As i said before, the genuine Bosch is good enough but the genuine LR is the best. Beware of any other aftermarkets

Been thinking about this a lot and just wondered two things. Have you checked the red plug to the ECU since you last cleaned it out? Also, what state is your air filter in?

Unplug the MAF. It will run slow for about 20 seconds until the ECU realises its buggered and then gives a base value.
If it then goes like it should it's a MAF problem. Mines just had its 2nd genuine one go in 5 yrs so its running around unplugged now

Tom Ca7, that's a lot of saying now, the MAF, just unplug it and see, it's quick, it's easy and it costs nothing. Must be worth it.

Thanks all for the replies. Just to add, at the weekend I took out my MAP sensor and it was long overdue a clean - in all honesty it does seem to run a bit better now, but it isn't where it should be. Higher revs still seem to have hesitation but it feels more pokey off the line now (or maybe its all psychological and I'm just living in hope)

I'll give the MAF a look at next (based on all the advice) as that seems to have been the cause in several cases. When it was replaced (old one went in the bin) it was reading 0 but the new one does read ok through the Nanocom, but as you all say, this doesn't necessarily mean it isn't the problem. I do have to admin that it isn't a genuine one, but rather a cheaper aftermarket MAF so all being said and done that could well be the cause.

New injector loom is in, hasn't made a difference but nice to get another job ticked off. ECU is still clean but will keep monitoring that for any residual oil that creeps that way over the coming weeks.

Fingers crossed it will be the MAF - Ill try disconnecting and running to see if there is any difference.

Again, thanks for all the helpful advice - nice to know I'm not the only one!

A live boost reading under load and a fuel pressure check would be both relevant... aren't the turbo hoses delaminated(soft) ?

So, disconnected the MAF and it appeared to run better. However, after reconnecting I wasn't so sure - maybe its the placebo effect. Going to try a couple more runs with and without the MAF to try and get confirmation. Additionally I'm going to do some live readings from the Nancom too.

Worth noting that since I cleaned the MAP sensor, initially it didn't appear to make much difference but after a day or so of running there is definitely some improvement.

Don't rely on your feel for the performance alone. Fill the tank, zero the tripmeter drive it for about half a tank with the MAF disconnected, refill the tank and note the miles travelled. The mpg or miles per litre figure will be a more empirical and objective measure of how efficient your engine is running.
If you find you are back to about where you should be with the mpg, then you know you need a good MAF. If you keep taking the MAF plug off and on you will not have a definitive answer, you need to do about 250 straight miles with it unplugged to be sure. If this doesn't really tell you. plug it back in and do another half tank and see what you get. Depending on the type of driving you have been doing, anything over 5.5 miles per litre will be fair for mixed types of routes. If you get closer to 6 mpl then you are doing really well. Best of luck!

If you are after a performance comparison rather than efficiency, then I simply use a local long dual carriageway up a fairly steep hill and see what speed I can achieve by the top. When I bought the truck it would struggle to make 50mph. By the time I had fixed a massive loss of boost from an intercooler to intake pipe connection and replaced the turbo with an upgraded CHRA cartridge it was hitting 63mph and still accelerating. Not the most scientific comparison, but a better metric than gut feel.