M

medusan

New Member
Hi,

I have just swapped my TD5 Discovery 10P engine for a TD5 15P from a Defender (apparently). It is all plumbed in and wired up. After a lot of fuel purging it started, ran very rough for about a minute and then died. It did this a couple of times. I know i have to get the new injectors coded into the ECU (NNN model) but i do not have access to a Nanocom/hawkeye or testbook. I borrowed my brothers SNAP-ON Ethos but that unfortunately only reads the codes and resets them by the looks of it. I have the codes of the injectors ready to put in. I was wondering if there was anyone in the Gloucester area who had access to a Nanocom or such and would be willing to help me out.

Cheers, Medusan.
 
medusan said:
Hi,

I have just swapped my TD5 Discovery 10P engine for a TD5 15P from a Defender (apparently). It is all plumbed in and wired up. After a lot of fuel purging it started, ran very rough for about a minute and then died. It did this a couple of times. I know i have to get the new injectors coded into the ECU (NNN model) but i do not have access to a Nanocom/hawkeye or testbook. I borrowed my brothers SNAP-ON Ethos but that unfortunately only reads the codes and resets them by the looks of it. I have the codes of the injectors ready to put in. I was wondering if there was anyone in the Gloucester area who had access to a Nanocom or such and would be willing to help me out.

Cheers, Medusan.
Click to expand...

Injector codes, should not stop the engine running, just not rev over 3000 very well.

Check main relay, crank sensor + wiring, fuel pump and regulator. They can be hard to get all the air out of fuel system, follow the purge procedure and repeat until pump quiet.

Check discovery2.co.uk for nanocom locator.
 
In the end i got it running - went out the next day and went through the exercise of running up the fuel pump/switch off repeat and it fired up and ran ok. fellow D2 from the D2 Boys Club forum then came round with his nanocom and coded up the injectors - ran even sweeter. Someone has also provided me with a 15p map for the ECU which i will be putting on soon. Good to finally prove a 15p will replace a 10p with a little bit of tinkering and get the landy up and running !

Cheers, medusan
 
medusan said:
.... Good to finally prove a 15p will replace a 10p with a little bit of tinkering and get the landy up and running !

Cheers, medusan
Click to expand...
Changed my 10p for a 15p over two years ago matey! Started up first time and has done over 30k miles to date with no issues.
 
When you upgraded from the 10p to 15P I take it you don't need to change the ecu or 10as unit?
 
Ruari said:
When you upgraded from the 10p to 15P I take it you don't need to change the ecu or 10as unit?
Click to expand...
No. I just coded the new injectors and away it went. In fairness it ran OK before coding the injectors but as I have a Nanocom it only took a few minutes to do.
 
Cheers Shifty.
Hoping I don't need to go down re-engine route.
Nanocom is a fantastic tool, I got one on loan but really think I should get my own.
Will have to read posts on the Nanocom Vs Lynxx Vs Hawkeye
 
Ruari said:
When you upgraded from the 10p to 15P I take it you don't need to change the ecu or 10as unit?
Click to expand...

No when i swapped all i did was sort out the water pipes (and removed EGR etc), engine was running ok, however i did get a fellow forum member to come round and do the magic with coding the injectors to the old ECU. You do have to make sure you have one of the later ECU's (mine must have had a replacement before i bought it so i got lucky). I could have had it mapped as per a 15P but i did not bother as it was running ok (although i think i still have the map somewhere). Someone told me it only made a difference at the top end of the rev range and i tend to treat mine a bit gentle.

I remember it did take a long time to repressurise the fuel system - i thought i had screwed up but patience and a lot of cranking/recharging the battery later it finally started.
 
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