to do if you cant be bothered relocting the thing, is to use a bit of plastic / inner arch stuff to just ensure the worst of the spray from the wheels is kept away from it. Also a liberal coating of waxoyl / dinatrol is usefull across all of it, makes a messy job when it comes to replacement but you dont do it that often so worth it,
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
does your one have the cover? often find its missing,
JockHiltz
Member
good to know.... and yes, we have a product called fluid film.... it coats and creeps to protect the metal...
