Ttuck3r

Active Member
Well Gents / Ladies, i've spent the last 2 hours searching and ive now got 2 answers with which to go by, im now asking is there a possible 3rd.

A week ago i jumped in my TD5 90 Defender, key in the ignition and i noticed the fuel pump isn't running, took the key out put it back and bang it jumped to life and done so until this morning when everything is working apart from my fuel pump, ive checked all fuses OK. I have got some water in the drivers seat box from driving in heavy rains.

1) Dead Fuel pump
2) Yellow relay under drivers seat or
3)

And is there a way to check before i drop the tank and the relay.

Thanks in advance
 
Might be worth changing the relay anyway as they're fairly cheap and do deteriorate over time. If you're talking about a Defender, some people cut a hole in the tub floor instead of taking the tank out, and you don't have to worry about draining it. There's some instructions on here somewhere about where the best place to cut is.
 
id you drop the tank out remeber to drain it first, a 110 tank full of derv hurts if falls on you, I should know....
 
Ok, ive now discovered the pump is good, ive traced continuity from the engine bay right back to the fuel pump all is good there, now when i get to the relay behind the gear shifter there is a green relay that looks as if the socket has had some heat and if i bridge the pins 30 and 87 the fuel pump comes to life..

How do i test the relay as i dont have a spare one of these!
 
Ok, ive now discovered the pump is good, ive traced continuity from the engine bay right back to the fuel pump all is good there, now when i get to the relay behind the gear shifter there is a green relay that looks as if the socket has had some heat and if i bridge the pins 30 and 87 the fuel pump comes to life..

How do i test the relay as i dont have a spare one of these!

Well it sounds like you already have. Relay out - pump works. Relay in - pump doesn't work. I suppose the only other thing to check is that the wire that opens and closes the relay becomes live when the ignition is switched on. If that works, then it's the relay at fault.
 
Thanks for the Replies, Im completely lost now.

1) All wiring front to back is good for continuity
2) Fuel pump is good, tested from green relay by gear shifter.
3) Checked relays with 12v supply and multimeter and they are all good
4) all fuses are good

And yet i still have no fuel pump when i turn the ignition on....could it be my ECU or even ignition?
 
Ok, ive now discovered the pump is good, ive traced continuity from the engine bay right back to the fuel pump all is good there, now when i get to the relay behind the gear shifter there is a green relay that looks as if the socket has had some heat and if i bridge the pins 30 and 87 the fuel pump comes to life..

How do i test the relay as i dont have a spare one of these!

so you had pump running?
 
Aye, if I put a jump across the relay slot it fires up, I think it's 30 and 87 on the green relay by the gear shifter.
 
trying to get my hand on a Diagnostic machine is proving harder then i thought, so i think a purchase will have to be made, can anyone tell me a good inexpensive unit to buy..
 
Are you getting 12v at the relay from the wire that activates it? Not the pump supply, but the one that switches it on and off? That would be what I'd look at next.
 
trying to get my hand on a Diagnostic machine is proving harder then i thought, so i think a purchase will have to be made, can anyone tell me a good inexpensive unit to buy..

For a home user nanocom is the best choice not cheep tho the TD5's are not ODB compliant
 
Hi I recently had very same problem with 02 plate TD5 Defender, turned out to be bad earth on ecu under seat. Try running an earth wire from ECU mounting bolt straight to negative battery terminal and see if that cures your problem.
 
Hi I recently had very same problem with 02 plate TD5 Defender, turned out to be bad earth on ecu under seat. Try running an earth wire from ECU mounting bolt straight to negative battery terminal and see if that cures your problem.

Thanks for the Suggestion, tried it this evening, with no success, i was really hoping!!!
 
It's taken me a week to get to this point, going through all the wiring. At the moment I have no switched Earth from the ECU to the fuel pump and no live feed out to the injectors so ECU is Bricked. Thanks must go out to Alive, even though Gary Wood is on Holiday with poor mobile reception, he still managed to answer all my questions and offer to get me sorted with a new MSB ECU and remap early next week, thanks again the mans a legend..
 
Well ladies and Gentlemen after a month of my Landy collecting dust it's now back on the road and pulling like a freight train.
The ECU was beyond repair and Gary Wood of Alive tuning had never seen anything like it, essentially it was bricked, there was no visible damage or burnt smell but all the info on the MSB was non existent. So a new one was installed with a cheeky remap and bang the beast is Alive " excuse the pun" thank you very much Gary for all your help
 
No idea how it could have happened, all possibilities ruled out by some perfectly good explanation, and leaves the mind boggled.
 

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