Hi all, just been under the disco replacing the front roll bar links when I noticed one of my front springs has snapped on the bottom coil (break fairly oxidised so been like it for a while I'm guessing). Searched for some replacement springs and bearmach are doing heavy duty ones that look like they're +45mm for half the price of a standard pair!?.. My disco is 7seater, air bag rear. Question is.. Anything I should be aware of if I change from standard to these heavy duty? Nb. I don't off road or tow etc.. So not looking to spend any more than necessary.. Cheers
Quite, an unwanted lift, why bother?
Was just the fact that the heavy duty springs are half the price of the standards that had me tempted, but having read a few threads talking about a harsher ride and possibly needing to extend brake lines etc.. Have decided to pay the extra and stay stock.
Haynes manual has changing the spring as 4/5 difficulty, but again, having looked at some how to articles, it looks pretty straight forward.. Am I missing something?
Haynes manual has changing the spring as 4/5 difficulty, but again, having looked at some how to articles, it looks pretty straight forward.. Am I missing something?
NPG
Well-Known Member
Like you say, you'd probably had to change the brake flex pipes, lengthen the ABS sensor wiring and maybe even replace the shocks so they can extend a little bit further. When I restored mine (still have the original), all I needed was a heavy duty spring compressor. Apart from that, it's a straight forward job.
NPG
Well-Known Member
So it should be a walk in the park really...just unclip the ABS sensor wiring and the brake flex pipe, disconnect the ARB link and support the vehicle from the chassis to let the axle drop as far as possible. And of course, support the axle so it won't drop once you disconnect the suspension. Good luck.
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
Leave the ARB in place and use the factory jack to push the axle away from the chassis. On full extension ie when the brake hose is getting tight, the spring should pop out no need for compressors. Use another jack under the axle and you can raise/lower as required. Of course the shock needs to come out first, so soak those bottom bolts well in advance with wd40 or penetrating oil if your posh.
drivers strut tower requires the header tank moved but just pull it up and move it aside, no issues there. Fit new isolators also with the springs. Springs are handed so left and right different lengths.
Fitting the shocks back in can be a bit of a pain if you dont put some weight on the springs. Line up the holes and jack up under the axle to get things lined up, bolts in with anti seize, all good.
Factory shock towers do go on the bottom section so prepare for that. I fitted new beefier ones.
drivers strut tower requires the header tank moved but just pull it up and move it aside, no issues there. Fit new isolators also with the springs. Springs are handed so left and right different lengths.
Fitting the shocks back in can be a bit of a pain if you dont put some weight on the springs. Line up the holes and jack up under the axle to get things lined up, bolts in with anti seize, all good.
Factory shock towers do go on the bottom section so prepare for that. I fitted new beefier ones.
All done, thanks for the pointers.. I hadn't read the last part until I finished so I did use compressors, but I can see the up side of jacking the axel away so you don't need the compressor, cause it is fiddly to put the springs back in with the compressors on them. I kept needing to shuffle them around so they weren't fouling. Only bit of advice I'd add for anyone else, is that when you've got the old springs out, it's worth cleaning the bolts that hold the bottom of the struts and running then in and out of their hole to make sure they go in easy, because I found lining the holes back up tricky and you don't need the added pain of a stiff rusty bolt! Cheers all!
