Martin winter
New Member
Yea it is a new injector harness and a new engine loom
Scooby22
Well-Known Member
I have not read the whole thread so dont know if you have this file I found but just in case you have not I will add it.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachm...7/?temp_hash=a0b2ea97b52c36a5863c6bab70ac499d
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachm...7/?temp_hash=a0b2ea97b52c36a5863c6bab70ac499d
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
mine is a 2003 td5
its obd2
the ecu is 2002 is nnn so is flashable etc
not heard of the elm i had access to the bosch / delphi one a while back but not any more sadly
its obd2
the ecu is 2002 is nnn so is flashable etc
not heard of the elm i had access to the bosch / delphi one a while back but not any more sadly
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
much appreciated intresting as my mystery wire is a cps 'screened earth' so gives me a step closer!
Tim4x4
Well-Known Member
I had a starting issue with my TD5 and after some investigation found the problem to be the wires to the crank sensor.
The crank sensor works on magnetic flux, when the flywheel rotates and one of the strategically placed holes in the flywheel circumference passes the end of the sensor a very low current is passed along the wire to the ECU firing an injector.
The wires to the crank sensor are routed very close to the starter motor and because of this they have to be screened from interference that may be picked up by the wires acting as an Ariel and giving the ECU rouge signals.
The crank sensor wires are vulnerable to heat from the engine and the insulation hardens and eventually cracks exposing both the screening and the core at this point it is possible for the starter motor to influence the injectors firing when trying to start the engine.
When I cleaned all the gunk from around the crank sensor and the wires I could see the degrading insulation and by the way this straightaway improved the starting but was not a full cure.
My solution was to replace the crank sensor wires I used two screened wires purchased from Maplin electronics and a new sensor plug purchased from Vehicle wiring products (Nottingham).
The stripping back of the insulation of these wires near to the ECU is not unusual it's so that access can be gained to the core of the screened wire checking the signal from the crank sensor.
The crank sensor works on magnetic flux, when the flywheel rotates and one of the strategically placed holes in the flywheel circumference passes the end of the sensor a very low current is passed along the wire to the ECU firing an injector.
The wires to the crank sensor are routed very close to the starter motor and because of this they have to be screened from interference that may be picked up by the wires acting as an Ariel and giving the ECU rouge signals.
The crank sensor wires are vulnerable to heat from the engine and the insulation hardens and eventually cracks exposing both the screening and the core at this point it is possible for the starter motor to influence the injectors firing when trying to start the engine.
When I cleaned all the gunk from around the crank sensor and the wires I could see the degrading insulation and by the way this straightaway improved the starting but was not a full cure.
My solution was to replace the crank sensor wires I used two screened wires purchased from Maplin electronics and a new sensor plug purchased from Vehicle wiring products (Nottingham).
The stripping back of the insulation of these wires near to the ECU is not unusual it's so that access can be gained to the core of the screened wire checking the signal from the crank sensor.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
thanks tim, another job added to the list!
The ecu pin out identifies it as a Screened earth, so signals could still be checked on the earthing side?
I need to measure the wave form really but alas not got anywhere near the right equipment,
Hi there. Did you manage to sort out your issues as we have exactly the same symptoms and the black wire is also exposed. When we do a jiggle on the wires close to the CPS etc. it changes the revs just briefly which means that it may be a short but we exposed all the wires and couldn't see anything.
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
NONE OF THE ABOVE
Sent ECU to Gary at Alive tuning, he is a legend.
He put the latest software version and associated standard fuel maps, correct for the VIN.
Works like new, still a mystery how the fuel map image got corrupted in first place, but likely to be ****s at garage trying to read diagnostic codes when I had poor starting due to fuel pump, or maybe oil getting in prior to me cleaning it.
So be careful what you plug into your ODB socket, personally I would give nano com a wide swerve, but thats just my opinion!
I now own a Delphi DS150E Pro diagnostic tool, which reads everything (if you hook it up to your dog it will probably reads heart rate blood pressure etc)
NONE OF THE ABOVE
Sent ECU to Gary at Alive tuning, he is a legend.
He put the latest software version and associated standard fuel maps, correct for the VIN.
Works like new, still a mystery how the fuel map image got corrupted in first place, but likely to be ****s at garage trying to read diagnostic codes when I had poor starting due to fuel pump, or maybe oil getting in prior to me cleaning it.
So be careful what you plug into your ODB socket, personally I would give nano com a wide swerve, but thats just my opinion!
I now own a Delphi DS150E Pro diagnostic tool, which reads everything (if you hook it up to your dog it will probably reads heart rate blood pressure etc
)
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
NONE OF THE ABOVE
Sent ECU to Gary at Alive tuning, he is a legend.
He put the latest software version and associated standard fuel maps, correct for the VIN.
Works like new, still a mystery how the fuel map image got corrupted in first place, but likely to be ****s at garage trying to read diagnostic codes when I had poor starting due to fuel pump, or maybe oil getting in prior to me cleaning it.
So be careful what you plug into your ODB socket, personally I would give nano com a wide swerve, but thats just my opinion!
I now own a Delphi DS150E Pro diagnostic tool, which reads everything (if you hook it up to your dog it will probably reads heart rate blood pressure etc
Hi
Glad u got it all sorted out in the end
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
me too buddy, actually sorted it a quite a while back but hunted for this thread tonight to send some pics to @1988smithy about ecu cleaning!Hi
Glad u got it all sorted out in the end
thanks again for your support earlier in the year, much appreciated!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Having read through that thread you've now scared the **** out of me
me and wires dont mix, those diagrams are like reading chinese to me I can't help but wonder if opening the ECU to clean oil out might've contributed? Its in back of my mind you should be in a speshul static free area..? Or more likely oil contamination?
Mine idles a bit funny to be honest but so did my disco, I thought it was just a td5 thing.
Like a faint rough spot for less than a second every 5 seconds or so
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Lol, nah electrics / electronics is my thing, besides the ecu was opened by me AFTER the problem occurred, actually as a last resort, before i sent it to Gary at Alive Tuning.
Either someone has plugged in a nanocom in the past and tried to remap the ecu with an unstable map, or (and most likely) the garage that it was towed too when furl pump went on the fritz plugged something into the diagnostic socket and caused the software to be corrupted.
when warm, you should rev and let go ......the engine note should fall evenly, then pause* and then steady idle.
You may find it falls without a pause at the end then the revs drop around 5 seconds later. depends on the software apparently.
PS do this in neutral and dont press the clutch. ( the clutch has a switch whitch drops revs for a gear change so buggers up this test!)
Either someone has plugged in a nanocom in the past and tried to remap the ecu with an unstable map, or (and most likely) the garage that it was towed too when furl pump went on the fritz plugged something into the diagnostic socket and caused the software to be corrupted.
when warm, you should rev and let go ......the engine note should fall evenly, then pause* and then steady idle.
You may find it falls without a pause at the end then the revs drop around 5 seconds later. depends on the software apparently.
PS do this in neutral and dont press the clutch. ( the clutch has a switch whitch drops revs for a gear change so buggers up this test!)
Always nice turning they key and realising its fixed along with a big sigh of relief
Ur so welcome mate , glad it was of some use in a small way , always the great thing about this forum being able to help each other
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
Having read through that thread you've now scared the **** out of me
I can't help but wonder if opening the ECU to clean oil out might've contributed? Its in back of my mind you should be in a speshul static free area..? Or more likely oil contamination?
Mine idles a bit funny to be honest but so did my disco, I thought it was just a td5 thing.
Like a faint rough spot for less than a second every 5 seconds or so
PS the static thing only applies to anything that can directly contact with the chips pins, to be honest i have never known any chip ever to have had a problem caused by engineers not wearing anti static devices, thats very 1980-1990 practice!
The LR ECUs are more clockwork than high end chip sets in an iphone!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Sounds about right shag, ive done that little rev and let go when I'm thinking the idle ain't right. wonder if it's idling fine then as disco had little rough spot as well. Its not intermittent its constant. Maybe just 5 cylinder idle
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
you are so right,!!!!
but i will tell you something, you are still paranoid for at least 3 months 9 always thinking its going to come back!) only then you get the real sigh of relief! I am 5 months on now!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Sound like me giving up the fags!
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
just make sure you did it with out holding down the clutch!
As I described both versions are normal and when engine is up to temp, just out of interest which one do you get?
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
the first one drops evenly then almost silence for a split second then steady idle,
the second as i said instead of a split second silence it idles then about maybe 3-5 seconds later it drops again to a steady idle.
but both are normal!
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
90% sure the first one from memory. Never on the clutch when I do it, usually waiting for the missus at the shops or the school and over analysing every sound coming from the engine
