RobertJ

Member
I have 2 90’ Td5’s one 10P and one 15P (MY2003).
I went on holiday with the 10P and took the 15P ECU as a spare with me as the 10P Defender did sometimes cut off while driving (probably the 2 big transistors on the way out). Luckily I had my other ECU with me as my 10P ECU failed, so I programmed my 15P ECU for the 10P Defender.

Back home I reprogrammed the 15P ECU back for the 15P Defender as I made backups on a SD and she started right away. Now I was abroad for a month and when I came home my 15P Defender does not start anymore.
The thing is, she turns over very good but won’t fire. Although the first attempt after sitting for a while she almost goes but then cuts on 1/3 of the fire (it that makes sense..)

This is what I have done and checked so far also after reading a lot on the forum and following the tips of @sierrafery

- reprogramed ECU again, 10as, injector codes and 3-way pedal are all ok.
- CPS gives 300rpm while cranking.
- CPS has a resistance of 1395 ohm, don’t know if that is good?
- Changed injector seals and washers some time ago, driven it hardly since.
- Fuse 20A (under the seat 4th from top) gives 36mv while the fuel pump is running.
- Bled it 100 times, when bleeding the FPR is making a hissing sound, assume this is ok?
- Put a new fuel filter on it
- Tank is 3/4 full
- With brake cleaner sprayed in the inlet it fires but dies at the same time.
- Fuel is streaming out of the FPR feed pipe
- Took off the return pipe from the fuel cooler to let airlocks escape while running the pump.
- Removed air bleed valve and the other red duck valve from the filter housing, which made no difference.
- No oil in loom
- pressed collision sensor
- Put a new strong battery in it.
- Tested the injectors with Nanocom, all worked.
- Injector codes are all ok but you can click on inj. Type and then a new set of codes appears and then another. The second set has the last digit changed into a * and the 3rd set has the last digit changed into a 5 or a 6. (Don’t know why but it is strange.)

I wanted to tow start it but then if she does not start I do not get it back on the driveway again, So I prefer not to try.:confused:
Also have no fuel pressure tester.

I always get them running but this drives me mad.
Any ideas??
 
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Looking again at the RPM, while cranking the RPM peaked short to about 11897 o_O
Then it dropped under the 300 and since it keeps steady between 300 - 305 rpm
 
I did a security learn when I put the ECU back and programed it. After the battery was drained and dead for a while. Then it did jot start anymore. So I yesterday dit a security learn again and it fired right up. How is it possible that the security code was gone over time? Does this come because of the drained battery?
Thanks anyway!
 
I did a security learn when I put the ECU back and programed it. After the battery was drained and dead for a while. Then it did jot start anymore. So I yesterday dit a security learn again and it fired right up. How is it possible that the security code was gone over time? Does this come because of the drained battery?
Thanks anyway!
You should only need to do that when you swap the ECU’s.
 
You should only need to do that when you swap the ECU’s.
Strange as the ECU has not been removed after it started. Only the old battery was completely drained and died in the meantime because of sitting for a while.
But she works!
 

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