jon762

jon762

Member
Hello,

I recently bought a 99' disco 2 td5 es auto, was down on power and think the dealer just wanted rid of it. only got 80k on the clock and very tidy all round well spec'ed and the price was right so I bought It thinking will be something simple sticky waste gate etc. but so far I have gone around the usual suspects and drawn a bit of a blank as what it could be as everything seems to be working as it should and it starts on the button runs really smooth with no smoke of any kind :confused:

what I have tried so far,

boosting correctly measuring a peek of 228kpa on the hawkeye.
maf sensor new genuine measuring 60 on idle and 600 peek.
intercooler out and was very clean.
all turbo hoses replaced with silicone.
wastegate actuator control module had been bypassed now reinstated and working correctly.
no catalyst to get clogged.
egr blanked.
timing checked and correct.
injectors firing no misfiring or leak back into rocker cover.
no oil in ecu or loom.
fuel pressure reg replaced with genuine lr part
fuel pump replaced
no fault codes on the ecm or gearbox control module
map and air temp sensor clean and reading correctly
fuel filter replaced

after doing this lot I am at a bit of a loss as to where to go from here? only thing I can think of is the ecu but there doesn't appear to be any faults?

just to clarify when I say down on power, I measured the 0-60 it was 34 seconds on a flat road and it struggles to reach 70 so there is defiantly something wrong and roundabouts are terrifying!

any ideas greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Jon
 
Is it very revvy?

Could be the autobox clutches slipping, first port of call an oil change.

PS, better introduce yourself in the intro section.
 
that's the problem with the auto's all noise and no go! the auto box fluids and filter, how much fluid is in it, when was it changed and the filter!!
 
Thanks for the reply, will do,

will change the gearbox oil and have a look at the colour tomorrow but doesn't feel like there any slip in the box and it locks up into gear fine just feels gutless.

Giving it a rev in neutral it will rev up and past 3k but it is a bit more lethargic about it compared to my brother's td5 hence why I was thinking fuelling as there is no smoke even under full load, would have expected a bit of black.

Thanks,
Jon
 
jon762 said:
Thanks for the reply, will do,

will change the gearbox oil and have a look at the colour tomorrow but doesn't feel like there any slip in the box and it locks up into gear fine just feels gutless.

Giving it a rev in neutral it will rev up and past 3k but it is a bit more lethargic about it compared to my brother's td5 hence why I was thinking fuelling as there is no smoke even under full load, would have expected a bit of black.

Thanks,
Jon
Click to expand...

the one i have now was gutless, quite bad really, i changed everything i could to try to overcome it, then got it remapped, totally different car now, manual gearbox
Dynachip profesional ecu remapping
 
jon762 said:
Thanks for the reply, will do,

will change the gearbox oil and have a look at the colour tomorrow but doesn't feel like there any slip in the box and it locks up into gear fine just feels gutless.

Giving it a rev in neutral it will rev up and past 3k but it is a bit more lethargic about it compared to my brother's td5 hence why I was thinking fuelling as there is no smoke even under full load, would have expected a bit of black.

Thanks,
Jon
Click to expand...

Warm her up a bit.
Handbrake on, foot on brake. Stick it in Drive and put your foot down on the accelerator (no more than 5-10 seconds in any minute). What does it rev to?
 
I wonder why the wastegate actuator had been bypassed, presumably by the previous owner, probably looking for more boost. I'd be looking at the turbo for wear, ie play in the shaft.
 
thanks again for the reply's

stall test 2100rpm (short drive warm but not hot) think that's about right for a zf on a cold day?

regarding the turbo I think someone was chasing this fault about without anyway of reading boost pressure as it is getting 18.5psi (above atmospheric) at the inlet manifold with the module reinstated I think much more boost will put the ecu in limp mode the limits around 20psi isn't it? Condition wise there is a little end float in the shaft but nothing more than what I would expect for a 80k turbo, no oil no seapage that I can see and no blue out the back.

might give a remap/chip a go as it was on the plan anyway just would have liked to get it tip top first so I can get the most out of it with the map.

jon
 
I recall that 2600-2800 is normal. Below that is an indication that the engine is down on power. Unfortunately we knew that already!
 
Bennehboy said:
Perhaps time for a compression test.
Click to expand...

scary noises I really hope not! will look into it, not done a diesel before I assume you go through the glow plug ports?

the atf came out pretty clean on the first change so pretty confident the box and tc are good

Jon
 
From workshop manual.

"The MAF sensor sends a voltage of between 0 and 5 volts to the ECM, proportional to the mass of the incoming air. This calculation allows the ECM to set the EGR ratio for varying operating conditions."

However :rolleyes:

If any of the connections (and there's plenty of em) are slightly dirty........ ;)

P.S. Not just the MAF sensor, ECU plugs throttle pot etc etc etc :mad:
 
If you look at my project thread I just found out the maf was dead with a zero reading on live data. I bought a second hand unit from the scrappy for £20 it made an instant improvement with smoothness and low down grunt felt stronger. It was reading around 40.2 on idle after a quick clean with brake cleaner and a cotton bud today it now sits at around 48-50 which I believe is about right. It now doesn't feel as flat or limp as it used too. I wouldn't say it is a miracle cure but it certainly made a very good improvement to my car.
 
pulling the plug from the maf will also stick it in a default map mode. so if the performance is better then the maf is probably a bit worn (not that it sounds like that's the issue)
 
thanks for your input guys,

just a little update, chipping it was something I was always going to do with it anyway so I ordered an sports chip off ebay in a DIY installation kit. thinking I have done a fair bit of soldering and some work with pcb's how hard can it be? desolder the chip and solder in the new one, will have a crack at it and save myself a couple of hundred quid. well it turns out its very hard! the most fiddly thing I have ever tried to do. the old chip came off without to much of an issue except it took 2 of the pads and a bit of track with it :Cry: . emailed the seller and the guy is an absolute hero he reckon he can fix it and install the chip for still around half what a lot of the other companies are asking for straight forward chipping! should get it back Saturday will be interesting to see if it sorts it or weather there is still something wrong a bit deeper in the engine.



was going to do a bit of a how to on DIY chipping but I think now it would just be-
step 1 unplug ecu
step 2 send to expert
step 3 plug in the freshly chipped ecu
step 4 enjoy

jon
 
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