neilly
Well-Known Member
Look at the buying / alarm sticky in the disco section there is a picture of the circuit boards.
Cheers
Look at the buying / alarm sticky in the disco section there is a picture of the circuit boards.
Cheers
neilly
Well-Known Member
If you disable your Alarm and immobiliser , you do not even need your EKA code.
Cheers
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
the remobilisation coil creates an electromagnetic field which should ''excite" the fob to transmit a signal to the RF receiver, maybe there are some blind spots within that field so it's important for the fob to catch the wave so try somehow to keep the fob as close to it's normal position and try then... if this fails try to put new battery in the fob cos it's possible that the passive remobilisation function to need more power than the unlock command... strange anyway
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Ditto
neilly
Well-Known Member
Millertime_9
Active Member
Haha what have I started..!!
To update...
Transplanted my circuit board into a new key fob casing, along with my original blade. Changed the battery too.
Had my car battery tested and it was "good".
Car has been fine since yesterday but got a feeling I will be back on this thread...
Ideally i would like my old central locking system complete and ditch this after market thing, i have a feeling this was done when the car had original electrical problems which sierra will remember all too well. !
Easiest option might be disabling the alarm and immobiliser altogether
Is it the nanocom specifically you need or any computer at all?
To update...
Transplanted my circuit board into a new key fob casing, along with my original blade. Changed the battery too.
Had my car battery tested and it was "good".
Car has been fine since yesterday but got a feeling I will be back on this thread...
Ideally i would like my old central locking system complete and ditch this after market thing, i have a feeling this was done when the car had original electrical problems which sierra will remember all too well. !
Easiest option might be disabling the alarm and immobiliser altogether
Is it the nanocom specifically you need or any computer at all?
Si Click
Well-Known Member
And then write it in the owners manual in big letters so the next owner has a sporting chance.
Si Click
Well-Known Member
A Hawkeye will do it as well, not sure about the Lynx, Foxwell NT930 or iCarsoft 930, but it needs a LR specific tool.
anitarrc
Active Member
Icar... No
All rovacom(blackbox, nanocom) products yes
Hawkeye Pro or total yes
Fitch the aftermarket thing, it only causes conflicts.
Get a BCU of fleabay if you don't trust yours.
I have always 2 sitting here, preprogrammed v8 or diesel with immo off.
You still have to match engine ECU and BCU. I strongly recommend Rovacom in case of a V8. Td5 can be done with a Hawkeye
All rovacom(blackbox, nanocom) products yes
Hawkeye Pro or total yes
Fitch the aftermarket thing, it only causes conflicts.
Get a BCU of fleabay if you don't trust yours.
I have always 2 sitting here, preprogrammed v8 or diesel with immo off.
You still have to match engine ECU and BCU. I strongly recommend Rovacom in case of a V8. Td5 can be done with a Hawkeye
Glad you have a temporary workaround which seems to be working for the moment.
Almost as bad as my V8 D1 which can only be opened with the remote. The key won't open the door, although it will turn the ignition and starter!
Only just opens the filler flap!
Mechanical not electrical.
(Somewhere there is a school of bodging.)
Almost as bad as my V8 D1 which can only be opened with the remote. The key won't open the door, although it will turn the ignition and starter!
Only just opens the filler flap!
Mechanical not electrical.
(Somewhere there is a school of bodging.)
Note you said "changed the blade" How did you do that? I have been tempted to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull, but was too chicken. Is that really all it takes? Or is there a more sensible and sensitive way to do it?
Or did you have the blade cut?
Or did you have the blade cut?
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
Don't be scared, just grab hold of it with some pliers and give it a good hard tug
TA!!!
Millertime_9
Active Member
The einstein glued mine in, so didnt work using pliers, had to be destroyed!
So then you cut all the carp away from the end of the blade and fiddled around until it went in? Or did you?
The plastic on the end is molded on to the key part and should transfer from one fob to the next. As @Shimsteriom says, it's a git to get off and click back in to the new one. Mine is secure but a bit wobbly in the new fob.
Rangie Disco Sportsman
Active Member
Seem to recall something identical or very similar symptom wise to this with a someone's Disco 2 and it was slightly loose battery terminals. I remember it because battery and alternator voltage seemed to be all good so dismissed it originally. You would think if it was too loose there would have been other obvious symptoms but never were any.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the too battery quickly I seem to think does cause the alarm to go off and fob to stop working and solution is hard battery reset (remove terminal wires and touch together to discharge capacitors in electronics and wipe their memory)
Last thing I want is "a bit wobbly in the fob", sounds as if it only goes in and out once! I already have enough of a problem as the key will not always turn in te ignition as I think either the key of the wafers in the lock is/are wearing out. I'll live with mine as it/they are for the moment!
