Shaun2602

New Member
I recently acquired a defender td5 2004 plate, the fuel gauge was faulty when I bought the landrover , but wasn't concerned, it was not until I tried fuelng it up that I had a problem, it would only let me put 10 pounds worth of fuel in, and the petrol pump clicked off as if it was full, so I trickled in the diesel and it went into the landrover very slow as if it was full, I took it to a local garage, and they checked into the neck and said it looked as if it was full, decided to take the landrover for a 70 mile run over the weekend , just to see how it run, I had no problems. No fuel light , so thought it may be a full tank of fuel, the Mrs then got in it on Monday and the fuel light was on , so she went to fuel it up, but while on way to garage it started to chug. As if it was out of fuel, she managed to get 17 quids worth in. And it then clicked off as if it was full again, I'm baffled to say the least, Could any of you guys shed any light on this. Or point me in the right direction, Thanks in advance.
 
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Sounds like something is triggering the switch on the delivery nozzle that tells the diesel pump it's full. Mine does this sometimes. I think it's just fuel sloshing around in the pipe. I find that if I hold the nozzle slightly out of the filler and make sure it's not touching the sides it's less sensitive, and I can fill the tank up to the brim. Some pumps seem to be more sensitive than others.
 
On the TD5 the fuel gauge is part of the fuel pump, and it all sits in the tank. You may have two problems linked to this unit.

The fuel light may be linked to the faulty gauge, so you do actually have a full tank.

The chugging could be due to fuel starvation... often it's just a case of replacing the fuel filter, but do use genuine or an OEM filter... if this doesn't solve the chugging, check the gauze filter that is part of the fuel pump as that may be blocked.

Another thought... as I have also had this - 'Diesel Bug'... I rekon I got it from a batch of bio fuel - the previous owner may have dabbled in this???.... it forms a black sludge like an algae to grow in the fuel and can block the pump gauze filter - real bad and it could foul up the fuel gauge sender!?... I had to flush the tank, and run some Millers diesel addative once in a while through the system.

Have a look on the TD5 section of engines too.
 
My fuel light stays on whether the gauge reads full or empty. Have tried finding the problem for over four years but just learned to live with it. The gauge reads perfectly so any ideas gratefully accepted. Have had the pump out so many times I can do it blindfolded. The sender works fine and has been replaced with no change.
 
My fuel light stays on whether the gauge reads full or empty. Have tried finding the problem for over four years but just learned to live with it. The gauge reads perfectly so any ideas gratefully accepted. Have had the pump out so many times I can do it blindfolded. The sender works fine and has been replaced with no change.
My fuel light stays on whether the gauge reads full or empty. Have tried finding the problem for over four years but just learned to live with it. The gauge reads perfectly so any ideas gratefully accepted. Have had the pump out so many times I can do it blindfolded. The sender works fine and has been replaced with no change.
Hi shifty
When u remove the locking ring does the white nylon piece come with it mines stuck in the locling ring is that normal.
 
Check the fuel filler cap, it should vent from the tank, if it's faulty you may get fuel starvation from pressure in the tank.

If the engine shows signs of fuel starvation, and you think the tank is still full, loosen the filler cap and see if it runs OK again.
 
Cheers shifty
Sussed it chopped the locking ring then cleaned the plastic ring,that has wound back onto the tank,so wjen my new lock ring turns up hopefully lock on.
 
I haven't had my fuel pump out for nearly four years (must be a record for a TD5 owner) but from memory the white plastic collar screws onto the tank, and is locked into position by two little tabs that snap into notches on the tank when it's all the way down. Then put the rubber gasket/washer on. I like to apply a little sealant because they never seem to seal perfectly when put together dry. Then slide the pump in, again with a little sealant on the mating surface. Then the bit that needs three hands. You've got to push the pump fully home against the spring while getting the outer collar on. This is difficult to do as it tends to cross thread. I tend to use a bit of wood or screwdriver with a big handle against my chest so I've got my hands free. Or if you have a friend handy he or she can make themselves useful. You can get a special tool to rotate the lock ring, but I tend to tap them round with a screwdriver against the notches. It doesn't need to be cylinder head bolt tight, just enough to compress the gasket.
 
I haven't had my fuel pump out for nearly four years (must be a record for a TD5 owner) but from memory the white plastic collar screws onto the tank, and is locked into position by two little tabs that snap into notches on the tank when it's all the way down. Then put the rubber gasket/washer on. I like to apply a little sealant because they never seem to seal perfectly when put together dry. Then slide the pump in, again with a little sealant on the mating surface. Then the bit that needs three hands. You've got to push the pump fully home against the spring while getting the outer collar on. This is difficult to do as it tends to cross thread. I tend to use a bit of wood or screwdriver with a big handle against my chest so I've got my hands free. Or if you have a friend handy he or she can make themselves useful. You can get a special tool to rotate the lock ring, but I tend to tap them round with a screwdriver against the notches. It doesn't need to be cylinder head bolt tight, just enough to compress the gasket.
Cheers brown
I have cut the locking ring wih a grinder to fre the plastic ring,& ordered a new locking ring.
Regards
 

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