sierrafery said:
That would be a real lottery ...not the way to rule out things
Click to expand...

I was clearly responding to the OP's concern (quoted below) that diagnostics showing crank position sensor or throttle position input faults would be expensive. I was not suggesting that he just replace the CPS on the off chance. Hence why I said "If it is the crank position sensor...."

Landyle said:
Jeesh guessing that might be expensive
Is there anything else you might think no bother if not,
It was fine till ran out of diesel,,
Really thanks for thevreplys,,
Click to expand...
 
Heart breaking to see another landy owner go down the td5 fuel system rabbit hole :(:p

Truth is without being with the car, or having some diagnostic info none of us is going to diagnose it for you over forum. You'll most probably end up replacing most of the fuel system before you get anywhere :oops:

What condition is your fuel filter head in? Can you post a pic of it?

Check out 'vehicle repair toolbox videos' on YouTube, he has a td5 starting issue playlist and a video going through td5 fuel system on a whiteboard. You'll learn a bit :)

Thing is you could chase a fuel issue and it ends up being the CPS or throttle pedal as sierafery mentioned or something else.

Try a post in 'regional landyzoners' see if theres anyone you can meet in your neck of the woods with diagnostics kit. A lot of us on here have nanocom/Hawkeye etc
 
Si Click said:
I was clearly responding to the OP's concern (quoted below) that diagnostics showing crank position sensor or throttle position input faults would be expensive. I was not suggesting that he just replace the CPS on the off chance. Hence why I said "If it is the crank position sensor...."
Click to expand...
My statement with the lottery was about your recomendation of using cheap aftermarket CPS which IMO is wasted money and a lottery which can make more harm than clear things
 
sierrafery said:
My statement with the lottery was about your recomendation of using cheap aftermarket CPS which IMO is wasted money and a lottery which can make more harm than clear things
Click to expand...
He never mentioned CHEAP in his post, he said aftermarket and not all after market parts are bad.
I’ve fitted 2 after market CPS to different td5 and both are working perfectly many years on.
 
johnlad said:
He never mentioned CHEAP in his post, he said aftermarket and not all after market parts are bad.
Click to expand...
sorry then, i thought that ''not expensive" = cheap:rolleyes:
Si Click said:
If it is the crank position sensor then aftermarket ones are not expensive
Click to expand...
i also never mentioned in my post that all aftermarkets are bad so if the one linked in the folowing thread TD5 Crank position sensor. is considered ''not expensive'' then my bad cos i misunderstood things as i though that for example one like this https://www.lrdirect.com/NSC100790-supplied-by-allmakes-branded-pr2allmakes.html is considered "not expensive"

so if you fitted two "not expensive" aftermarkets which are perfect you should start playing at the lottery cos you are a very lucky man :cool:
 
sierrafery said:
sorry then, i thought that ''not expensive" = cheap:rolleyes:
i also never mentioned in my post that all aftermarkets are bad so if the one linked in the folowing thread TD5 Crank position sensor. is considered ''not expensive'' then my bad cos i misunderstood things as i though that for example one like this https://www.lrdirect.com/NSC100790-supplied-by-allmakes-branded-pr2allmakes.html is considered "not expensive"

so if you fitted two "not expensive" aftermarkets which are perfect you should start playing at the lottery cos you are a very lucky man :cool:
Click to expand...
Get over yourself
 
sierrafery said:
sorry then, i thought that ''not expensive" = cheap:rolleyes:
i also never mentioned in my post that all aftermarkets are bad so if the one linked in the folowing thread TD5 Crank position sensor. is considered ''not expensive''
Click to expand...

Without wishing to stir this further, my take on the aftermarket CPS is that I will bite the bullet and buy a genuine one if my existing one fails. However, the one I have in my get-you-home spares kit is by Bearmach, and yes it does work. Having a second one handy that you know to be good also strikes me as useful for eliminating the CPS when diagnosing faults. So genuine on the truck, aftermarket in the spares box.
 
Landyle said:
Did it bump start or start on easy start and Rev ok above 2500
Injector seals next on my list,
Thanks for the input,
Click to expand...
Had to prime then pump went with pump gone had to churn on starter for 30 seconds
 
Landyle said:
Did it bump start or start on easy start and Rev ok above 2500
Injector seals next on my list,
Thanks for the input,
Click to expand...
"Thinks", go back to the original problem, you ran out of fuel, what would be all the vehicle's ECUs answers to that, would it for instance do something to try to protect the turbo? Common sense dictates that stuff that has nothing to do with the fuel system should still be OK, i.e. Crank sensor etc. Why would it go wrong coincidentally? But if an engine stops quickly when at motorway speed it certainly does not do the turbo bearings any good. And that is just one example of collateral damage. Did the engine sound normal once you got it running? If the turbo has been damaged, it will sound different.

That said I would bite the bullet and get the diagnostics read, there maybe something there that needs resetting, I don't know but Sierrafery, or James Martin or some of the other gurus may have an idea. But it is old school knowledge that running the tank dry is never a good thing as all the crud floating around in the bottom of the tank, including water, will then get into the works and do harm, even if all it does is block filters. Water will get through filters and then Lord knows what it could do to injectors etc.

Getting diagnostics read even buy a garage, is not that expensive in the long run and obviously if you can find a friend with a tool, or buy a Scantool, as recommended to me by Sierrafery, (thanks mate!), then that might be a good way to go.
Best of luck
 
Hi well my saga just continues
Had to have a beer before I can even try Write this f in thing !

I managed to find a guy with a fancy snap on diagnostic to plug it in
It wouldn’t communicate with it !
He tried a cheaper one he had nothing,
Tried another guy he new with a laptop and dongle wouldn’t connect,,
So after talking to them and some of the comments
I thought I’d try the crank sensor after eventually finding it change that for a intermoto one
Nothing exactly the same turns over fine but not even a cough,,
Try the easy start again
Fires and runs but only above 2.5k rpm anything under Just won’t pull and eventually dies out,
Won’t restart,
So then ordered injector seals and washers changed those not easy for a sparky
But managed with the help of you tube put it all. Back together two days
And changed wiring harness
Tried it again just the ff in same,,!
I then found someone with another discovery swapped air sensor
And the output one
All Just the same nothing won’t start flys over but nothing
Give it easy start struggles a bit but then fires keep it over 2.5k rpm revs and runs fine
Let it slowly down to 1k rpm just ticks over with foot on put your foot down struggles very slowly to increase revs
Hits just above 2k rpm then flys back round to redline everything sounds right
Any ideas ?
I’d treat anyone to a night out let alone a beer,,
So ****ed off looking at susuki s !,
 
I'm starting to think that the fuel pump you put in may be a dud. Did you use a VDO one or an aftermarket copy?
Did you ever check the fuel pressure at the FPR? You should see a solid 4 bar, if not, that is your problem.
 
Si Click said:
I'm starting to think that the fuel pump you put in may be a dud. Did you use a VDO one or an aftermarket copy?
Did you ever check the fuel pressure at the FPR? You should see a solid 4 bar, if not, that is your problem.
Click to expand...
If this is true, why would the truck spin well at over 2500 revs and not below? On a 300tdi, I'd understand, but on a TD5?

I've forgotten but did OP check for inlet manifold leak, or would that make no difference? There must be a reason why a more volatile fuel, (Easystart) lets it start and run, but the diesel won't. Could poor compression in the cylinders be causing a failure to ignite the mixture? Could a valve problem cause the same thing? And how in heck could running out of fuel cause any of the above? Clutching at straws here.

Still think a proper diagnostic should help narrow things down a mile. It is almost as if the ECU has thrown its toys out the pram, to a certain extent. Have you tried rebooting it, i.e. disconnecting battery, and doing all the correct biz once reconnected? Costs nothing after all.
 
It sounds to me like you have a fuel pressure or quality issue. If the new pump is anything other than VDO, that could well be a problem area. Also you can quickly get an idea of the pressure by removing the fuel feed pipe (it's a quick release) from the FPR and just turn on the ignition. You should see a steady flow of diesel coming out. If you suspect that the fuel is contaminated, this is an easy way to empty the tank :)
 
Landyle said:
Hi well my saga just continues
Had to have a beer before I can even try Write this f in thing !

I managed to find a guy with a fancy snap on diagnostic to plug it in
It wouldn’t communicate with it !
He tried a cheaper one he had nothing,
Tried another guy he new with a laptop and dongle wouldn’t connect,,
So after talking to them and some of the comments
I thought I’d try the crank sensor after eventually finding it change that for a intermoto one
Nothing exactly the same turns over fine but not even a cough,,
Try the easy start again
Fires and runs but only above 2.5k rpm anything under Just won’t pull and eventually dies out,
Won’t restart,
So then ordered injector seals and washers changed those not easy for a sparky
But managed with the help of you tube put it all. Back together two days
And changed wiring harness
Tried it again just the ff in same,,!
I then found someone with another discovery swapped air sensor
And the output one
All Just the same nothing won’t start flys over but nothing
Give it easy start struggles a bit but then fires keep it over 2.5k rpm revs and runs fine
Let it slowly down to 1k rpm just ticks over with foot on put your foot down struggles very slowly to increase revs
Hits just above 2k rpm then flys back round to redline everything sounds right
Any ideas ?
I’d treat anyone to a night out let alone a beer,,
So ****ed off looking at susuki s !,
Click to expand...
One thing I haven't seen you mention in this thread is the fuel filter. Someone earlier mentioned the fuel filter housing being a cure for a similar problem but you seem to have ignored that advice. Have you even changed the filter itself? (The one under the offside rear wheel arch). Start simple... You'll kick yourself if that's been the problem all along, a tenner and 5 minutes of your time...
 
Really Thanks for the input guys
I’m going to try check the fuel pressure at the FPR, as it is a copy pump,
Bobdog I changed the filter same time I put new pump in,
Since then iv put new non return valve,and air bleed valve,
I certainly have plenty of diesel getting to the front but need to check pressure,
Cheers for the info on the obd compatibly that helps,
I need to track a Hawkeye or nanacom down,
Looks like another weekend smelling of diesel !!
Even in bother with mrs as dog now smells of it,
Thanks again have a better weekend than me,,.!
 
Have seen similar problem on a couple of other diesels (not LR) where either the fuel filter housing was over tightened and crushed the o-ring seal or the o-ring was not wiped with oil/fuel before putting it in.
This cause air to seep into fuel line so would not start but once started with easy start would run,
 
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