dag019

dag019

Well-Known Member
I need access to the fuel pump on my td5 90 as it keeps blowing the fuse. No-one seems to be paying any attention to my other thread regarding this (link) so thought I would start a new thread for the very specific task of creating an access panel in the rear floor.

I know that in order to access the pump I either need to drop the tank or cut and access panel. I am looking to cut an access panel in the floor and plan on using a boat/motor home circular access panel similar to this (link) Can any one confirm the diameter that is needed?

Also I have found this thread (link) on another forum detailing where the centre of the hole should be:

553.jpg


Can anyone confirm this is correct and will work for my 90 as well? I assume they are all in the same place and there was no variation through the model years?
 
I cut one in mine to make it easier to access the top of the 110 300tdi tank. I just cut out a square section, hinged it, stuck a wee catch on and it works fine. It's hidden under the matting so you don't even know its there
 
the_wolf said:
I cut one in mine to make it easier to access the top of the 110 300tdi tank. I just cut out a square section, hinged it, stuck a wee catch on and it works fine. It's hidden under the matting so you don't even know its there
Click to expand...
Mine will be hidden under matting but if I need to buy hinges and a catch I might as well by one of the proper access panels. It should not be too much work to neatly cut it out and and fit the surround for the screw in plate.

I just need someone with a td5 to confirm the measurement before I go about cutting up the floor and getting the position wrong.
 
dag019 said:
Mine will be hidden under matting but if I need to buy hinges and a catch I might as well by one of the proper access panels. It should not be too much work to neatly cut it out and and fit the surround for the screw in plate.

I just need someone with a td5 to confirm the measurement before I go about cutting up the floor and getting the position wrong.
Click to expand...
I just eyeballed it. Never even thought about having a plate to screw over the hole but all the same I guess
 
If it keeps blowing a fuse I would suggest you would be better off just dropping the tank so you can check all the wiring correctly.
 
Interceptorxj said:
If it keeps blowing a fuse I would suggest you would be better off just dropping the tank so you can check all the wiring correctly.
Click to expand...
I am going to run a direct cable as a test to check if it is the pump or the cable run. Depending on what this shows I will then drop the tank, I am hopeful that with a direct cable it still blows the fuse showing it is the pump that is at fault rather than needing to trace breaks in the loom. But an access panel if done neatly, as I plan, is going to be a benefit in the long run. I don't know why it wasn't included like it was in the discos.
 
It will be much easier to do the access panel with the tank removed so you can see the cross braces and use a jigsaw etc.
 
Looking at this if the centre point was moved towards the front slightly it could have been fitted without cutting the cross brace still enabling the pump to be removed.


"Also I have found this thread (link) on another forum detailing where the centre of the hole should be:"

553.jpg


Can anyone confirm this is correct and will work for my 90 as well? I assume they are all in the same place and there was no variation through the model years?[/QUOTE]
 
Interceptorxj said:
Looking at this if the centre point was moved towards the front slightly it could have been fitted without cutting the cross brace still enabling the pump to be removed.
]
Click to expand...

Well I have cut a small access hole to inspect and plan on doing exactly that. I am hoping to not need to remove the cross brace. Although I will need to cut a larger hole It looks like there should be enough clearance to the left to still replace the pump with the brace still in place.

D49FBAE9-94AF-4CB6-98CC-15D6F063431F.jpeg

I have also found the problem and the reason for the high resistance and blowing of the fuse. It looks like the pump plug socket has been damaged and melted.

006D7918-EBE3-48DA-A572-DBF465FE79F3.jpeg

Running lengths of wire direct to various points in the harness did not result in blowing the fuse and refitting the plug carefully ensuing the live fuel pump pin was fully in place also then did not result in blowing the fuse so I have a pump again for the short term while i get a new one ordered. Any one have any recommendation on brand to go for?
 
Which Pump do i buy as a replacemnt?

upload_2021-9-9_15-29-11.png


I can see on ebay the unnamed replacements can be had for as little as £55. my gut reaction would be to go for the OEM VDO pump, but what is the difference between the two shown above. Also is there any benefit in getting one of these over the bearmach or allmakes version which is less than half the price?
 
Interceptorxj said:
It explains one is part no. for discounted bulk buy minimum order of 2.
Click to expand...
I was looking at the part numbers, .TR and .C8. but do you think that is just an internal code added to signify bulk purchase? the main part number is the same and ends in "G" to signify OEM.
 
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