a question before I do it later, I don't have any auto cable lying about, could I use some single core off an old lawnmower as long as the rating/thickness is similar, just to test quickly?


As long as the wire is rated at more than the pumps requirements.

If it has a 20 amp fuse, then the wire needs to be rated above that, say 40 amp.

You don't want the wire melting instead of the fuse....
 
okay guys. tested it, and no fuse is blowing. wire I used was on the slightly thin side, so will need to get some decent auto cable. It's totally mad max style at the moment, and no way am I going to drive it/put strain on the wiring by doing so until the correct cable in in. 40A cable seems a bit thick, I know you can get 27.5A, that seems about right as it is about double the thickness of standard 13A cable.
Many thanks.
 
Well if you use your noddle and fit a hidden switch in the new wire you have a cheap and very unusual immobiliser.
 
Well if you use your noddle and fit a hidden switch in the new wire you have a cheap and very unusual immobiliser.
nice idea, switch under the drivers seat box:D

the only thing thats concerning me is that the old wire was grouped with about another 20 going out the box. If one fails, then they all can.....
 
New cable run laid, used 28A as thats all that the store had in stock.
Been 2 runs, in total 15 miles and no issues.
It might be my imagination but it feels about 10% down on power, will keep an eye on it and probably get the ECU checked later this week for any fault codes.
many thanks all
 
New cable run laid, used 28A as thats all that the store had in stock.
Been 2 runs, in total 15 miles and no issues.
It might be my imagination but it feels about 10% down on power, will keep an eye on it and probably get the ECU checked later this week for any fault codes.
many thanks all

I was once called out to a Peugeot 405 or 406 where it idled, would drive a bit, but absolutely no go about it.

Felt like fuelling problem, so checked everything and asked a few questions.

As soon as the guy told me where he'd driven, I simply lifted the rear seat, got the pump out and used a broom handle to pop the bottom of the tank back into shape!

He'd driven on rough ground and somehow managed to force the bottom of the tank hard against the bottom of the fuel pump so when he demanded power, the tank stopped any decent amount of fuel to flow as the pump was sucking it harder onto the bottom of itself. Plastic tank see.

I am not suggesting this is your problem, but always look for unusual causes....
 
2 days now with the new cable installed. no fuses blown.
I have noticed it accelerating far better sometimes than others on similar flat ground, but at no time does it stop accelerating like it was doing before I changed the pump. This has only happened a couple of times. I might change the relay as a matter of course. All filters have been changed in the last 2 months.
 
4 days on and we are still working.
I cleaned the MAP sensor earlier and have left the MAF off for now. holy smokes! it goes like stink.
I have a 100 mile round trip tomorrow and have a friend close by in case of any issues.
 
The other thing if you haven't already checked is turbo wastegate issues. That can yield intermittent performance problems, slow pickup pulling away from junctions and suchlike.
 
Back from my 100 miles trip there. No issues. Included towing a boat the second half of the journey. many thanks to you all for the help. I'm going to just keep plugging away cleaning anything that could be clogged. cheers
 
Whilst its annoying the knowledge will help you with issues that are bound to occur in the future:D
 
Back from my 100 miles trip there. No issues. Included towing a boat the second half of the journey. many thanks to you all for the help. I'm going to just keep plugging away cleaning anything that could be clogged. cheers
how did you get on in the end and what was the cause?
 

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